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lower grade are civil, obliging, and polite, doffing their hats constantly as one passes through the streets. There is a high-bred air and demeanour in the higher classes, which, added to their courteous, pleasant manners, makes their society very agreeable.

The University museums are admirably arranged, especially the natural history and anatomical departments. The best pictures had been sent to the exhibition at Stockholm. The only good painting left was executed by the King, who is a clever artist, and a patron of the fine arts generally, as well as a poet. Ignorance of the language leads to frequent mistakes, for instance, I asked the waiter to bring me a foot-bath at night, and when the hour arrived he appeared with a bottle of soda

water!

streets are wide and regular, but they look de serted, and the city lacks life, although it is reputed a good place for business. The palace is the largest wooden structure in existence; the houses are built of the same material, usually painted white, which gives the place so fresh and modern an aspect as almost to belie its antiquity. There is a cathedral, which seven or eight hundred years ago had few rivals; but it is a sort of conglomeration of architecture, from the numerous repairs it has undergone. It is here that the kings are crowned. Churches are numerous: there is a national bank, and a savings-bank attached to the post-office. There are some magnificent waterfalls and interesting copper-mines about four miles out, which all strangers should visit.

On leaving Dronthjem we went to Molde, which was only a journey of five hours by sea. The opposite coast is a lofty range of snowcapped mountains, jagged here and there with a rocky boulder almost touching the clouds, and on which even snow cannot linger. The

direction of the valley of Romsdale cannot be surpassed for beauty throughout Norway, for the eye rests continually on sombre, craggy mountains, lofty precipices, and every variety of scenery that helps to make an attractive picture.

A fjord is not a tiny inlet into the heart of the mountains, as one is wont to suppose, for some of them run up at least fifteen or twenty miles, such as the Hardanger and the Soigne. The outline of the mountains, forming the narrow gorge of the Romsdale, in one particular spot is so irregular and jagged that human ingenuity has discovered in it a striking_resemblance to a marriage party at the altar. Perhaps my imaginative powers were at fault, for I must confess it required some of a very prolific order to conjure up the dramatis personce out of the granitic group before me. At last I could distinctly see the priest, the bride, and what looked a

On Friday, August 13th, we went by railway to Eidwold, on Lake Moësen, and thence by steamer to Lillehammer, where we slept. On the following morning a very ample breakfast was provided, consisting of salmon steak, mutton chops, eggs, several kinds of bread, excel-windings of the Fjord to its termination in the lent butter, rich cream and strawberries, tea and coffee. We hired a carriage for four, with a pair of horses, and occasionally three, to convey us to our destination. The stations are generally way-side inns, about nine miles apart; them we procure fresh horses. There are no public conveyances in this country; travellers are taken from one place to another in a vehicle called a cariole. The seat is, in shape, like the bowl of a salad-spoon. Imagine yourself placed on a cushion, with your legs stretched out at full length towards the splash-board, and covered with a leathern apron, under which aspect you're supposed to be comfortably equipped for your journey. The boy who brings back the horses sits behind, where there is just sufficient space to strap on an ordinary-sized portmanteau. This is the arrangement, whether for ladies or gentlemen. Moreover, you have to drive yourself-no very objectionable occupation, as the horses are sure-footed, and go at a spanking pace-sometimes seventy miles in ten hours. The sleeping arrangements at the stations are not agreeable, as it is impossible to get a room to one's self; and it not unfrequently happens that three or four strangers find themselves in the same apartment. The bedding consists usually of dried hay, two sheets, an eider-down quilt, and large pillow, like those used by the Germans. These are some of the sweets of travel; and after having been all day in the op air, taking, perhaps, a good deal of exercise, we did not trouble our heads about the absence of English. comforts. The King, when coming from Dronthjem after his coronation, slept at two of these stations.

