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accounts have no doubt been publish- minute inspection of this very roman. ed, I shall now continue my personal tic castle, which gave me great pleasure (not, as in law language, opposed to indeed. In a few days I availed myreal) narrative. I shall only add, that self of a passage-boat which was going it seemed perfectly to be understood to Mayence, and was quite enraptured on both sides, that no enemy was to with the view on all sides. The beaube devoured, till the battle was com- tiful little islands—theruined convents pletely at an end. Dangerous indeed and castles so tastefully perched on it would have been for him who broke the surrounding heights--the constant through this rule to satisfy his cra- succession of vineyards now laden with vings, as in the moment of victory he harvest—all delighted me. Still, howwould assuredly have been surround- ever, I was out of humour. Our boat ed and torn to pieces by his infuriated had a cargo of those low beer-drinking foes. The following night, however, miscreants called German students, presented a shocking spectacle. Imagine who, to strangers, and I am sure to to yourself, my gentle reader, about every body but themselves, are most 120,000,000 warriors, maddened with disagreeable and disgusting fellows. hunger, let loose on such a banquet. Their ridiculous dress, longl-sy hair, But I shall not attempt a description. bravado manners, and real as well as Suffice it to say, that, as might have affected dirtiness, not to mention their been expected, many paid the penalty constant songs and noisy mirth, quite of their voraciousness. I suffered in put me out of sorts. Some of our a slighter degree ; and was glad to species who attended them took them avail myself of the vicinity of the Selte as their model, and succeeded in mazer waters, which are only about thirty king themselves equally disagreeable. miles from Coblentz. I forgot to say, In addition to this annoyance, Rhethat on the night of the engagement, nish wines, and perhaps also the water, a duel took place in presence of the I found did not well agree with my whole army, between two Austrian stomach ; and no inconsiderable anHamsters,* as if they had not al- noyance, I soon experienced. They ready had enough of fighting. We seemed, however, to have exactly the waited till the one dispatched the other, same effect upon every Englishman I and then we instantly, by a drum- saw, so I was not singular. A little head court-martial, condemned the brandy soon, however, put me all to victor to death. This was absolutely rights; and by the time I reached necessary with those gentry, as they Strasbourg, I was perfectly well again, must always be fighting with some and able to do ample justice to her body. They are the very Irish of Splendid Pies ! + I attended high mass R-ts.
in the great Cathedral of Strasbourg, In a few days I was as well as ever. and was surprised and pleased at the My wounds were only flesh ones. sight of 10,000 soldiers, in review orMy teeth soon recovered their edge. der, drawn up within its walls. It The stiffness left my jaws, and I was was tiresome enough work mounting able again to admire the beauties of to the top of the spire, (which I asa the surrounding scenery..
certained, by the steps I took, to be The town of Coblentz is situated at exactly 490 feet high,
Strasbourg meathe junction of the Rhine and the Mo- sure ; and this is exactly eight feet selle. Here the majestic Rhine gently higher than St Peter's at Rome,) but flows along in all its grandeur, sepa- I made it out, notwithstanding the rating the town from the noble fort- sulky looks of the jackanapes who ress of Ehrenbreitstein. I crossed over lives at the top. Nothing can surthe bridge of boats, and made a most pass the beauty of the view from this
The Mus Cricatus of Linnæus. The life of a Hamster is divided between eat. ing and fighting. He attacks man and every other animal, and will never let go his hold till he be beaten to pieces. They abound chiefly in Austria and Silesia, but are to be found in almost every part of Germany. Their holes are very commodious, and are laid out with great ingenuity.- Vide Buffon, Sultzer's Travels, &c._ED.
+ Les patės de Strasbourg, composed of gibier of every kind, and which are sometimes six feet in length, are highly celebrated !-EDITOR.
