then disposed of some under cure at the Savoy, I returned to Whitehall, where I dined at Mr. Offley's,* the groom porter, who was my relation.

Sept. 7. I went this morning on foot from Whitehall as far as London Bridge, through the late Fleet-street, Ludgate-hill, by St. Paul's, Cheapside, Exchange, Bishopsgate, Aldersgate, and out to Moorfields, thence through Cornhill, &c. with extraordinary difficulty, clambering over heaps of yet smoking rubbish, and frequently mistaking where I was. The ground under my feet so hot, that it even burnt the soles of my shoes. In the meantime his Majesty got to the Tower by water, to demolish the houses about the graff, which being built entirely about it, had they taken fire and attacked the White Tower where the magazine of powder lay, would undoubtedly not only have beaten down and destroyed all the bridge, but sunk and torn the vessels in the river, and rendered the demolition beyond all expression for several miles about the country.

At my return I was infinitely concerned to find that goodly church St. Paul's now a sad ruin, and that beautiful portico (for structure comparable to any in Europe, as not long before repaired by the late king) now rent in pieces, flakes of vast stone split asunder, and nothing remaining entire but the inscription in the architrave, showing by whom it was built, which had not one letter of it defaced. It was astonishing to see what immense stones the heat had in a manner calcined, so that all the ornaments, columns, friezes, capitals, and projectures of massy Portland stone flew off, even to the very roof, where a sheet of lead covering a great space (no less than 6 acres by measure) was totally melted; the ruins of the vaulted roof falling broke into St. Faith's, which being filled with the magazines of books belonging to the Stationers, and carried thither for safety, they were all consumed, burning for a week following. It is also observable that the lead over the altar at the east end was untouched, and among the divers monuments, the body of one bishop remained entire. Thus lay in ashes that most venerable church, one of the most ancient pieces of early piety in the Christian world, besides near 100 more. The lead, iron work, bells, plate, &c., melted; the exquisitely wrought Mercer's Chapel, the sumptuous Exchange, the august fabric of Christ Church, all the rest of the Companies' halls, splendid buildings, arches, enteries, all in dust; the fountains. dried up and ruined, whilst the very waters remained boiling; the voragos of subterranean cellars, wells, and dungeons, formerly warehouses, still burning in stench and dark clouds of smoke, so that in five or six miles traversing about, I did not see one load of timber unconsumed, nor many stones but what were calcined white as snow. The people who now walked about the ruins appeared like men in some dismal desert, or rather in some great city laid waste by a cruel enemy; to which was added the stench that came from some poor creatures' bodies, beds, and other combustible goods. Sir Thos. Gresham's statue, though fallen from its niche in the Royal Exchange, remained entire, when all those of the kings since the Conquest were broken to picces also the standard in Cornhill, and Q. Elizabeth's effigies, with some arms on Ludgate, continued with but little detriment, whilst the vast iron chains of the City streets, hinges, bars and gates of prisons were many of them melted and reduced to cinders by the vehement heat. Nor was I yet able to pass

through any of the narrower streets, but kept the widest; the ground and air, smoke and fiery vapour, continued so intense that my hair was almost singed, and my feet unsufferably surbated. The by lanes and narrower streets were quite filled up with rubbish, nor could one have possibly known where he was, but by the ruins of some church or hall, that had some remarkable tower or pinnacle remaining. I then went towards Islington and Highgate, where one might have seen 200,000 people of *Dr. Offley was rector of Abinger, and donor of farms to Okewood Chapel in the parish of Wotton, in the patronage of the Evelyn family.

