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There are some shows that we would see in Spain, that are seldom beheld anywhere else; and they must appear, also, a strange and extraordinary sight: they are" bull-fights." That is, we should see them if we were to put ourselves in the way to do so; as they are spectacles in an amphitheatre, or a circus, like any other show: but we can scarcely imagine that one would wish to be present at such a sight. Here, however, women and children go as well as men, in the same manner that they would to any other theatre; and it is made a very gay scene. The only pleasant or picturesque part must be that which is here described: "An alquazil, in black, first rode round the arena, proclaiming the regulations of the day. He was followed by a procession of performers in their gay dresses; the picadores, glittering with gold and silver lace, on horseback, with their broad-brimmed hats and long lances; the chulos, on foot, with their red cloaks; the banderilleros, with their barbed shafts, wrapped in strips of white paper; the matadores, with their swords; and lastly three mules, gayly caparisoned, with strings

of little bells on their necks, which were to drag out the slain bulls. Loud shouts rose from the crowd; and then a door was opened, and an enormous bull, jet-black, with massive chest and glaring eyes, bounded into the arena. He ran first at the chulos, who shook their cloaks at him; but his rage appeared soon to subside. A picador put his lance against the animal's forehead; but he shook it off, and turned away. The chulos again came capering about him, and trying to provoke him; but he pursued them only a few steps." *

If no more harm than this were done, one might think it a quite simple and innocent entertainment, comparatively; but there is far more before the end comes. Other animals, dogs, and even horses, are brought in, and are worried and tossed by the bull; and the poor creature himself gets killed: all which makes it a very barbarous amusement. seems singular that it can be tolerated in any civilized or Christian country: yet, with it all, the Span

*Bryant's "Letters from Spain."

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iards themselves, both men and women, are said to be very noble, honest, and kindly in all their ways and manners; which makes it appear still the more singular and strange.

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CHAPTER XII.

OLD SPAIN.

WE must now go back to the fairies, and begin, where they or Glassée began, the story of old Spain. It was after that terrible civil war in Rome between Marius and Sylla, at which Glassée left off, and would not tell, but which caused dreadful times in Rome, filling the city with terror and dismay. This was the very Marius who had obtained such splendid victories over the Teutones and Cimbri, when they came with their immense armies of barbarians down towards Rome to overrun the country. This was before the civil war; and, when that commenced, there was in the army of Marius a brave and very noble-minded man withal, who was at first attached to his cause. But he did not

give in at all to the cruel deeds which Marius committed; and finally, as affairs turned exceedingly bad, he left Rome, depressed and discouraged, longing to flee away to some quiet, peaceful place, where he should hear the sound of war no more. The place he thought of were those beautiful Western Islands, far off on the ocean, some eight hundred miles or so from the coast of Europe, which we now call the Azores. There sailors had been, and had brought home so delightful accounts of its lovely regions, peaceful and sunny, that people began to think they must be the very "Islands of the Blest," where happy people went after death, and ever lived on in peace and quiet. Here Sertorius, this good man, desired to go; but he never really went, as public affairs seemed to change somewhat; and then he thought he would go to Spain, and remain there a while. He had, however, before this, been to Africa; and, while there, he had obtained a beautiful fawn,

a young deer, — which he tamed, and made of it a great pet. He carried this with him to Spain. It followed the good Ser

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