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1596.

[I. iii. 239.]

died. Then within eight daies space, all the rest died, either for that they were neglected by the Friers, (which I thinke sufficient in that Countrey to cast away any in their case), or by their too much care, namely by poison (as some suspect): for the Friars have one of their order, who is skilfull in physicke, and hath a chamber furnished A Friar with cooling waters, sirops, and other medicines most fit skilfull in for that Countrey. When they were dead, the Friars physicke. gave into the Turkes hands, the bodies of the two Flemmings and Master Verseline, (who had little store of crownes, which belonged to the great Turke, as heire to all strangers), and the Turkes permitted them to be buried upon Mount Syon without the wals, in the Church yard proper to the Christians of Europe: But Master Bacon, overliving the rest, and now seeing his life to depend upon the Friars care of him, shewed a Novice Friar long bracelets of peeces of gold twined about his arme, and promising to give them all to him, and greater rewards if he would goe with him into England, so as he would take care of him in his sickenesse, he had perswaded the young Friar to goe with him into England, and to promise him faithfull service there: yet when this Novice at his confession made this knowne, and after verified as much to the Guardian and chiefe Friars, I know not whether the hope of this booty made him die sooner, but I am sure he lived very few daies after. And give me leave to tell the truth, these Friars either to gaine his money, (which was due to the Great Turke), or for feare that inquisition should be made by the Turkes after the cause of his death, appearing by manifest signes upon his body (as others suspected and reported), I say these Friers buried this Gentleman in a yard of their Master Bacon Monastery secretly, which if the Great Turke or any of secretly his Magistrates had knowne, no doubt they would gladly buried. have taken this occasion to extort much money from the Frires, since by the like forged accusations, they use sometimes to oppresse them; the very Turkes having at other times themselves buried dead bodies within the

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circuit of the Monastery, and after caused them to be Turkesfrauds. digged up, as if they had beene casually found; and then crying that their Ottoman was deceived, put the Friars to pay large ransomes for redeeming of their lives. And let no man wonder that these hungry Governours of Cities and Provinces in Turkey, should use like frauds to intrap Christians, (as they doe very frequently,) since they buy their Offices, and many times are recalled, before they be warme in their seats, if any man at Constantinople offer larger summes for their imployment.

Jerusalem had

nours in one yeeres space.

The Turkish officers at Jerusalem.

So as this one Province of Palestine, and one City of foure Gover- Jerusalem, (though having small or no trafficke), hath had in one yeeres space foure Zaniacci, the old being recalled to Constantinople, assoone as his successour had outbribed him there. And this is one of the greatest mischiefes in this Empire, since starveling flies sucke much more, then those that are fully gorged. The foresaid Zaniacco is chiefe Governour for military and civill affaires of all Pallestine, and lies at Jerusalem in the house of Pontius Pilate. His Substitute or Liefetenant is called Caiake, who cast one of our consorts for a time into prison, because he complained of the Turkish exactions, and his owne poverty. The third Magistrate is called Cady, who governes Ecclesiastiall matters, and dwelt in Salomons house (as they call it) at Jerusalem, neere the yard of the old Temple of the Jewes, (in which now a Turkish Mosche was built); and of this man we had our leave to enter the City, and to see the sepulcher, and being called before him, we were commanded to put off our shooes, he sitting crosse leg'd (like a Tailor) on the ground upon a Turkey Carpet. The fourth Magistrate was called Agha, who kept the Castle of Jerusalem, and when we walked one evening on that part of the roofe of our Monastery, whence we had the fairest prospect into the City, he sent a messenger to command us to retire from beholding the Castle, or otherwise he would discharge a peece of Ordinance at us.

Chap. III.

Of our journey from Jerusalem, by land to Joppa, by Sea to Tripoli in Syria, by land to Haleppo and Scanderona, and of our passage by Sea to the Iland Candia.

1596.

[I. iii 240.]

[graphic]

women.