In many parts the scenery is most romantic. We saw several magnificent waterfalls; two days snowy mountain tops were in sight. We drove for miles along the banks of a majestic river, called the Nid, at the mouth of which lies Dronthjem. This was formerly the capital of Norway, until its union with Denmark. The

gigantic beadle-for, oh, forbid it ye powers! that such a Daniel Lambert should ever be the "happy man!" The bridal crown, which Miss Bremer tells us is an indispensable ornament on these occasions, was also well defined. Whilst contemplating this scene of still-life happiness, I was aroused from my reverie by a rumbling noise overhead and behind me, louder than any thunder I ever heard. I was standing then immediately under the peak called the Romsdale Horn, which rises 4,000 feet above the bed of the river that washes the gorge. I looked high and low, about, and around, but could perceive no indications whatever to account for the sound, which continued for half a minute; by-and-by I saw a cloud of dust issuing from an immense fissure midway up the Horn-it darkened the heavens in its ascent. Some friends who joined us shortly after heard the noise at a distance of four miles; they believed it to be the dislodgment of immense masses of rock in the interior of the Horn, but there were no outward visible signs, except the dust. I took a solitary walk

And the whole party turned into the bar, where Will was already ordering drink.

Meanwhile, the girl had gone steadily and swiftly on her way, and she was now past the Bayswater-road, and in Notting-hill; turning into Ladbrook-square, she knocked at the door of one of the houses there, and was presently admitted.

"Tell Miss Hamilton, if you please," she said to the servant, "that Myra Dawson has come with the work."

The maid ran up-stairs, and Myra sat down upon one of the ball chairs. What a nice, warm house it seemed! how brightly the fire shone through the open door of the dining-room! and what a fragrant smell of dinner came up the kitchen stairs close by! She could hear the voices of the servants talking and laughing on the basement storey; she could hear children's voices at their merry play in the top of the house, and a sweet voice talking to the maid, who had admitted her upon the drawing-room floor.

Presently the girl came running down to her again a smart little damsel, in a fly-away cap and a white muslin apron.

"Miss Hamilton says you are to come up," she said to Myra.

And Myra ran up-stairs, and went into the warm, well-lighted drawing-room, and stopping just inside the door, she dropped a curtsey.

It was such a pretty room; the girl had never seen anything so pretty before-with the clear bright fire in the low grate, the flowing curtains, the pretty, soft-looking chairs, the open piano, the pictures, the books, the elegant little trifles everywhere. By the fire sat an elderly lady, dressed in black silk, shading her face from the blaze with a handsome Indian screen; beside her stood a young girl, dressed in some soft, flowing material, with gold ornaments in her ears and round her wrists-a pretty, gentle, happy-looking girl.

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"Come in," she said to Myra; come and warm yourself. It is such a perishing evening. How did you ever venture out?" "Please, Miss," said Myra, "I don't mind the cold, and I had to come."

"And you have brought my work, I see," said the young lady, taking the parcel from the girl. "Your mother keeps her word. I hope it is well done."

"Look at it, Miss, if you please."

Miss Hamilton opened the parcel, and shook out several pieces of elaborate embroidery. "Oh, mamma!" she exclaimed, "do look; it's lovely!"

Mrs. Hamilton got up, took out her gold eyeglass, and examined the work.

"It is beautifully done indeed, Grace," she said. "Did your mother do it all herself?" she added, turning to Myra.

"No, ma'am, please. I did the most.” "But don't you go to school?" asked Grace. "I used, Miss, until mother's eyes got weak. I help her now as much as I can." And tears sprang into Myra's eyes.

"Poor thing!" said happy Grace.

Then she whispered some words to her mother, who also said, "Poor thing!"

"You will not lose this now, will you?" said Miss Hamilton again, taking a sovereign from her purse. "Your mother gets this for the work. Will you keep it safe?"

"Very safe, thank you, Miss," said Myra, her eyes sparkling.

"How will you carry it then? not in your hand?"

"I will put my purse in the bosom of my dress, and a pin through it, Miss," said Myra.

And unfastening her little shaw, she began to stow away the money. In doing so a little gold locket, attached to a thin, worn bit of black ribbon, became displaced and fell outside her frock.

Grace pointed to it laughing, as she said, "Sweetheart already, Myra?"

