William Rider, an apprentice of London, who presented a pair of his own knitting to the Earl of Pembroke. We learn from Sir Thomas Overbury, that yellow stockings were worn by some of the ordinary gentlemen in the country.* Silk garters, puffed in a large knot, were worn below the knees; and knots, or roses, in the shoes. Wilson informs us, that the Countess of Essex, after her divorce, appeared at court "in the habit of a virgin, with her hair pendant almost to her feet:" the Princess Elizabeth, with much more propriety, wore hers in the same manner, when she went to be married to the Prince Palatine. The head of the Countess of Essex seems to be oppressed with ornaments; and she appears to have exposed more of the bosom than was seen in any former period. The ladies began to indulge a strong passion for foreign laces in the reign of James, which rather increased than abated in succeeding generations. The ruff and farthingale still continued to be worn. Yellow starch for ruffs, first invented by the French, and adapted to the sallow complexions of that people, was introduced by Mrs. Turner, a physician's widow, who had a principal hand in poisoning Sir Thomas Overbury. This vain and infamous woman, who went to be hanged in a ruff of that colour,§ helped to support the fashion as long as she was able. It began to decline upon her execution. The ladies, like those of Spain, were banished from court during the reign of James; which was, perhaps, a reason why dress underwent very little alteration during that period. It may not be impertinent to remark, that the lady of Sir Robert Cary, afterward earl of Monmouth, was mistress of the sweet (or perfumed) coffers to Anne of Denmark; an office which answered to that of mistress of the robes at present.|| It appears from portraits, that long coats were worn by boys, till * See Overbury's " Character of a Country Gentleman." + Owen, in one of his epigrams, of which he has borrowed the thought from Juvenal, alludes to this enormous head-dress: "Hoc magis est instar tecti quam tegminis; hoc non See Lord Bacon's "Complete Instructions for a Statesman." See "Memoirs of Robert Cary, earl of Monmouth;" 8vo. 1759. they were seven or eight years of age, or upwards. The dress now worn by the blue-coat boys, in London, was that of the time when the hospital was founded. We are told by Dean Fell, that the famous Dr. Hammond was in long coats when he was sent to Eton school.* When James came to the crown, there was in the wardrobe, in the Tower, a great variety of dresses of our ancient kings; which, to the regret of antiquaries, were soon given away and dispersed.+ Such a collection must have been of much greater use to the studious in venerable antiquity, than a review of the "ragged regiment" in Westminster Abbey.t "Life of Dr. Hammond;" 8vo. p. 2. Fuller's "Worthies," London, p. 193. Tattered effigies of our kings, so called, formerly dressed in royal robes, for funeral processions; after which they were left at the abbey as a customary perquisite. APPENDIX ΤΟ THE REIGN OF JAMES I. FOREIGN PRINCES, ALLIED TO THE KING. CHRISTIAN IV. king of Denmark; a large head. S. Passæus sc. CHRISTIAN IV. with his eldest son Frederic. W. Passaus sc. h. sh. There is a sheet print of him on horseback, which has been altered to Oliver Cromwell. CHRISTIAN IV. king of Denmark. A. Haelwegh. CHRISTIAN IV. &c. Killian. CHRISTIAN IV. &c. Boner. CHRISTIAN IV. richly dressed, with hat and feather. Elstracke. CHRISTIAN IV. holding a truncheon; fine. J. Muller, 1625. CHRISTIAN IV. oval; 4to. " Regna Firmat Pietas." Muller, CHRISTIAN IV. hat and feather; profile, 4to. P. Philip; curious. CHRISTIAN IV. with his eldest son FREDERICK; mezz. R. Dunkarton sc. There is a good portrait of Christian, by Paul Van Somer, at Hampton-court. 1590. Christian IV. brother to Queen Anne, came into England in Elected 1606, where he was treated with all possible magnificence. In king 1614, he made the king a second visit. He was, for the greater part of his reign, engaged in unsuccessful wars with the Swedes and Germans. In 1618, he sent a fleet to the isle of Ceylon, in the East Indies, which returned richly laden with spices. This was the first fleet that ever sailed from Denmark to that part of the world. Ob. 28 Feb. 1648. See more of him towards the end of Bond's dedication of his "Horace" to Prince Henry. FREDERICK III. king of Denmark. B. Bolsvert. FREDERICK III. &c. fol. J. Falck. FREDERICK III. &c. J. Suyderhoef. FREDERICK CHRISTIAN, heir of Norway, &c. R. Elstracke sculpsit; sold by Thomas Jenner, &c. Frederic III. was, in the former part of his reign, embroiled in a disastrous war with the Swedes, who penetrated as far as his capital; which would inevitably have fallen into the enemies' hands, had not the emperor, the kings of England and Poland, and the Dutch, engaged themselves in the quarrel: upon which a peace was concluded near Copenhagen. After this peace, the king, at a diet held at that place, was declared absolute; and a total change in the government ensued, which put an end to an oppressive aristocracy. Ob. 16 Feb. 1670. Christian V. his son, succeeded to the crown by hereditary right. FREDERICUS, comes Palatinus, &c. Crispinus Passaus sc. small 4to. FREDERICUS, &c. Crisp. Passaus, jun. fig. et sc. oval; ornaments; h.sh. FREDERIC, elector Palatine, &c Delaram sc. 4to. FREDERICUS, rex Bohemiæ, &c. Gul. Hondius sc. large h. sh. There are several other good prints of him, particularly an equestrian portrait by Elstracke, which represents him with a globe in his hand; h. sh. FREDERICK, &c. richly dressed. F. Brun, 1627. FREDERICK, &c. large 8vo. left hand on a sword. FREDERICK, &c. with helmet and feathers on a table; right hand on gauntlet, truncheon in left hand; a 2; eight lines, Dutch and Latin; folio; scarce. FREDERICK, &c. in armour; four English verses; names of his children at top. Sold by William Peake; scarce. FREDERICK, &c. in armour. C. V. Dalen sc. by Will. Webb, &c. Sold FREDERICK, &c. in armour; order of the Garter; Latin inscription at bottom; Peter Isselberg; scarce. |