Cathedral. At your feet you have the Rome, the hostler having assured me ancient town, with all its regular for that he would remain for some time. I tifications and outworks-the majestic did so, as I found it much quieter and Rhine, with its bridge of boats, and cooler than the hotel “ La ville de ruined Gothic bridge, sublime in its Lyon,” which was overcrowded. In decay- and as far as the eye can reach the morning, I thought my friends you have an exceedingly rich coun- were merely going a short drive, so I try, everywhere speckled with towns, kept my seat. We, however, travelled and fertilized by luxuriant streams. on till night, when I heard we were I made a point of visiting my vene
bound for London ; but as my comrable friend, the old Comte de Stras- panions were very agreeable, I thought bourg, who, unchanged in the rolling i might as well accompany them the on of centuries, lies in his glass coffin, whole way. They seemed to be anto all appearance in the same freshness noyed at every post-house with their of health and vigour in which, when passports, &c.; I was never even askmyself a very young man, I saw him ed about the matter. The custommany hundred years ago*_his couna house gentry, in their searches, to be tess, his son, and his daughter, keep sure, occasionally gave me a little him company, each in their separate trouble, but I was soon up to their place of repose. Alas, alas ! the sight tricks. We had an avant-courier conmade me weep. It is a sad and melan- stantly galloping before us, and we choly thing to contemplate the illus- travelled with such expedition that trious dead-and, after the lapse of we reached London in five days; for centuries, to have the friends of your my fellow-travellers were idle young life, with whom you have spent so men of fortune, who are of course almany happy hours, conjured up bee ways in the greatest hurry for the end fore you, in the same actual form- of a journey, because they don't know nay, even dress and armour-in which what to make of themselves when it is you have known them so well. How over. humbling for my noble friends, if, I had not then an opportunity of like me, a poor persecuted shade, they seeing Paris, as we only changed hornow hover about their still princely ses in it. I have since, however, spent remains! Perhaps, too, the treacherous many months there, and
ave always Louis now baunts the scene of his been very much pleased with every perfidy, where, in the middle of a thing I saw, particularly the Cataa profound peace, regardless of all the combs, which were my favourite honour of a king, he basely seized up. lounge. When last in Paris, I made on the unsuspecting city.
a narrow escape with my life, as I It was in this town, at M. Schep tumbled headlong into a cask of branflin's collection, that, without at all dy. I, however, managed to scramknowing what I was nibbling at, I ble out, with the assistance of a bit of tasted a mummy, and, ignorant as I cord, which happened to be hanging was, I may safely say it did not at all over its side, and which my friend take my fancy. It had such a strange, pushed in to me. I was little the bitter, dusty taste; and then the resiny worse of my ducking; for, as soon as kind of stuff stuck so about my teeth I got out, I was set a-laughing by his as to be very annoying and, indeed, telling me how to spell brandy, in both as soon as I ascertained what it was, French and English, in three letters, I had strange misgivings. How hor- viz. “ B. R. and Y.” and “0. D. v." rible the idea of its real proprietor bem In Paris, I have always been much ing perhaps the witness of my impi- annoyed at the quantities of fellows of
all kinds, who constantly call and A few days afterwards, I was rather waste all one's mornings. unexpectedly stopped in my tour. friend Tillotson was quite right in For a night I had taken up my resie what he used to say as to visiting ; dence in the carriage of a young Eng- and I see his grandson, who, I belishman, who that day arrived from lieve, was afterwards Archbishop of
I understand the venerable Count died about the year 1519. The glass coffins are still shewn. I saw them a few years ago.--EDITOR.
+ Louis XIV., I find, seized upon Strasbourg in 1631, in the middle of a profound peace.
Canterbury, has given the same idea it is necessary to be always enacting in his Sermons, almost indeed in his something. grandsire's words :-" The great de- It is curious, indeed, how fashion sign,” said he, "of most people in vie should be every thing in the great sits, is not to better one another, but city. A lady could not possibly vento spy and make faults, and not to ture to see her dearest friend on earth, mend them; toget time off their hands; or even her own sister, if she happene to shew their fine clothes, and to re- ed to live in rather an unfashionable commend themselves to the mutual part of the town. By so doing, she contempt of one another by a plentiful would expose herself to her own footimpertinence.'
men, who very properly would lose all În London I made a point, as a respect for her, and I suppose instante stranger, of going everywhere, and ly leave her service, as, poor fellows, was certainly much delighted with they have a rank in life to keep up!! every thing. I must confess, how- John Bull certainly gives himself many ever, that I thought all the acting at airs, to say the least of it. After rethe Opera and Theatres, and all the ceiving the greatest kindness and hose eloquence of the Houses of Parliament, pitality from you in Scotland, and pere as nothing in comparison of what I haps staying for months in your house, saw and tasted at the East India and he will cut you dead in London. Í London Docks. When I was in the remember once meeting with such a House of Lords, a companion whis- return, but took it, of course, very pered to me, that he had heard an act coolly. Next day, when I was arm in read, offering a reward of L.10,000 arm with — I happened again for a male tortoise-shell cat. This to meet my quondam friend, who ima I believe, indeed, is a very safe offer, mediately rushed up to me.-I, howfor such a thing was never heard ever, turned on my tail, and did not of.t And it is certainly as much worth know him.-Fashion is an odd thing their while as making an act that I after all. It is not rank which will do. should never have more than six dish- I have seen many a spendthrift young es of meat at my dinner, or that I commoner cut his uncle the duke; should not be buried in linen above and being a duchess by no means will twenty shillings Scots value per ell, ensure admittance at Almack's.although I wished it particularly, and I thank my stars, I am not fashionable, could well afford to pay for it. There and am always happy to see my was, however, one restrictive act, friends! which had sense in it; and the hus- There are certainly many luxuries bands of the present day would, I dare to be had in both of the rival capitals say, give their ears that it were still of Britain and of France; but, in main force, whatever the dress-makers king a fair estimate of their comparamight think of it. But many of their tive merits, the prize of honour, I fear, acts of Parliament are silly enough- must be adjudged to the latter. Where, as they must be; for they don't like in London, for instance, can we find to be thought idle, and imagine that such a Paradise as Les Bains Chinois,
• Tillotson's Sermons, Sermon xlvii.-EDITOR,
+ All the old ladies whom I have consulted on this point assure me that such a thing as a male tortoise-shell cat was never heard of.