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'No, Miss, if you please; it's mother's," the girl hastened to explain. "Poor father's likeness is in it, and it's all she has of him."

"But your father is not dead, is he?" asked Mrs. Hamilton.

"We don't know, ma'am. He may be, for we never hear of him; but mother has a notion that he might see this locket someday, somehow, and know it, and so come home again."

"But how can he see it, if you keep it hidden ?"

"That's true, ma'am; but I let it be seen when I'm going where it's likely he'd be. But I don't think he'll ever see it," she added sadly.

"You must only hope the best, Myra," said Grace, kindly. "And now, good night. Don't lose your money; and tell your mother I am greatly pleased with the work, and when I want more done I'll let her know."

And then Miss Hamilton herself came down and let the girl out into the frosty streets.

Away she went, walking faster than she had walked before, eager to get home with the money; she was rejoicing over all the comforts it would buy for her mother, whose weakened health and failing eyesight weighed heavily upon Myra's heart. She was very proud of having worked the greater part of the piece of embroidery she had just delivered herself, for now she could get plenty to do, and her mother could devote her whole time to the fancy-basketmaking she had lately learned, and which did not try her eyes.

Then she thought of the pretty warm house she had just left, and of the girl with the white hands who had spoken so kindly, and she wondered if the rich ever had anything to trouble them; and as she walked, the little gold locket, which she had forgotten to put back inside her dress, was swinging backwards and forwards like a pendulum.

It was bitterly cold now, and Myra's rapid pace scarce kept the numbness out of her feet; she soon reached the Edgware-road again, and again the same group was collected outside the gin-palace, but they were not so quiet now; Will's drink had had its effect, and they were

all laughing loudly and exchanging coarse jests upon the passers-by; Will's laugh was the loudest, and Will's jest the coarsest of them all. Suddenly their roving eyes fell upon Myra's little figure, and the man called Ben cried out, "There's the little girl going back, Will, that you stared so hard after a while ago. Let's have her in, and give her a glass. It will warm her this cold night."

The child heard the words, and instantly took flight, Ben and Will dashed after her; the former, after a yard or two, stumbled and fell, but the latter, being steady on his legs, soon overtook the trembling child.

"Hold hard, will you?" he said, laying no light hand upon her shoulder. "I'm not going to murder you."

"Let me go! let me go!" she cried, clasping her hands in agony, and scared for her money, which she fancied he must have seen; she twisted like an eel in his hands, and contrived to free herself, but just as she was darting off again he made a snatch at the little locket, which caught his eye at the moment; the slender ribbon gave way, and poor Myra fled on, fully conscious that her precious little trinket was gone, but too much terrified to stop to get it back.

She never drew breath until she reached, panting and exhausted, the door of her mother's humble lodging, which was situated in one of the narrow streets off Oxford-street. She remained standing outside for fully five minutes, all the joy gone out of her heart, for what would money be to her mother without that little trumpery piece of gold? Yes, trumpery it might be to all the world, but precious to her above all the jewels in the regalia!

Had it not been given to her by, and did it not hold all that remained to her now of, the man who had won her young heart in the happy old days that never could come back any more?-days when, as bonny Mary Chester, the pride of the village, she had sung blithely about her work in her father's home, down in Cornwall; a home that was like dreamland to her now, so far off and hazy did it seem; a home from which all the world looked bright, and where no sun was too hot and no wind too cold, and from which she would go out to meet him, handsome William Dawson, as he came whistling home from his day's work at the "great house," with his tools slung over his shoulder in a limp basket.

And what had that time brought? It had brought marriage-happiness for a season-the birth of Myra-then temptation to the husband, resisted for a time, but more and more faintly as it became stronger-then straitened means, then failing health-finally, desertion, loneliness, and despair. A year or two passed; Myra grew into a fine, sturdy little girl; but the husband never wrote, never was heard of; and at length the unhappy wife took her broken heart, and her little child, away ftom her native village, to hide herself in the great wilderness of London.

