XVII.

I ENTERED WATERFORD over another of my countryman's wooden bridges, considered, like those built by the same man at Derry, Portumna, and Ross, rather as curiosities. The Guide-book says the bridge is eight hundred and thirty-two feet in length, and was built "by Mr. Samuel Cox of America." They might as well say, the road was invented by Mr. M'Adam of the eastern hemisphere. It was evening when I arrived, and the broad quay, lined with lamps, and the reflection of lights on the river, with the vague outline of tall buildings on one side only of the street, struck me as giving promise of a very fine city. Though my morning walk rather disappointed me, the quay is certainly a very spacious and well-constructed one, nearly a mile in length, and devoted partly to a promenade between the street and the river. After rambling about in vain to find anything in the other parts of the town to interest me, I called a car-driver, and asked if his horse was able to draw me to the top of the hill opposite the town. I had made my bargain and mounted the car, when the man turned to me before starting, and asked if I knew the toll over the bridge would be a shilling. Satisfied that I was willing to stick to my bargain with this additional expense, he whipped up, and began to chat away most merrily. I was pleased with the considerateness as well as the gaiety of my Jehu, and we were soon on excellent terms. No Yankee was ever more inquisitive, however; and after discovering by direct questions that I was not from Cork, nor Kilkenny, nor Dublin, but all the way from America, Pat said, "Then it's yer honour has a white skin and spakes like an Irishman, and looks intirely in the face like Mr. Power O'Shay, first-cousin to the mimber." After this compliment Pat could scarce do enough for me. He stopped several gentlemen on the road, somewhat to my annoyance, to ask where was the view, and to tell them I was come all the way from America to see Watherford, and couldn't "for ould Pope's big wall," which wall, by the way, he helped me over, by allowing me to step from the car to his shoulders, climbing up after me, that I might make a ladder of him also from the other side.

The view from the top of the hill quite repaid me for my trespass.

Waterford

is beautiful from this distance, and the banks of the Suir above and below the long bridge, are very bold and striking. The broad bosom of the river was covered with large vessels, steamers, and small sailing-craft; the quay was thronged with pedestrians and vehicles, the sun shone brightly, and the scene altogether, with its background of fine hills, was beautiful. There is said to be from twenty to sixty-five feet of water in the Suir at low tide, and vessels of eight hundred tons may come

up close to the quay, a circumstance which has been found very favourable for the debarcation of cavalry and military stores. Waterford has always, from this and other reasons, been an important port of Ireland. Its ancient name was Cuan-naFrioth, or Haven of the Sun. It was aftewards called Gleann-na-Gleodh, or Valley of Lamentation, from the tremendous conflicts between the Irish and the Danes. By old Irish authors, it is frequently named, from its shape, the Port of the Thigh. Its historical record states that it was founded in 155, but made a considerable town under Sitric in 853. It was still inhabited by the Danes in 1171, the time of King Henry's invasion. There are other historical events connected with King John, Richard II., (who remained nine months at Waterford to assuage his grief for the death of Queen Anne,) the Desmonds, &c. &c. Its great feature to antiquarians, however, is REGINALD'S TOWER, a fine old remnant of Danish architecture, standing near the lower end of the quay. It was built by Reginald, son of Imar, in 1003. In 1171 it was held as a fortress by Strongbow; in 1463 a mart was established in it; and in 1819 it was partly rebuilt in its original form, and appropriated to the police establishment. Besides these various uses, it has been used as a prison. After the successful storming of the town by the English forces of Strongbow, led on by the redoubtable Raymond le Gros, in 1171, when the city was plundered, and all the inhabitants found in arms were put to the sword, Reginald, Prince of the Danes, and Malachy O'Faelan, Prince of the Decies, with several other chiefs who had confederated to resist the invaders, were imprisoned here after they were condemned to death. They were saved, however, by the intercession of Dermot MacMurrogh, who, with many other Welsh and English gentlemen, came to Waterford to be present at the marriage of Earl Strongbow with Eva, the King of Leinster's daughter.

I walked back over my fellow-townsman's "bridge of American oak," enjoying very much the beauty of the banks of the river on the side opposite the town: with the exception of the banks of the Suir, however, the neighbourhood of Waterford looked bleak and uninviting. The hotel was but indifferent, and I was not sorry to curtail my stay somewhat, and hurry on by the first conveyance towards Lismore. The views of LISMORE CASTLE, which have been taken always from the most favourable points, prepare a disappointment for the traveller who chances to approach it first from the side toward the town, the insignificant buildings of which shoulder it rather too closely. From all other points, however, it is a most striking and noble object, and justifies its reputation as one of the first of the noble residences and demesnes of Ireland. Its position, overhanging the Blackwater, is very commanding; its gardens, lawns, and walks are laid out with exquisite taste; its antique towers and its modern habitableness are beautifully harmonised; indeed, it is a spot which one's heart aches to leave-capable, to the imagination at least, of all that a

VOL. I.

T T

residence can do for the happiness of the most luxurious. This castle was the property of Sir Walter Raleigh, at whose death it was forfeited, and purchased by the ancestor of the Duke of Devonshire. The town of Lismore adds to this historic interest the fact that it was the birthplace of Boyle and Congreve. "Lismore Castle," says Ritchie, "was founded on the ruins of an abbey by King John, in the year 1185. After being destroyed by the Irish, and undergoing various other fortunes, it was rebuilt, and became an episcopal residence; till at length, in 1589, it passed with the rest of the manor to Sir Walter Raleigh, on consideration of a yearly rent of £13. 6s. 8d., and was afterwards sold by him to the Earl of Cork. In 1626, the famous Robert Boyle was born within its walls. In the rebellion of 1641, it withstood successfully a siege by five thousand Irish, under Sir Richard Beling. On this occasion it was defended by Lord Broghill, the earl's third son, whose letter to his father is well known, but still worth reprinting here.

"I have sent out my quarter-master to know the posture of the enemy; they were, as I am informed by those who were in the action, five thousand strong, and well armed, and that they intend to attack Lismore. When I have received certain intelligence, if I am a third part of their number I will meet them to-morrow morning, and give them one blow before they besiege us; if their number be such that it will be more folly than valour, I will make good this place which I am in.

"I tried one of the ordnances made at the forge, and it held with a pound charge; so that I will plant it upon the terrace over the river. My lord, fear nothing for Lismore; for if it be lost, it shall be with the life of him who begs your lordship's blessing, and styles himself your lordship's most humble, most obliged, and most dutiful son and servant,

"BROGHILL.'

"Two years after, the castle was attacked again by a still greater fore, and again remained triumphant; but in 1645, it was at length taken by Lord Castlehaven. The defenders on this occasion were Major Power, and a hundred of the earl's tenants, who are said to have been allowed honourable terms of capitulation, after expending all their powder, and killing five hundred of the enemy. This sounds like one of Napoleon's bulletins.

"From the Boyle family, Lismore passed into that of Cavendish, in 1748, by the marriage of Lady Charlotte Boyle, daughter of the fourth Earl of Cork, to the fourth Duke of Devonshire. The present Duke has done much to improve and beautify the place, but what is of still more consequence, he is said to be the best of the very few good landlords in Ireland.

"This fortress covered, originally, a considerable space of ground, as may be