all ranks and degrees dispersed and lying along by their heaps of what they could save from the fire, deploring their loss, and though ready to perish for hunger and destitution, yet not asking one penny for relief, which to me appeared a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld. His Majesty and council indeed took all imaginable care for their relief by proclamation for the country to come in and refresh them with provisions. In the midst of all this calamity and confusion, there was, I know not how, an alarm begun that the French and Dutch, with whom we were now in hostility, were not only landed, but even entering the city. There was in truth some days before great suspicion of those two nations joining; and now, that they had been the occasion of firing the town. This report did so terrify, that on a sudden there was such an uproar and tumult that they ran from their goods, and taking what weapons they could come at, they could not be stopped from falling on some of those nations whom they casually met, without sense or reason. The clamour and peril grew so excessive that it made the whole court amazed, and they did with infinite pains and great difficulty reduce and appease the people, sending troops of soldiers and guards to cause them to retire into the fields again, where they were watched all this night. I left them pretty quiet, and came home sufficiently weary and broken. Their spirits thus a little calmed, and the affright abated, they now began to repair into the suburbs about the city, where such as had friends or opportunity got shelter for the present, to which his Majesty's proclamation also invited them.

Still the plague continuing in our parish, I could not without danger adventure to our church.

Sept. 10.

I went again to the ruins, for it was now no longer a city. 13. I presented his Majesty with a survey of the ruins, and a plot for a new city, with a discourse on it; whereupon after dinner his Majesty sent for me into the queen's bed-chamber, her Majesty and the duke only being present they examined each particular, and discoursed on them for near an hour, seeming to be extremely pleased with what I had so early thought on. The queen was now in her cavalier riding habit, hat and feather, and horseman's coat, going out to take the air.

16. I went to Greenwich church, where Mr. Plume preached very well from this text: 66 Seeing therefore all these things must be dissolved," &c., taking occasion from the late unparalleled conflagration to remind us how we ought to walk more holily in all manner of conversation.

10 Oct. This day was ordered a general fast through the nation, to humble us on the late dreadful conflagration, added to the plague and war, the most dismal judgments that could be inflicted, but which indeed we highly deserved for our prodigious ingratitude, burning lusts, dissolute court, profane and abominable lives, under such dispensations of God's continued favour in restoring church, prince, and people from our late intestine calamities, of which we were altogether unmindful, even to astonishment. This made me resolve to go to our parish assembly, where our doctor preached on the 19 Luke 41, piously applying it to the occasion. After which was a collection for the distressed losers in the late fire.

THE DUTCH IN THE MEDWAY, 1667.

S. PEPYS.

June 8. Up, and to the office, where all the news this morning is that the Dutch are come with a fleet of eighty sail to Harwich, and that guns were heard plain by sir W. Rider's people at Bednall-green all yesterday even. The news is confirmed that the Dutch are off Harwich, but had done nothing last night. The king hath sent down my lord of Oxford to raise the countries there; and all the western barges are taken up to make a bridge over the river about the Hope for horse to cross the river, if there be occasion.

10. Up; and news brought us that the Dutch are come up as high as the Nore; and more pressing orders for fire-ships. W. Batten, W. Pen, and I to St. James's; whence the duke of York gone this morning betimes, to send away some men down to Chatham. So we then to White Hall, and meet sir W. Coventry, who presses all that is possible for fire-ships. So we three to the office presently; and thither comes sir Fretcheville Hollis, who is to command them all in some exploits he is to do with them on the enemy in the river. So we all down to Deptford, and pitched upon ships and set men at work: but, Lord! to see how backwardly things move at this pinch, notwithstanding that by the enemy's being now come up as high as almost the Hope, sir J. Minnes, who was gone down to pay some ships there, hath sent up the money; and so we are possessed of money to do what we will with. Yet partly ourselves, being used to be idle and in despair, and partly people that have been used to be deceived by us as to money won't believe us; and we know not, though we have it, how almost to promise it; and our wants such, and men out of the way, that it is an admirable thing to consider how much the king suffers, and how necessary it is in a state to keep the king's service always in a good posture and credit. Down to Gravesend, where I find the duke of Albemarle just come, with a great many idle lords and gentlemen, with their pistols and fooleries; and the bulwark not able to have stood half an hour had they come up; but the Dutch are fallen down from the Hope and Shell-haven as low as Sheerness, and we do plainly at this time hear the guns play. Yet I do not find the duke of Albemarle intends to go thither, but stays here to-night, and hath (though the Dutch are gone) ordered our frigates to be brought to a line between the two block-houses; which I took then to be a ridiculous thing. I find the town had removed most of their goods out of the town, for fear of the Dutch coming up to them; and from sir John Griffen, that last night there was not twelve men to be got in the town to defend it which the master of the house tells me is not true, but that the men of the town did intend to stay, though they did indeed, and so had he (at the Ship,) removed their goods. Thence went to an Ostend man-of-war just now come up, who met the Dutch fleet, who took three ships that he came convoying hither from him says they are as low as the Nore, or thereabouts.

