In the beginning of this reign, the excellent, the amiable Lady Jane, who never had an ambitious thought herself, was sacrificed to the ambition of her relations. The simple incidents of her story, without "the tender strokes of art," would compose one of the most pathetic tragedies in the English language. Fox tells us, that the tears burst from his eyes, while he was writing her history in the "Book of Martyrs ;" and the page of that book which contains her sad and untimely catastrophe, has been sullied with the tears of many an honest labourer.* Beheaded on the same day with her husband, the Lord Guildford Dudley, Feb. 12, 1553-4. CLASS XII. PERSONS REMARKABLE FROM ONE REMARKS ON DRESS, &c. I have before observed, that much the same kind of dress which was worn by Henry VIII. in the former part of his reign, is now worn by the yeomen of the guard. It is no less remarkable, that the most conspicuous and distinguishing part of a cardinal's habit, which has been banished from England ever since the death of Cardinal Pole, is also now worn by the lowest order of females, and is called a cardinal. I take the reign of Mary to be the era of ruffs and farthingales,† as they were first brought hither from Spain. Howel tells us in his "Letters," that the Spanish word for a farthingale, literally translated, signifies cover-infant, as if it was intended to conceal pregnancy. It is perhaps of more honourable extraction, and might signify cover-infanta. A blooming virgin in this age seems to have been more solicitous * The "Book of Martyrs," was placed in churches, and other public places, to be read by the people. The first head described in the Catalogue with a ruff, is that of Queen Mary. Class I. to hide her skin, than a rivelled old woman is at present. The very neck was generally concealed; the arms were covered quite to the wrists; the petticoats were worn long, and the head-gear, or coiffure, close; to which was sometimes fastened a light veil, which fell down behind, as if intended occasionally to conceal even the face. In this reign square-toed shoes were in fashion; and the men wore them of so prodigious a breadth, that Bulmer says, if he remembers right there was a proclamation issued that no man should have his shoes above sir inches square at the toes. Fine Spanish needles were first made in England in this reign, by a negro in Cheapside. If I may depend on the authority of engraved portraits, the beard extended and expanded itself more during the short reigns of Edward VI. and Mary, than from the Conquest to that period. Bishop Gardiner has a beard long and streaming like a comet The beard of Cardinal Pole is thick and bushy; but this might possibly be Italian. The patriarchal beard, as I find it in the tapestries of those times, is both long and large; but this seems to have been the invention of the painters who drew the Cartoons. This venerable appendage to the face was formerly greatly regarded. Though learned authors have written for and against almost every thing, I never saw any thing written against the beard. The pamphlets on the "Unloveliness of Love-locks," and the "Mischief of long Hair" made much noise in the kingdom in the reign of Charles I. * There are many acts of provincial council against beards. When used by ecclesiastics, they are always reprobated as the marks of secular vanity.-LORD HAILES. APPENDIX TO THE REIGN OF MARY. FOREIGNERS. FERDINANDUS ALVARES, Toletanus, Dux Alvæ, &c. in a round. In Meteranus's Belgica." "Historia EL DUQUE D'ALVA; in armour; large beard; half sheet. DUX ALVE; in armour. Weest; scarce. FERNAND ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO, &c. wood-cut, with arms; French inscription; half sheet. FERNAND ALVAREZ; curious border, with monkeys; quarto. Ferdinando Alvares, of Toledo, duke of Alva, a name "damned to eternal fame" for his cruelties in the Low Countries, was a most apt and ready instrument for a tyrant. He frequently executed with all the rage of a soldier, what his master had predetermined in cool blood. Philip's counsels and Alva's conduct, which seem to have perfectly coincided, kindled such a war, and produced such a revolt, as is scarcely to be paralleled in the history of mankind. He died, according to Thuanus, in 1582, aged 77 years. MARGARITA AUSTRIACA, Ducissa Parmæ, &c. Van Sichem sc. small h. sh. MARGARITA AUSTRIACA. Pass. MARGARITA AUSTRIACA; on horseback. The Duke of Alva was in the train of Philip when he came into England; as appears from a pamphlet translated from the French, entitled, "New Lights thrown on the History of Mary, queen of England," addressed to David Hume, esq. Margaret of Austria, duchess of Parma and Placentia, and governess of the Low Countries for King Philip, was, together with the Duchess of Lorraine, dispatched into England in this reign. They were commanded to bring back with them, into Flanders, the Princess Elizabeth, between whom and the Duke of Savoy, Philip, for political reasons, had projected a match. The queen, who had been frequently slighted by him, and was probably jealous of the Duchess of Lorraine, with whom he was known to be in love, would neither permit her nor the Duchess of Parma to visit the princess at Hatfield. It was about this time, that the queen, in a fit of rage occasioned by Philip's neglect, tore in pieces his portrait. See the Life of Sir Thomas Pope, p. 104, 105.* HADRIANUS JUNIUS, Hornanus, medicus. Theodore de Bry sc. In Boissard's "Bibliotheca Chalcographica;" small 4to. Almost all the heads in the "Bibliotheca" were engraved by de Bry, for Boissard, an industrious collector of Roman and other antiquities. See an account of the latter in the preface to Montfaucon. HADRIANUS JUNIUS. Larmessin sc. 4to. HADRIANUS JUNIUS; oval, mezz. Faber; scarce. N. B. The one I have is a proof. HADRIANUS JUNIUS; sheet. Visscher. HADRIANUS JUNIUS; half sheet. H. Allardt. Hadrianus Junius, one of the most polite and universal scholars of his age, was a considerable time in England, where he composed several of his learned works; particularly his "Greek and Latin Dictionary," to which he added above six thousand five hundred words, and dedicated it to Edward VI. He was retained as physician to the Duke of Norfolk, and afterward, as Monsieur Bayle informs us, to a great lady. He wrote various books of philology and criticism, notes on ancient authors, a book of poems, &c. in Latin. His "Epithalamium on Philip and Mary" was published in 1554. Ob. 16 June, 1575, Æt. 64. Mr. Warton, at p. 58 of this book, mentions a satirical print of her which I never saw. It represents her naked, wrinkled, and haggard, and several Spaniards sucking her: beneath are legends, intimating that they had sucked her to skin and bone, and enumerating the presents she had lavished upon Philip. Mary was highly incensed at this impudent pasquinade. ELIZABETH BEGAN HER REIGN NOVEMBER 17, 1558. CLASS I. THE QUEEN. QUEEN ELIZABETH. Ant. More p. M. Vandergucht sc. 8vo. In Clarendon's "Hist." ELIZABETHA Regina. Hillyard (or Hilliard) p. Simon f. h. sh. mezz. ELIZABETHA, &c. Hillyard p. Kyte f. 4to. mezz. ELIZABETHA Regina. Hillyard p. Vertue sc. 8vo. This print and the other octavo, engraved after Isaac Oliver, were done for "Camdeni Annales,” by Hearne : the latter is in profile. ELIZABET, &c. Isaac Oliver effigiebat. Crispin Van de Pass inc. whole length; large h. sh. ELIZABETHA, &c. I. Oliver p. h. sh. and 8vo. *Vertue sc. 2 prints; Queen Elizabeth, who reasoned much better upon state-affairs than on works of art, was persuaded that shadows were unnatural in painting, and ordered Isaac Oliver to paint her without any. One striking feature in the queen's face was her high nose. I mention this circumstance, because it is not justly represented in many pictures and prints of her. ELIZABETHA, &c. on her throne; three persons standing by her; a wooden print; date in MS. 1567; small. This was in the collection of Dr. Mead, &c. |