How she struggled to live on there, God

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knew! She worked and worked unceasingly, wearily, for Myra's sake, and for the sake of a great hope, which no misery and no despair could kill-the hope that her husband would come back to her again. And now that she had fought a brave battle with poverty, and conquered -inasmuch as she and Myra had bread enough to eat and clothes enough to wear-a terrible trial, that might bring back poverty in its train, again was stealing upon her-she feared that she was going blind.

Through the years that had passed, through starvation and utter wretchedness, she had never, even to get a temporary loan, parted with her little gold locket. It had been her husband's gift, and she looked upon it as the one link left between them. It held his photograph and a lock of his hair. How could she part with it, when she remembered how it had been given?-how that sweet June evening, when they stood together under the limes, in which myriads of bees were humming, he had unfolded it from a piece of paper, and hung it round her neck, saying, as he did so, that he wished it were diamonds for her sake!

And now she was about to hear that it was lost for ever, and her desire to keep the last remnants of her fast-failing sight, in order that she might gaze at the face she loved so well, would vanish too.

Slowly Myra came up the stairs, but the mother knew the child's step, and she turned in her chair to watch the door, although she could not see plainly across the room. She had a lovely face still, but it was seamed and marked with trouble, and the wistful, melancholy expression which so often attends the want of sight, was beginning to steal over her dark brown eyes.

"Is it you, my child?" she said. "You have made good speed."

"It is cold, mother, and I walked fast. Here, mother, Miss Hamilton gave me this." And taking the purse from the bosom of her dress, she placed it in Mrs. Dawson's hand. "What ails you, Myra? Your voice is shaking. Are you cold, my darling?"

"No, mother, I'm not cold: but oh!"-and poor Myra's voice rose to a sort of cry-"what will you say to me? what will you do? It's gone! stolen!-your locket!-the picture !"

For one instant a gleam of something like anger crossed Mrs. Dawson's face, and she clutched Myra's arm fiercely.

"Gone!" she exclaimed. "And you have dared to come home to me without it?" And then her voice and manner changed suddenly; she threw her arms round Myra's neck, and broke into a bitter cry-" My child, my child! forgive me! I don't know what I say.'

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Then Myra told her all, and the poor woman listened with clasped hands and bent head.

"God forgive him for taking it," she said quietly, when she had heard all. "I fear I

never can.

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"Hush, mother! don't say that. Maybe it

of fourteen miles in the valley of Aäk, and then returned to a five o'clock dinner at the hotel, where I was gratified by the sight of some splendid sketches made by a brother of Lord who has found many fine subjects for his pencil in scenes so full of beauty as those we have lately passed through.

In the passage from Molde to Bergen, one skims past a myriad little islets; the way in which the steamers dart in and out of the narrow passages between them looks both mysterious and difficult. The islands, in general, are masses of gneiss, mica, schist, or granite, frequently trap-rock, entirely void of vegetation. The distance from Dronthjem to Bergen is upwards of 400 miles of coast line, but it is extremely interesting and picturesque, combining either the placid lake or rapid river, from port to port. The city is a large, busy place; the leading street is called the Strand-gaden, and runs parallel with the harbour for half a mile. As we passed up it, the people stood gazing at us open-mouthed, perhaps regarding us as objects of curiosity to be caught up for their museum. After two days' sojourn here, the steamer took us up the Soigne Fjord, which occupied two days more. The farthest extremity of the Fjord is called Gutvangen, where we remained for the night, having three beds in

one room.

The fosses (as the waterfalls are called) are here both numerous and marvellous, and the immense volume of water one sees here and there and everywhere would seem to indicate the miraculous wand of the prophet on every mountain top. Three of the fosses opposite Gutvangen were 2,000 in height each, and there were others equally grand, and of much greater volume. The road from this latter place to Vossvangen runs through valleys and gorges of excessive interest and loveliness, rendered especially beautiful by two lakes, each seven miles in length. Towering high above on the mountain tops, were extensive fields of snow and glacier ice. Then again came cultivated patches of land, slopes covered with trees, either of pine or birch, masses of grey, sombre granite, and anon glimpses of lake-like scenery, until at length we reach Eide, a station at the extremity of the Hardanger Fjord. In the vicinity of the village of Odde is the largest glacier in the world, called the Folgè Fond. The steamers that ply up and down these fjords have every comfort and accommodation that can be desired, and the traveller never ceases to admire the picturesque beauty of these deep bays, or fjords, which give such a peculiar charm and character to the regions round about.