11. Brouncker come to us, who is just now going to Chatham upon a desire of commissioner Pett's, who is very fearful of the Dutch, and desires help for God and the king and kingdom's sake. So Brouncker goes down, and sir J. Minnes also from Gravesend. This morning Pett writes us word that Sheerness is lost last night, after two or three hours' dispute. The enemy had possessed himself of that place; which is very sad, and puts us into great fears of Chatham. Home, and there to our business, hiring some fire-ships, and receiving every hour almost, letters from sir W. Coventry, calling for more fire-ships: and an order from council to enable us to take any man's ships; and sir W. Coventry, in his letter to us, says he do not doubt but at this time (under an invasion, as he owns it to be) the king may by law take any man's goods. At this business late, and then home; where a great

deal of serious talk with my wife about the sad state we are in, and especially from the beating up of drums this night for the train-bands upon pain of death to appear in arms to-morrow morning, with bullet and powder, and money to supply themselves with victuals for a fortnight: which, considering the soldiers drawn out to Chatham and elsewhere, looks as if they had a design to ruin the city and give it up to be undone; which, I hear, makes the sober citizens to think very sadly of things.

12. Up very betimes to our business at the office, their hiring of more fire-ships ; and at it close all the morning. At noon home, and sir W. Pen dined with us. By and by after dinner my wife out by coach to see her mother; and I in another (being afraid at this busy time to be seen with a woman in a coach, as if I were idle) towards The. Turner's: but met sir W. Coventry's boy; and there in a letter find that the Dutch had made no motion since their taking Sheerness, and the duke of Albemarle writes that all is safe as to the great ships against any assault, the bomb and chain being so fortified: which put my heart into great joy. When I come to sir W. Coventry's chamber, I find him abroad; but his clerk, Powell, do tell me that ill news is come to court of the Dutch breaking the chain at Chatham; which struck me to the heart. And to White Hall to hear the truth of it; and there going up the Park-stairs I did hear some lacqueys speaking of sad news come to court, saying, there is hardly any body in the court but do look as if he cried. Home, where all our hearts do now ache; for the news is true that the Dutch have broke the chain and burned our ships, and particularly "The Royal Charles:” other particulars I know not, but it is said to be so. And the truth is I do fear so much that the whole kingdom is undone, that I do this night resolve to study with my father and wife what to do with the little that I have in money by me, for I give all the rest that I have in the king's hands for Tangier for lost.

So God help us! and God knows what disorders we may fall into, and whether any violence on this office, or perhaps some severity on our persons, as being reckoned by the silly people, or perhaps may by policy of state he thought fit to be condemned by the king and duke of York, and so put to trouble; though, God knows I have in my own person done my full duty, I am sure.

13. No sooner up but hear the sad news confirmed of "The Royal Charles" being taken by them, and now in fitting by them, (which Pett should have carried up higher by our several orders, and deserves therefore to be hanged for not doing it,) and burning several others; and that another fleet is come up into the Hope. Upon which news the king and duke of York have been below since four o'clock in the morning, to command the sinking of ships at Barking-creek and other places, to stop their coming up higher which put me into such a fear, that I presently resolved of my father's and wife's going into the country; and at two hours' warning they did go by the coach this day, with about 13007. in gold in their night-bag. Pray God give them good passage, and good care to hide it when they come home! but my heart is full of fear. They gone, I continued in frights and fear what to do with the rest. W. Hewer hath been at the banker's, and hath got 500l. out of Blackwell's hands of his own money; but they are so called upon that they will be all broke, hundreds coming to them for money: and they answer him, "It is payable at twenty days-when the days are out we will pay you ;" and those that are not so they make tell over their money, and make their bags false on purpose to give cause to retell it, and so spend time, I cannot have my 200 pieces of gold again for silver, all being bought up last night that were to be had, and sold for 24 and 25s. a-piece. Every minute some one or other calls for this or that order; and so I forced to be at the office most of the day about the fire-ships which are to be suddenly fitted out. And it's a most strange thing that we hear nothing from any of my

