LETTER XXXII.

Killarney, Sept. 10, 1813.

BEFORE the sun rose we were ready and impatient to quit Castle Isle. The distance to Killarney was a short eight miles. A new line of road, recently finished, in a great measure avoids the hills, by which route, however, fine views of the lake and its Alpine boundary are lost. We overtook a number of people on their way to the market at Killarney.

The prospect from the summit of the mountain, over which the old road passed, determined us to quit our carriage, and to perform the journey on foot, as the only means of obtaining a sight of the promised landscape.

Killarney has long ranked as one of the grandest and most distinguished objects in this interesting country. The beauties of its lakes are held as not inferior to any in Europe-the only rivals of our northern lakes in the British empire, and by most persons considered as superior to them in picturesque effect.

Approach the Lake of Killarney.

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From the moment it was deemed practicable to extend our tour to this enchanting spot, I never ceased to anticipate the highest gratification from an examination of it, and much satisfaction in the opportunity of being able to determine, from the exercise of my own judgment, as to the sum of its pretensions and merits: but what is strange, and not easily to be accounted for, when the moment arrived for the accomplishment of objects on which I had dwelt with so much anxiety, I no longer felt the same zest or inclination. We quitted our horses at the rise of the hill, and walked up.

When the mind is deeply affected with the near approach of some momentous or interesting event, the pulsations of the heart become hurried and irregular-the tongue mute-conversation inconvenient; and, as solitude is preferable on such occasions-while my companion was engaged in chat with those going to market, I took the opportunity of proceeding alone. The ascent of two miles gave me ample leisure to commune with myself: I could not hide from my own heart, nor will I disguise it from you, how much I apprehended, lest I should now be compelled to acknowledge there was a spot on the surface of this habitable globe more enchanting than Windermere. The weakness

396 Prospect of Killarney obscured by a Fog.

inseparable from human existence often obliges even the greatest characters to blush at their own littlenesses! This acknowledged defect in our nature makes me less scrupulous in disclosing the secret cause of my perturbation :-I was provoked, and out of humour with myself! I wished to persuade myself I was disposed to be candid and to decide fairly, at the instant I was imagining the most specious arguments to justify my prepossessions. I was ashamed at being forced to believe myself incapable of being impartial-my reason disclaimed it; and, after a time, I discovered that a further abstraction of thought would be likely to deprive me of the promised enjoyment, to the fullest extent of that delight, which is ever attendant on the contemplation of the sublime works of nature, or of indulging in the enthusiasm so universally excited by views of a grand and beautiful description.

I had been so entirely absorbed in my own reveries, that I lost sight of all that was surrounding me, and had nearly reached the top of the hill, before I perceived a thick fog, which had risen from the plain, and had so rapidly ascended as to obscure the sun and all distant objects: by the time I had reached the summit, an impenetrable mist involved the

The Summits of Mountains only perceived. 397 whole country. Under other circumstances this would have been the most cruel of disappointments; but on the present occasion, truth obliges me to confess, I felt relieved and comforted in being freed from an immediate decision. We were too well versed in these casualties of climate to wait for the precarious chance of the fog's dispersing; and in descending the hill we were now and then gratified with a momentary glimpse of the rugged tops of some of the stupendous mountains before us. Occasionally a peak was seen towering far above the fog, and magnified by the medium through which it was observed. The undefined outline of this imposing obscurity gave endless scope for the exercise of the imagination, leaving it to fancy to supply and fill up the chasm. I much question whether a more sublime and exalted impression was not made on our minds, by this partial and imperfect disclosure of beauties, than would have been produced had the whole landscape burst at once upon our sight. Rousseau, when speaking of the dress of the sex, observes," that the most faultless and exquisite form loses nothing of its powers of fascination by being partially and indistinctly seen; the lover's fancy depicts what is hid from the eye, in beauties co-equal, if not superior to perfection itself."

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Choice of Inn at Killarney.

The flat surface of the vale of Killarney is covered by a poor soil; the culture of it is very indifferent; and the whole is destitute of any beauty, if we except that which the hedges, planted with apple trees, afford.

Nothing worthy of remark occurred till we reached Lord Kenmare's upper park, two miles from the town, where the ground is diversified, and decorated with some stately timber.

Killarney is a respectable town, the principal street is well built, of considerable width and extent. The number of hotels and private lodgings indicate the influx of strangers, and afford an incontestable proof of the attractions in its neighbourhood. Our choice of an inn was decided by the notification of "good stabling with stalls:" the poor beasts had, how ever, to regret that these existed only on paper. A heavy rain had commenced before we reached the town; the sun, however, seemed disposed to contend for empire; and though appearances were unpromising, our hopes led us to entertain no doubt of fine weather after breakfast.

The report of a stag hunt at Glená, had caused all Lord Kenmare's boats to be engaged.