and easily effected: the deepening of the channel in some places-the placing of beacons and buoys, so essential in a river liable to great floods, and consequently of such variable width and depth-the erection of piers and landing-places-the formation of a complete system of roads to its banks from the surrounding country and the neighbouring towns and villages. But above all, and without which all else is useless or impracticable, the entire navigation should be placed under the control of an efficient and active body, responsible for its maintenance in a perfect and available condition, who should be guided in their management, not by their desire of profit, but solely with the view of rendering the river as useful and accessible as possible to the public." XV. THE Shannon below Limerick is a broad and noble stream, but the nakedness of the shores deprived it of all charm for me. It is besides flat and sterile-looking; and after losing sight of the fine ruins of Carrig-o-Gonnell, I found the passage wearisome enough till we reached the domain of the great benefactor of this part of the country, Lord Monteagle, and began to near my destination at Tarbert. The Knight of Kerry has a fine place in this neighbourhood on the left bank of the river, and these two form oases in the desert. The SHANNON NEAR TARBERT assumes the look of an estuary, and the view here is altogether finer than farther up. I confess to great disappointment in the Shannon however, malgré the occasional beauties at and above Limerick my expectations were too highly raised. Moore's poem of St. Senanus, (whose "Sacred Isle" is just below Tarbert,) and Sir Aubrey de Vere's elegant sonnet, give a romance to the Shannon, which paints it, in the fancy, too flatteringly. "River of billows! to whose mighty heart The tide-wave rushes of the Atlantic sea- From their lone mountain-cradles, wild and free, Nursed with the fawns, lulled by the wood-larks' glee, And cushat's hymeneal song apart!— River of chieftains, whose baronial halls River of dark mementoes-must I close My lips with Limerick's wrongs-with Aughrim's woes?" The steamer passes Scattery Island after leaving Tarbert, and a good view is obtained of this poetical spot, which is graced with a round tower, one hundred and twenty feet high, and various ecclesiastical ruins. St. Senanus is said to have established a place of worship here before the arrival of St. Patrick, and it is to this day a place of Catholic pilgrimage. "It is recorded in the annals of Munster, that in the year 975, Brian Boroihme recovered this island from the Danes; it also appears that Queen Elizabeth granted it to the mayor and corporation of Limerick and their successors, who lately established their right thereto by a suit at law. The present possessor, a gentleman of taste, has fitted up a handsome lodge, and added many improvements." A very interesting book, called Two Months at Kilkee, written by "Mary John Knott," and embellished with some clever drawings, gives an excellent account of this little watering-place, and we must be indebted to it for a description of the views taken by the artist on this coast. "KILKEE, or Kilqui, is situated at Moore Bay, on the western coast of Ireland, in the county of Clare, about fifty English miles from Limerick, one hundred and seventy from Dublin, and twenty-five from Ennis, and its shore is washed by the Atlantic. Comparatively but a few years since it was only known as the residence of fishermen, whose habitations formed the row of cottages now called 'Old Kilkee.' At present there are upwards of one hundred comfortable houses and lodges for the accommodation of visitors, independent of the cottages in which the natives reside. Since that period the town has been gradually rising into importance, and it is probable will ere long, from the safety of its strand, and other peculiar circumstances, be one of the most desirable watering-places on the coast. "The town, which commands a fine view of the bay, is built close to the sea, and assumes a semicircular form from the shape of the strand, which presents a smooth, white, sandy surface of above half a mile in length, where the invalid can, without fatigue or interruption, enjoy the exhilarating sea-breeze and surrounding scenery. The principal street runs nearly from one end of the village to the other; these extend to the strand, and at every few steps afford a view of the Atlantic wave dashing into foam against the cliffs which circumscribe its power, and the rocks of Duggana, which run nearly across the bay. Some of the houses at the 'west end' of the town, as well as a few in the village, are modern, with sufficient accommodation (including stabling and coach-houses) for the family of a nobleman VOL. I. G G or gentleman of fortune; and every gradation can be had, down to a cottage with a parlour, two small bed-rooms, and kitchen, the rent varying according to the accommodation and demand. A few of the largest, fully furnished, pay from £15 to £20 per month; but the average for comfortable, good lodges is from £6 to £8, and the smallest from £3 to £4, including a plentiful supply of milk, potatoes, and turf, according to the custom of the place. One circumstance which strongly recommends this place is the prevalence of cleanliness, for which the houses, beds, and natives are remarkable. The walls of several new lodges are now built, and I am informed that upwards of thirty are in progress. It is however evident, that many of the people, anxious to possess a lodge and reap the summer fruits, have overbuilt themselves, to use their own words. A large Roman Catholic chapel has been lately erected near the road: the Protestant place of worship is but temporarily fitted up at the end of the Marine Parade. It is intended to build a handsome edifice for this purpose in the centre of the new square, at the west end. The surrounding country presents a very bleak aspect, without a tree, shrub, or garden-flower to enliven its surface. A number of poor cabins diversify the scene from the village to the hilly distance, to the extreme point of which the hand of man has carried cultivation. "An extensive bog reaches to the skirts of the town, and affords a plentiful supply of fuel at a very low rate, which confers an incalculable benefit on the inhabitants: a cheerful fire generally enlivens the hearth of the poorest cottage. There are three hotels or boarding-houses in the town, where board and lodging are provided for about twenty-five shillings per week: tolerably well-appointed jauntingcars are now amongst the advantages which this town affords. There are two chalybeate spas in and near Kilkee, which, it is said, possess properties similar to the celebrated waters of Castle Connell. One of them is situated, as already mentioned, about a mile distant; the other is adjoining the town, but from its present neglected state and difficulty of approach, we