Pon Friday the fourteenth of June, in the June 14. yeere 1596 we went out of Jerusalem, Ann. 1596. and by the same way, and in the same manner as wee came, rode backe to Ramma, delivering to our guide as many zechines as before, to pay for the Turkish exactions, and to our Muccari for their Asses which we had hired. Neither did any memorable thing happen to us by the way, save that when we came neere to Ramma, and by chance rode over the place of buriall for the Turks, where some women were then mourning for their dead friends, they thinking it a reproch that we should ride over their graves, did with inraged Inraged countenances fling stones at us, till wee appeased them by dismounting from our Asses. The fifteenth of June we came backe to Joppa, where our guide gave three meidines to a Janizare, that hee would beate with a cudgell certaine Arabians, who had offered us wrong by the way, which hee did readily and roundly. Then without delay we went aboard our little Greeke Barke, which (according to our bargaine at Cyprus) staied here for our returne. For the Master thereof was further tied to transport us Provident from hence to Tripoli in Syria, neither had he yet received advice. full paiment for transporting us hither, the money being left in Cyprus with an Italian Merchant, who was to pay it him at his returne, if hee brought a testimony under our hands, that he had performed his bargaine to us. This condition we made providently, and by advice of experienced men, for otherwise the Master of our Barke, upon any profitable occasion, would have left this port

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before our returne from Jerusalem, and wee should hardly have found another Barke here, in a place not much frequented with ships. Besides that the restraint of the money, not to be payed but upon a testimony brought under our hands, was a good caution, that he should not use us ill, nor any way betray us. The sixteenth of June upon Sunday by twilight of the morning, we set sayle from Joppa, and coasting the shoare of Asia, had the land so neere us every day, as wee might easily distinguish the situation of the Cities and Territories. And Caesaria. first we passed by the Citie called Cæsaria Philippi, seated in a Plaine, and twentie five miles distant from Joppa, which of old was a famous Citie, but now for the most part ruined, and become an infamous nest of Turkes, Moores and Arabians. Here Christ raised to life the daughter of Jairus, and healed the woman, which for twelve yeeres had a flux of bloud. And here Saint Peter did baptize the Centurion Cornelius, and Saint Paul in the presence of Fœlix disputed with Tertullus. Here Titus the sonne of Vespasian landing, when hee came to destroy Jerusalem, cast great multitudes of Jewes to wilde beasts to be devoured. In the right way to Tripoli, Antipatris. Antipatris was not farre distant, which Herod did rebuild,

Carmel.

Achon.

and thither the souldiers did leade Saint Paul, by the command of the Tribune Lysias, but we could not see this Village. Next, we did see the Pilgrims Castle, now called Tortora. Then we sailed by the Promontory (hanging farre over the Sea) of the Mountaine Carmelus, made famous by the aboade of the Prophet Elias. Then we passed within sight of the old Citie Ptolemais, after called Achon and Acri, seated in a faire playne within a Creeke of the sea of the same name, and compassing the Citie. And such a faire plaine lyes all along the Coast from Joppa to Tripoli. This Citie was famous by the armies of Europe, passing to conquer these parts, and at this day it hath a large circuit, compassed with walls, and a commodious Haven, and is thirtie five miles distant from Cæsaria. From hence sailing twentie miles, we

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passed by the Citie Tyrus, then called Sur, the ruines Tyre. whereof witnesse the old magnificence. The seate thereof seemed most pleasant, being built upon a low Rocke, in the forme of a Peninsule, which Rocke was part of a high Promontory hanging over the sea. And it may [I. iii. 241.] appeare how strongly it was fortified of old by Quintus Curtius, relating the difficulties with which Alexander the Great took and subdued the same. When we had sailed some ten miles further, we did see the ruines of Sarepta, where the Prophet Elias lodged with a widdow, Sarepta. in the time of a great famine. After we had sayled some twenty miles further, we did see and passed by the City Sydon, now called Saetta, seated on the North side of a Sydon. Promontory, and lying towards the West and South, to the very sea side. These most pleasant Territories are inhabited by wicked people, but God sent us a faire wind, by which we escaped from them, into whose Ports if we had beene driven, they would have taken all just and unjust occasions to extort money from us, if they did us no worse harme. Mention is often made in the Holy Scriptures of Sydon, Tire, and these Territories, as well in the old as new Testament, the particulars whereof I omit. Here first we did gladly see the hils and high tops of Mount Lybanus, being a very pleasant Lybanus. and fruitful mountaine, the wines whereof are carried as farre as Haleppo. The Castle Barutti is some two miles Barutti. distant from the Promontory of Saetta, and it is seated upon the North-side of a hil, hanging over the sea. they say that Saint George delivered the Kings daughter, by killing a Dragon: And to this place, as also to Tyre and Sydon, there is great concourse of Merchants, who have their chiefe trafficke at Damascus, and especially at Haleppo. From hence we passed ten miles to Biblis; Biblis. then after ten miles saile, we passed by Petrona, and againe after ten miles saile by a Promontory, which the Italians call Capo Peso.

Here

Lastly we passed ten miles sailing by a most pleasant plaine, and so upon Thursday the seventeenth of June.

M. II

49

D

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