A good many Jews have recently settled here, and built a synagogue, and there are a few Christians, but the great mass of the people are Mussulmans of the most bigoted class. As we rode out of the city some rude boys cursed us, and threw pebbles after us, reminding us of the boys of Philadelphia. One of the pebbles struck me on the shoulder, but it was so small as not to inflict any bruise.

As we approached the city we saw large vineyards, on the very ground, may be, from which the Eshcol clusters were taken. The country still abounds in grapes. The marks of industry here reminded us of the neighborhood of Bethlehem, though there are no such recent improvements here as there.

I ought to have said that in the city we visited a large pool, walled with stone, which they call the Pool of Abraham.

A mile or so from town we visited the great oak which they call Abraham's oak. It is certainly very near the spot where Abraham's tent was pitched under the oak of Mamre. Just above the oak there is a ridge from which the "vale of Sodom" may be seen-the only point in all this region from which it is visible. There, no doubt, the patriarch stood when he saw the smoke of the burning cities of the plain.

The Russians have bought quite an extensive tract of land embracing this old tree, and are building a large monastery near it. The tree they have surrounded with a strong wall of stone. Under its long lateral branches, too heavy for their strength, they have set props. One of these great branches is

dead, and the tree itself must soon perish. plucked a few of its leaves.

We

Near it we passed along an extremely narrow lane between two stone fences, five feet high, built of the loose stone so abundant here. The corners and angles protrude suggestively from the perpendicular wall. If it had been a hundred miles east, over in Moab, I should have said that it was the very place where Palaam got his foot crushed. If he had nothing but sandals on, as I suppose was the fact, and his foot was pressed against one of these angles, it must have been sadly bruised. It was very provoking. No ordinary saint would be likely to keep his temper in such an emergency.

We returned to Jerusalem that night. Within a few miles of the city we passed "the tomb of Rachel." Many Jews come here to mourn. We looked in. Lamps were burning, and a few mourners were sitting there, some mumbling over their books and some eating boiled eggs and drinking out of a bottle.

The sky was overhung with heavy clouds, but as the city came in sight they parted just under the sun, as it stood a few degrees above the western horizon. The sun-burst upon the green fields that skirted the road made a striking contrast with the sombre cloud and with the heavy shadow that fell from it upon the distant mountains. I have witnessed deathscenes where the gloom and the glory were in the

same near contrast.

W

CHAPTER XXIX.

BETHEL SHILOH-NABLOUS.

HEN we returned to Jerusalem from Hebron a strong north wind was blowing, which, to me, was distressingly cold. I took refuge in the hotel, but my companions slept in camp, outside of the wall. They acknowledged in the morning that the tent had proved an unpleasant place, the wind was so strong. For two days it remained quite cool.

Friday morning, April 13, we took our final leave of Jerusalem. From the top of Scopus I had my last view of the city. I paused for some moments, gazing upon the great dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, fixing my mind on the sufferings of our Lord, and dismissing, as far as possible, all thought of the humiliating fictions that a fanatical credulity has attached to the place, and the superstiticus ceremonies that have been intruded upon it. "I believe that He suffered!" and think it likely that his sufferings culminated and were "finished" on this hill. With such thoughts I bowed my head, and reined my horse northward on the Damascus road, following slowly after my companions, who had gone on. I shall never see this city again. Shall I see the Jerusalem above? God grant it in infinite mercy!

For a long time Neby Samwil raised his towercrowned head on our left, rising above all other elevations in our view.

A few miles from the city, not over four or five, I should think, we passed "Gibeah of Saul." This was "a city set on a hill," the elevation being oval and quite high. Some old ruins remain. The ascent is rather difficult on horseback. I did not undertake it, but my companions were more adventurous, and were rewarded by a grand view of the city.

We halted for once at a village, the name of which I do not recall, where we saw ruins of a mediæval building—a church no doubt built by the Crusaders. Our dragoman, who, so far, proved to be a fine fellow, proposed to us that we should have our lunch spread in the village khan. The others objected. They affirmed that it looked dirty, and was no doubt full of fleas, to all which I made no reply, for it was too true; but I was resolved to see life in as many phases as I conveniently could. It was a little, nondescript, one-story affair, partly of stone, and partly of mud. In one corner was a middle-aged woman, with a kindly face, preparing a dinner of herbs by a handful of fire in a brazier. Near her sat a young man in faded good clothes, whom we had seen in Jerusalem, chatting with her in a pleasant way. Several men, just like all others of the common class here, were sitting about the door outside, talking very loud, and smoking the nargile. Our lunch-carpet was spread in the middle of the floor, and we fell to work upon it with a will, whereupon the man in faded clothes handed us a paper. Poor fellow, he was of a genus and species we had been long familiar

with. Genus, beggar; species, beggar with a certificate. The certificate was from a missionary, and stated explicitly that he knew nothing of the bearer. Some things in Palestine are much the same as in America

We reached camp early at Beteen-Bethel. The present village is not supposed to be on the site of the old town, but in the near vicinity. Of this I suppose there can be no doubt. We were on ground covered with sacred memories. Abram, after leaving "the place of Sechem," had pitched his tent between Bethel on the west side, and Hai on the east. This was upon his first entrance into the country. To the same place he returned after his visit to Egypt, and a considerable sojourn at Hebron. Here occurred the quarrel between Lot's herdsmen and his. The pasturage is not the most abundant hereabouts, and this circumstance might possibly have been the occasion of the strife. On one of these very hills Abram and his nephew stood when they viewed the country to the east and to the west, and agreed to part in peace. memorable night when he was fleeing from his angry brother, and took of the stones of the place for his pillow, and then also, in the morning, to build an altar. Stones! there is little else but stones. The earth is made of mountains here, and the mountains are made of rocks. Ai, near to Bethel, and east of it, was the next place taken by Joshua after Gilgal and Jericho. Bethel played a not inconspicuous part in the time of the Judges, and appears occasionally in later history.

Here Jacob slept on that

Of course we must look around a little here. We