believe it is little frequented by strangers. These obstacles might, however, be removed at a trifling expense, if a path were made from the road along the stream, and the spa covered in and placed under the care of some deserving poor person, who, by a small allowance from visitors, might be able to gain something towards a livelihood: these healing waters could be made both attractive and useful to the invalid visitors of Kilkee. "Near to this spot the antiquarian may gratify his taste by viewing a fine old Danish fort, the most perfect in this neighbourhood, where they may be said to abound. It lies behind the town, on a little hill, and has a thick bank thrown up all round, of about seven hundred feet in circumference: the moat or ditch is about twenty-five feet wide, the centre gradually rises from sixteen to twenty feet, the summit is about three hundred feet in circumference, and nearly level. On the south side are two rather small openings, which lead to subterraneous chambers, and occupy the interior of the centre elevation: they are said to be extensive. The neighbourhood was thrown into consternation some time since by a ventriloquist, who caused sounds of distress and anguish apparently to proceed from these vaults. If the apertures were enlarged, it might afford an inducement to the curious inquirer to descend and explore the probable storehouses of the northern depredators. The lads of the village are now the chief visitors of this antique circle. One of our party was informed by a youth that it was a fine place to dry clothes in, for if all the rogues in the county Clare came, they could not steal them; that out of a joke some of them tried, but could not touch one, because of the spirits or ghosts which are said to frequent it; also that some time since the landlord wished to have the mound removed, but could not get the men to work at it, as they got afraid.' If it were really the landlord's intention to have it removed, we need not be surprised at the result, as a disposition prevails in most places amongst the country people not to level their favourite old circles. "The strand this morning presented an unusual scene of bustle. 'Spring-tides returned, and Fortune smiled; the bay Men and women were to be seen in all directions removing seaweed which they had cut from the rocks, and brought to the shore in canoes, together with large quantities of the long-weed, which they tied together in great bundles, and which floated in with the tide, propelling with them all that was loose between them and the shore. This scene brought to our recollection Capt. Cooke's description of the inhabitants of Otaheite. The women appeared quite as active as the men in leaping in and out of the canoes, standing in the sea up to their waists, and in that state filling carts and creels, which were placed contiguous to the sea to receive the loadings. There is one kind on which they set the highest value; it consists of many leaves, some of them three yards long, attached to a stalk of considerable strength: this they use for manuring potato-ground, the soil here being particularly poor and sterile. This was a scene of enjoyment to the young natives, especially the little girls, who, with their frocks drawn up, and neatly fastened round their waists to keep them dry, ran in and out of the water like amphibious creatures: to young and old it appeared like the joyous scene of a harvest-home. "We were much amused in observing the dexterity of about a dozen young girls, who went to assist in pushing off a canoe with two men in it, who had long laboured without success to get clear of the land, owing to the resistance of the waves. With a considerable effort the little folks pushed it off; but whilst the men were congratulating themselves on getting clear of the land, and preparing to row away, the lighthearted lasses, bent on diversion, watched the returning wave, and archly uniting their efforts, drew the canoe and its cargo on dry land, and ran away highly delighted. "The day being unusually fine, induced us to take an excursion on the water; but here, as in some other bathing-places, much cannot be said of boat-accommodation. The natives use canoes for fishing, which are the only description of boat to be found along this coast. About twenty of these comprise the fishing-establishment at Kilkee: they are composed of a frame of light timber or strong wickerwork, covered with sailcloth, rendered waterproof with pitch and tar. The best kinds have slight timber hoops to support the cloth, which is an improvement. A few years since they were covered with horse and cow-hides, after the custom of the ancient Irish. These little vessels have neither keel nor rudder; they are particularly calculated to skim over the surface of the waves, and pass safely amongst the rocks on this dangerous shore, where a timber-boat might be dashed to pieces. The expert rowers, with a light paddle or oar in each hand, glide very swiftly over the waves, and turn them with great dexterity. It is surprising at times to see them going along shore; when a breaker approaches that would fill the canoe over its side, they instantly turn the head, which from its being elevated, enables them to ride over in safety, and as quickly return to their course: they are considered much safer when well managed than timber boats of the same size. The weight of the latter would preclude their general use along the coast; as where there are not any sheltered harbours, the fishermen on landing have to carry their canoes above the reach of the When the sail-cloth happens to be torn, it is most expeditiously repaired; a sod of lighted turf is held near the rent until the pitch is melted, a fresh piece is stuck on the aperture, and the canoe is immediately launched; the water hardens the cement, and without further ceremony the fishermen jump in and row off." waves. The fair authoress gives an equally interesting account of her visit to the NATURAL BRIDGES near KILKEE. "After a residence of seven weeks, an excursion was planned to visit the unfrequented village and bay of Ross, near Loof-Head, whose natural bridges of rock, over an inlet of the Atlantic, are considered amongst the greatest curiosities on this romantic coast; and finding my health and strength so much recruited, that instead of being unable to go a mile in a jaunting-car without feeling quite exhausted, I undertook a ride of twenty-four miles. Nothing worthy of note occurred, with the exception of an occasional caution from our careful driver, of Will you be plazed to howld fast,' or having to get occasionally off the car in passing over sundry hollows in the road; otherwise we might have found ourselves on the ground without the trouble of alighting. On stopping to inquire the shortest path to the Bridges,' the good-countenanced natives flocked around us; but as they could not speak English, we were at a loss |