# By act 5th of Queen Mary, c. 25, it is devised and ordained, “ that na arch-bishops, bishops, nor earles, have at his meate bot aucht dishes of meate ; nor na lord abbot, lorde prior, or deane, have at his meate but sex dishes of meate ; nor rra baronne nor frecholder have bot foure dishes of meate at his messe; nor na burges, nor uther substantious man, spiritual nor temporal, sall have at his meate bot three dishes, and bot ane kind of meate in every dishe.”
Many different acts were passed in Scotland relative to burying in linen. But probably neither the Dinner act nor any of the Burying acts were passed expressly to annoy our friend.
The other act alluded to must be the 23d of James VI. of Scotland, c. 25, which declares, sect. 13, “ that the fashion of clothes now presently used bee not changed by men or women, and the wearers thereof, under the paine of forefaultic of the clothes, and L.100 to be paid by the wearers, and as much by the makers of the said clothes, toties quotics."
with its Naples soap, almond paste, hordles of things, which I am sure eau de Cologne, hot Aannels, arma could be of little use to any of our chairs, and Maintenon cutlets !!! species. Thimbles, rings, bracelets,
I was persuaded, soon after reach- brooches, cork-serews, shillings, guiing London, to go down to Essex for neas, &c. I found in abundance; but a few days, to pay a visit to an old what surprised me most was a gold friend. When I arrived at his house, watch, chain, and seals. I could not which I think they called Waltham help thinking what mischievous aniAbbey, I was sorry to receive the me- mals we were, when not one article of lancholy accounts that he had been the whole heap could ever be of the devoured, and that, if I did not in smallest use to any of us. I deterstantly take myself off, I should be mined, however, that if possible they dealt with in the same manner. The should not be all lost. Ever since Í truth was, that a famine had arisen; and had come to this country, I had obit is well known, on those occasions, served a pair of disconsolate lovers, as necessity has no law, that the strong- who seemed most attached to each er kills the weaker. Day after day the other. To my joy, the happy day for combat is renewed, till at last all ex- their union was at last fixed. The cept one are destroyed, and he is then bride was uncommonly modest-lookobliged to decamp, or eat himself up, ing, and from the first I had taken a as he likes best. It is in this way that great fancy for her. I resolved to make castles, houses, &c. which have been her a wedding present; and accordinglong infested by us, are so suddenly ly, the night previous to her marriage, entirely freed from our presence. Aris- I laid the watch, a couple of rings, and totle of old, and many others of our a brooch, at her bed-side. As I was historians, I find, ascribe our sudden obliged to go to town next day on budisappearance to heavy rains ; but that siness, I could not stay to see how my is a complete mistake. We have sense present was received; but I fear the enough to keep at home in wet wea- girl would have much hesitation in ta. ther. The plain truth is, when we can king them from a stranger. get nothing else for love or money, we At a friend's house, in Berkeley eat each other.*
Square, where I met a distinguished I amused myself in making an ex party, a scene took place, just such as cursion to Epping Forest, till I thought Pope describes,the civil war at my late friend's habitation might have proceeded far enough Tastes, for his friend, of fowl and fish;
Our courtier walks from dish to dish; for my presence to be useful. In the
** That jelly's rich, that malmsey's healing, Forest, one day, I had the luck to kill Pray dip your whiskers and your tail in. one of those troublesome reptiles—a Was ever such a happy swain ? Tom-Cat. I believe, however, it was a He stuffs, and swills, and stuffs again. house one. After a hard day's hunting " I'm quite ashamed 'Tis mighty rude his highness made too free at a Valerian To eat so much ; but all's so good! party.t I watched my opportunity, I have a thousand thanks to give ;. and soon put an effectual end to his My lord alone knows how to live.”caterwauling. When I returned to the No sooner said, but from the hall Abbey, I found I was in the best pose
Rush chaplain, butler, dogs, and all : sible time—the garrison being reduced
“A R-t, a R-t! clap to the door!"to about a dozen, and they so weaken- I, however, made good my exit, and ed and tired out with the constant was nothing the worse of a practical worrying work they had had, that I warning to be more cautious in fuwas myself a complete match for any ture. two of them. In a few days their num- Ever since I had heard the story in ber was only four, and in other two Leith, about our forces driving the days I was sole lord and master. AmuDutch out of the Isle of France, I had sing myself in going through my do- had a vast desire to visit it; and I acminions, I was surprised to find such cordingly set about looking for a vese
• Buffon, iv. p. 278.Editor.
