LETTER XXVIII.

Galway, Sept. 6, 1813.

ON leaving Ballinrobe, the appearance of the country improved much: the enclosures on both sides are large; and though stone walls are not the most agreeable partitions, they are here unavoidable. The herbage of the fields was luxuriant, and the condition of the cattle and sheep did credit to the husbandry of the country.

The facility with which stock fattens on these pastures proves the superior value of their quality as feeding land, which lets from three to four pounds per acre, and accounts for the small proportion of it which is under the plough.

Grazing countries, requiring fewer laborers for their cultivation, are, comparatively speaking, always thinly inhabited.

We were concerned to observe that humble

340 Mode of harvesting Corn in Ireland.

as the cabins were which we had recently seen, those which we now passed had a still meaner appearance, differing in their construction by having hipped roofs; the consequence of some difficulty, I presume, attendant on raising the gable ends.

As soon as the crops of corn, which are principally oats, are cut and sheaved, they are immediately put together in pikes, the buts of the sheaves being placed on the outside for the purpose of withering and drying the grass with which they abound. The labor in bearing the sheaves to these pikes must be considerable; but the practice in so wet a climate is indispensable, as it effectually secures the grain from injury. This mode is not confined to Ireland, for it is the prevailing custom in South Wales; it is however consequent also on the humidity of that country, and is of itself a sufficient and satisfactory reason for keeping the land in pasture. We saw more wheat within a circuit of ten miles round Belleek, than we had observed in a preceding one of a hundred. At Shrale, seven miles on our way hither, are the ruins of a castle and abbey.

From Ballinrobe to Galway is twenty-five miles; the places for refreshing horses are very

mean.

Excellent Quality of the Grass.

341

Cahirmorris is a wretched pot-house. The ruins of a fortified post, and of an abbey, bespeak it to have been a place of more consequence in former times.

We had very fine views from various parts of the road. The appearance of the broken limestone had in some instances a very singular effect. At first sight the country seemed to be perfectly desolate; a small portion of grass only was seen to spring from the fissures of the rock; yet scanty as was the quantity, such was its quality that the sheep seemed to thrive on the pasture it afforded.

Gregg Castle, the seat of Major Kirwan, is at a short distance from Cahirmorris. This gentleman, in having two thousand acres under his own management, worth from two to three pounds per acre, is reputed to be one of the greatest graziers in the country; he has frequently had two hundred head of oxen and four hundred sheep at Ballinasloe fair. I was sorry to pass this gentleman's place, having reason to believe we are both descended from the same ancestry, though we differ in the sent orthography of our names. His acknow. ledged hospitality left no room to doubt of a kind reception.

pre

342

Delightful View of Lough Corrib.

We have often to regret that we started so late in the autumn, as it compels us to leave much unseen, and to pass what we should gladly notice. The hope, however, of hearing from friends and of home, after so long an interruption of intercourse, superseded every other consideration, and made us most anxious to reach this place. I forbear to express how much we were disappointed in finding there were no letters waiting our arrival.

A few miles from Galway we had a delightful view of Lough Corrib, computed to be twenty miles in length, six miles wide in the broadest part, and estimated to cover a surface of thirty thousand acres. It is much interspersed with islands of different forms, which greatly contribute to its picturesque beauty. To the north of this great water, and not far distant from it, is Lough Mask. The gillaroo trout, and the pearl muscle, are found in both lakes.

The immediate approach to Galway exhibits the most singular appearance of country I ever beheld, bearing the appearance of its having been the seat of volcanic eruption. Blocks of limestone have been showered down in every direction; on some spots not a blade of grass, or the least sign of vegetation, is perceptible.

Description of Galway.

343

So desolate a scene of apparent ruins on a flat surface I never before saw; and, instead of the view presenting the indications of a large, and populous town, containing thirty thousand inhabitants, I should have supposed the place unpeopled, and in the most inhospitable region. The bay seems to have been the only inducement for its adoption as the site of a large town; and even this may be objected to, as the approach to it is dangerous for ships exceeding a certain moderate draft of water. Newton,

which is on the opposite side of the bay, is the

principal resort for the shipping.

The town of Galway occupies a considerable extent of ground. The Irish town is of great length, and crowded with low, mean cabins, which shelter a numerous population, living apparently in great poverty. In the old town the houses are lofty, with their gable ends towards the streets, which are very narrow and dirty. The modern parts are in a much better style the square is an airy spot, and when completed will be handsome. The jail is a fine modern building, and is well regulated. There are also a respectable garrison and considerable barracks. Too much in commendation of the quays cannot be said. The herring fishery is considerable; yet to a stranger unconnected