brethren at Chatham: so that we are wholly in the dark, various being the reports of what is done there; insomuch, that I sent Mr. Clapham express thither to see how matters go. I did about noon resolve to send Mr. Gibson away after my wife with another 1000 pieces, under colour of an express to sir Jeremy Smith, who is, as I hear, with some ships at Newcastle; which I did really send to him, and may possibly prove of good use to the king, for it is possible in the hurry of business they may not think of it at court, and the charge of express is not considerable to the king. The king and duke of York up and down all the day here and there: some time on Tower Hill, where the city militia was; where the king did make a speech to them, that they should venture themselves no further than he would himself. I also sent (my mind being in pain) Saunders after my wife and father, to overtake them at their night's lodging, to see how matters go with them. In the evening I sent for my cousin Sarah and her husband, who come; and I did deliver them my chest of writings about Brampton, and my brother Tom's papers, and my journals, which I value much and did send my two silver flagons to Kate Joyce's that so being scattered what I have, something might be saved. I have also made a girdle, by which with some trouble I do carry about me 300l. in gold about my body, that I may not be without something in case I should be surprised; for I think, in any nation but ours, people that appear (for we are not indeed so) so faulty as we, would have their throats cut. In the evening comes Mr. Pelling and several others to the office, and tell me that never were people so dejected as they are in the city all over at this day; and do talk most loudly, even treason; as, that we are bought and sold, that we are betrayed by the papists and others about the king: cry out that the office of the ordnance hath been so backward as no powder to have been at Chatham nor Upner Castle till such a time, and the carriages all broken; that Legg* is a Papist ; that Upner, the good old castle built by queen Elizabeth, should be lately slighted; that the ships at Chatham should not be carried up higher. They look upon us as lost, and remove their families and rich goods in the city; and do think verily that the French being come down with an army to Dunkirk, it is to invade us, and that we shall be invaded. Mr. Clerke, the solicitor, comes to me about business, and tells me that he hears that the king has chosen Mr. Pierpoint and Vaughan of the west, privy councillors; that my lord chancellor was affronted in the hall this day, by people telling him of his Dunkirk house; and that there are regiments ordered to be got together, whereof to be commanders my lord Fairfax, Ingolsby, Bethell, Norton, and Birch, and other presbyterians; and that Dr. Bates will have liberty to preach. Now, whether this be true or not, I know not; but do think that nothing but this will unite us together. Late at night comes Mr. Hudson the cooper, my neighbour, and tells me that he come from Chatham this evening at five o'clock, and saw this afternoon "The Royal James," "Oak," and "London," burnt by the enemy with their fire-ships: that two or three men-of-war come up with them, and made no more of Upner Castle's shooting than of a fly; that those ships lay below Upner Castle, (but therein, I conceive, he is in an error;) that the Dutch are fitting out "The Royal Charles;" that we shot so far as from the Yard thither, so that the shot did no good, for the bullets grazed on the water; that Upner played hard with her guns at first, but slowly afterwards, either from the men's being beat off, or their powder spent. But we hear that the fleet in the Hope is not come up any higher the last flood. And sir W. Batten tells me that ships are provided to sink in the river, about Woolwich, that will prevent their coming up higher if they should attempt it. I made my will also this day, and did give all I had equally between my father and wife.

* William Legge, mentioned before. He was treasurer and superintendent of the Ordnance, with general's pay.