+ The well-known favourite delicacy of cats, and which is of a very intoxicating na. ture...EDITOR.
sel for that quarter, which was easily not for a moment have scrupled to to be found in London. Our party have eat through the planks, and sunk was most pleasant, and I doubt not we
the ship. should have had a most agreeable voy- This the Captain seemed quite aware age; but I was always too undecided, of, as the work of destruction had more and too easily persuaded to change my than once been commenced, and he plans. Here, to be sure, it was almost now never for a second allowed us to worth my while to do so, and to give want for any thing. Every meal was up my intended voyage. In the Chops the same, and we were most punctual of the Channel, seeing a Swede with in our attendance, as soon as the bell a signal of distress, we brought to. A sounded. Once, indeed, they avoided boat came alongside, and an officer and this signal, and attempted to dine on some seamen got up to beg assistance, deck; but we convinced them we were as they said they were nearly devour- not to be trifled with ! I soon became ed by R-ts. A couple of our boys sick tired of this kind of work, and came along with them, and gave us was most happy when we got within such a laughable account of how they sight of the Norsunda Lights. In case carried on matters, that I could not of accidents, I thought it as well to be resist the temptation of going on board. off by the first pilot boat; but I beMy conscience ! what a sight I did see! lieve there was no danger, as the vesThe Captain and crew were in complete sel was ordered to the quarantine stasubjection, and dared not attack one of tion, in case the capital itself should us. Indeed, though starving them- be taken by storm. selves, they were obliged to feed us About eighteen months afterwards, before touching a morsel.* The Cap- I did at last make out my way to the tain of the British ship, though he Isle of France. Instead, however, of could not help laughing at what was finding the island, as I expected, in told him, sent the Swede a barrel or the sole possession of our fellows, two of pork, and a hogshead of water, scarcely one of us was to be seen. Afwhich was handsome enough certain- ter expelling the Dutch, I I was told ly; but he would on no account spare by a native, that we had a glorious her any men. My new quarters were time of it for a month or two; and rather dirty ; but, for the fun of the that our rascals even captured a large thing, I would put up with a great Dutch vessel, which put in to the isdeal. The dinner-bell rung soon after land on its voyage to Batavia. But I went on board. The Captain and his this did not last long-dissensions bemess took their seats,-we issued from gan to arise as the stores decreased ; our births, jumped upon the table, and at last, when every thing was eaten ran over every dish, discussing what up, we had no alternative but to atwe thought best: we even took the tack each other, and thus became an morsels off the forks, and out of the easy conquest to the French, who soon mouths of the party. No resistance afterwards arrived. was made-that had already been tried In the following year I made a trip in vain. The crew only consisted of to Canada, and had the good fortune sixty, and we were 60,000! After to assist in storming a Canadian Muske eating and wasting as much as we R-t village, where we found our chose, we jumped on the cabin-floor, quarters so pleasant, notwithstanding and by scraping made our sigual for the almost overpowering perfumes, water, which the stewards and seamen that we remained the whole winter. were ordered instantly to put down for Nothing can be more comfortable than us. Indeed, if any denial had taken the huts of the Musk gentry, which place, the consequences must have are composed of herbs and rushes, been dreadful; as we had so many so interlaced and plastered with clay, fierce spirits on board, that they would as to be perfectly impenetrable to rain
• This, many naval men know, has more than once taken place. The crew of the Valiant, in 1766, was completely overpowered by rats, and the ship itself very much endangered.-Editor.
+ if rats on board a ship are in want of water, it is well known they have little hesi. tation in eating through her bottom. It is believed that many, which have never been heard of, have been lost in consequence of those operations.-EDITOR.
# Vide St Pierre, vol. II. p. 137, and M. de Querhoënt, vol. V. p. 276.-EDITOR.