The country is celebrated for its beeches, and in some places, where the waves have washed away the shore to a steep cliff, these trees hang their leafy foliage over its summit, or perhaps overshadow a huge mass of moss-grown stone, giving an appearance both pleasing and grateful. "Of Stockholm?" This city is "beautiful for situation," and is everywhere so intersected by water as to produce a charming effect: one

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may, indeed, call it a sea-girt isle, so numerous and extensive are the lakes which surrouud it. There are many places in the suburbs to which the citizens resort for recreation, where they are entertained with the finest Swedish music, and can dine at a moderate charge, besides being supplied with punch and other less intoxicating beverages. Ulricksdal is the name of the King's summer residence, and whether approached by land or water the situation is equally charming. In the cathedral of Stockholm (locally known as the Riddarholms Kyrkaw) are a number of equestrian figures, round the walls, in complete suits of armour. tavus Vasa is buried here, in one of the sidechapels; and on the opposite side is the tomb of Charles XII., and the bullet which terminated the life of this hero at the siege of Frederickshall. Other Swedish kings are interred in this church, amongst them Bernadotte, or Charles XIV. The shields of the Knights of the Orde of the Seraphim are hung round the choir; especially I noticed those of Prince Albert, the King of the Belgians, and Napoleon I. There were also various war trophies, and an extraordinary collection of kettledrums; these were all fortunately preserved when the church was struck by lightning in 1835.

The finest place on the Mälar Lake is a palace called Stokloster, belonging to Count Brahe, a descendant of the great astronomer, Tycho Brahe. At one time it was the property of Field-Marshal Papa Wrangel (as the Berliners call him), the veteran of the Prussian army. The palace is a quadrangular building, with four lofty octagonal towers, at each corner, domeshaped, and slated. It is embowered amidst luxuriant old trees, and is a most interesting, venerable-looking structure. The grounds and gardens are extensive; through the latter is a splendid avenue of elms. The palace itself may be looked upon as a perfect "art-treasure," so numerous and varied are its contents. The amount of legendary lore to be picked up here is not one of its least attractions. Besides weapons, and ornaments of all kinds (amongst others a beautifully-embossed dagger of Benevenato Cellinès), there are innumerable cabinets filled with presents from Royal personages to the Brahe family. The paintings exhibit rather a low standard of art, a remark that may, I think, apply to pictures generally throughout Sweden. The walls of the corridors are covered with portraits in fresco; they are the veriest caricatures imaginable, not excepting that of Tycho Brahe himself, in the sleeping apartment formerly occupied by Marshal Wrangel. The likeness of Charles XII., Bernadotte, and one of George IV. when Prince Regent, are better specimens of art, as well as a picture of Ebbe, the mistress of Gustavus Vasa. The tapestry was faded and time-worn, but if that had seen its best days, there were a hundred other objects of interest to engage the attention in the exquisite cabinets, antique furniture, and curiosities of very description; we lingered here for four ours, and even then departed unwillingly. My

next halting-place was Falkoping, where, if he please, the traveller may find a ready-made dinner, of which he may partake what he likes, and as much, from a well-spread board, for the sum of 1s. 3d. !-a meal for which he would have to pay, at least, 5s. at any of our "great" railway hotels in England.

temperament. Let it not, however, be surmised that it's all play and no work; far otherwise. The Danes are an intelligent race, and are provided with every facility for mental culture in the schools, libraries, museums of art and antiquities, with which their city abounds.

The Thorwaldsen Museum was bequeathed to the public by the genius whose name it bears: he died suddenly in the theatre in 1844, aged seventy-four. His remains lie in a sarcophagus in the court-yard: marble slabs cover the surface, and are placed edgewise, to form a recep

leaves seem clustered together in " rank luxuriance," and are a more fitting emblem of the undying genius of this great man of letters than "storied urn or animated bust" could ever convey. The only inscription recorded is the name, date of birth, and death-quite touching in its simplicity.

