evening. This decided step naturally rather diminished the popularity of the English amongst the Cubans. During the Lopez troubles, the Spaniards regarded old England as one of their firmest and most powerful allies, and almost conceived that the only object she had in retaining a squadron in the vicinity of their coasts, was for the purpose of protecting them against the republican spirit of annexation which had so disagreeably developed itself in the neighbouring continent. Their eyes by this decided step were somewhat roughly opened to the true state of the case, and like a criminal who, after pleasant nocturnal visions, awakes to a true consciousness of his real position, their guilty souls became suddenly and unpleasantly aware that there were such things as truth, and the fulfilment of solemn engagements, and that there was a power which would protect and enforce both.

'My captain took compassion on me, and allowed me about half-past eleven o'clock to go ashore with a friend of his, who was to take me to the consul's, where I was to endeavour to obtain a permit; in case of failure, I was on my parole to return to the steamer, as the captain was liable to be fined if he had suffered me to land without the usual forms having been complied with. I rejoiced at the hopes of emancipation, and cheerfully stepped into the little boat, with a white awning and graceful sail, which was to convey me to the much desired terra firma. Mr. Wolcott (my guide) and myself, after walking along a hot sandy road for a few paces, stepped into a volanté, and began to thread

the narrow and intricate mazes of the city of Havana. Our vehicle was singular and unique, and demands a description. Imagine a body something like that of a Hansom cab,-only lighter,-- suspended on heavy leathern springs, attached to an axletree some distance behind it, on which revolve two enormous wheels, six feet in diameter, drawn by a comical little horse, one mass of harness, his tail carefully plaited and stored away, like a loop on one flank, and a heavy old-fashioned saddle on his back, bestridden by a large negro in enormous boots,—and you will have a picture before you of the ordinary vehicle used in Havana, and in fact the only one, I may safely say, which the Spaniards or natives ever employ. A kind of blind, rolled up in cool weather at the top of the hood, and drawn down over the face during the heat of the day, protects from the rays of the sun. A volanté is by no means an uncomfortable vehicle; it is a large lounging kind of a conveyance, where you may loll at ease, and enjoy the otium cum dignitate of existence.

'We found on inquiry at the consul's house that he was out, but supposed to be at his son's office; thither we accordingly repaired, and were fortunate enough this time in nailing our man. Mr. Crawford I found a gentlemanly middle-aged man; he had never received or heard anything of the letter I had sent ashore for him in the morning; but on my stating my case to him, wrote a letter immediately to the secretary to the captaingeneral, praying him, in excellent Spanish, to give permission to Lieutenant George Ranken, of the Cuerpo

del Ingenieri,' to land on the soil of Cuba. Armed with this important document, I again started forth with the obliging Wolcott, and found myself within a few minutes sitting in the palace of the captain-general with a Spanish agent of Wolcott's, waiting in painful suspense for the decision of the secretary. That functionary was busily engaged, and my letter could not for some time be taken up to him. Instantly upon receiving it, however, he gave orders that a free permit should be given me; and, elated with success, I hastened to the amiable Wolcott, and placed the scrawl of pardon in his honest palm. I found my way to my hotel, where I found one of my American friends, and took a walk with him through the streets, visiting the Cathedral and the Tacon Theatre.

The appearance of the city is very peculiar and picturesque; the houses are solidly built, but seldom more than one storey high; they have no windows, the apertures into which, in northern climes, these taxed articles of luxury are fitted, are here filled with formidable, burglar-defying, iron bars, and thick, dark, cool-looking Venetian blinds, which cast a refreshing shade over the whole interior of the apartments. The rooms are fitted up in the most simple and unostentatious manner; a side-board, table, and a few chairs being generally the only furniture.

'Señoritas might be seen at ease, reclining on rocking chairs, lolling out the day or thinking of their evening drive on the Paseo. Under an archway at the side of the house, or in a quadrangular courtyard attached to

it, might be seen the family volanté. Negresses were smoking cigarettes or pipes, and sturdy, naked, black little urchins running about and basking in the sun; not afraid of their complexions, certainly.

'My friend and I found our way to the cathedral,—a cathedral consecrated by the dust of the great discoverer of America. The ashes of Columbus are deposited beneath a mean marble slab, near the altar of the most tawdry and unsubstantial Roman Catholic church I have

ever seen.

'A small bas-relief, by a native of Cuba, of his head, and an inscription, equally unworthy of the man or the country which produced him, are all that assist, or rather destroy, the sensations of the traveller, when he stands over the remains of this great man. The altar, and pulpit near, are from Rome.

'The exterior of the cathedral, though possessing no architectural merits, is yet picturesque and interesting from its venerable greyness. An old pile, over which the hand of time has passed, not to destroy, but to soften and improve,--is at all times a pleasing and interesting object. It is regarded with almost a religious reverence, and it deserves to be so.

'To Americans, these time-worn grey walls must possess a peculiar charm, after the sharp regular lines which distinguish their rapidly produced cities and buildings, which start into life, and, I might almost say, topple over with the same rapidity as fairy card palaces, such as delighted our younger days.'

CHAPTER IX.

HAVANA-DE RAMOS, PALM-SUNDAY—A DINNER WITH THE ENGLISH CONSUL-RETURN TO MONTREAL.

'March 20th.

HIS is the great day for pleasure and amusement

THIS

in Havana. The weather was lovely; the air soft and delightful. I sallied out immediately after breakfast, and made for the cathedral, whither, it was rumoured, the captain-general, after entertaining most of the public functionaries at breakfast, was to proceed, attended by his guards.

The cathedral was decorated with real legitimate palm leaves, plaited most tastefully and prettily, laid upon the altar, and other conspicuous places. When I arrived, the service had evidently commenced some time. I stole along a side aisle, and reached a point whence I could clearly and easily discern the features of that redoubted hidalgo, the "Capitan-General.” He wore a blue uniform, covered with stars and orders. He had well-cut, commanding features, with a grave, gentlemanly, proud expression, and stood nearly six feet high. He appeared to pay great attention to the service. Almost all the Captains-general of Cuba have