About "Helsingborg?" The King of Sweden's brother has no residence in the environs. If not an artist, like his brother, the Royal Prince is a writer of some celebrity, and has made valuable contributions in an historical form to the literature of his country; he has also trans-tacle for the soil which is planted with ivy; the lated "The Cid" into the Swedish language. Soon after our arrival, the King of Denmark passed the hotel en route to a visit to Prince Oscar. The King of Sweden we had seen some days previously, returning from a shooting excursion; the Royal brothers are very popular with their well-beloved subjects. Our steamer was the "Horatio;" the " Ophelia" was floating about in the harbour at Elsinore, where I landed to visit; Hamlet's grave: albeit, some say that here Hamlet never dwelt. Be that as it may, the whole scene of that magnificent production of Shakspeare's is laid in Elsinore, which lends enchantment to the place, no less than to the Castle of Kronsberg.

"Of Copenhagen?" However attractive this place may be, it has its "ups and downs," in common with many Swedish towns, in the obliquities of surface which are so terribly trying to the determined pedestrian. There is scarcely yard of pavement to be seen. In Copenhagen stones find a "local habitation" everywhere, and the consequence is that one gets into a state of pitiable ill-temper, and consigns one's bootmaker, hosier, and the paviour alike to the tender mercies of Pluto. The general aspect of the city is agreeable; there is a life and activity about it that makes it pleasant to look upon. The houses are lofty, and chiefly built of stone, the shops spacious, and some of the streets have an imposing appearance. Many of the leading thoroughfares have tramways of iron, on which omnibuses ply continually, and look like wooden houses in motion; they go along quite smoothly, and at a sufficient speed for all business pur

poses.

The Danes are very fond of gaiety and amusement, and no city in the world caters so well for its pleasure-loving people. There is a circus, a gymnasium, concert-halls, cafés chantants, dancing saloons, and last, but chiefest and best, gardens of surpassing beauty, where almost every evening hundreds of the most respectable citizens and their families meet to enjoy the entertainment provided for them. One of the attractions in these Tivoli Gardens is the "Montagne Russe," which people traverse only by the momentum acquired at first starting. This amusement seems highly diverting to the people, perhaps because there is a slightly sensational element in it, which suits their excitable

There are upwards of two hundred of the artist's works in the museum, of which wordpainting could give you but a very remote idea for all that they suggest of beauty in execution, and finish of detail, besides the solemnity of the subjects, many of which are from Scripture history.

The cathedral, called the Fruekirke (church of our Lady), is chiefly interesting from the number of Thorwaldsen's best works. Behind the altar is a colossal marble statue of our Saviour. The twelve apostles are arranged along the nave, six on either side; they are the most exquisite sculptures, inspiring one with feelings of awe and reverence, not unmixed with wonder, at the mind which could conceive and the hand which could execute such marvellous creations. In the sacristy is a basrelief, representing our Lord administering the Holy Sacrament to the "Twelve," all of whom are kneeling, except James and Judas.

The palace of Fredericksborg is about two and a-half miles from the city; it is prominently situated on a hill, and is surrounded with gardens like those of St. Cloud, with magnificent old trees, lakes, romantic walks, bridges, and sylvan temples. There is also the palace of Christianborg, which has over the portico two bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen's (representing "Jutheus"). Of all the classical subjects, the "Minerva and Promepiter and Nemesis," "Triumphal March of Alexander into Babylon" was that which pleased me most for artistic skill. This is in a large apartment of the Riddersal (Knight's Hall).*

The "Royal Museum of Northern Antiquities" occupies six or seven rooms, and has no rival in the world. In it is described chro nologically the different stages of civilization,

*The photographs (published by Messrs. Marion, Son, and Co., Soho-square) of many of the finest subjects of Thorwaldsen should be seen by all true lovers of the beautiful in art.

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