jestic beauty of luxuriant vegetation. Near to this tree will be seen the slender papaw tree, the stem gradually tapering to the top, where the leaves spread forth in a parachute form, the fruit, bright yellow, and melon-shaped, hanging beneath them. Interspersed amongst these monarchs of vegetation are various other trees, clothed in rich foliage, but of smaller dimensions, contrasting well with the larger trees— the cocoa-nut tree o'ertopping all. (We refrain from exhibiting our scientific knowledge by giving the Latin names of the trees, shrubs, and plants, indigenous to the island, as we should thereby only bore the general reader, and we are writing an account of Ceylon, and not a botanical dictionary). Imagine the waves foaming and frothing, dashing against and over the yellow rocks-then a billow, gracefully rolling, appears to gather strength as it reaches the shingly beach, on which it is precipitately driven, in a shower of white spray, the froth remaining on the glistening shingle, which, as you gaze, melts away, disappearing, as it is absorbed by the beach. On the bosom of the swelling, blue ocean, on the surface of which the sun's beams glitter and sparkle in thousands of dazzling rays, ride a few European vessels at anchor, their furled sails hanging in graceful festoons from the yards, and between these crafts are the canoes of the natives, bearing fresh provisions, and other articles of an edible nature to the ship. Place all these under a cloudless sky, with the thermometer at ninety-six, and you will have some idea of the harbour of Point de Galle, which has been bountifully constructed by the hand of Nature, being a small inland bay, somewhat of the horse-shoe, or semicircular form.

It is morning-the gun has been fired, and those amongst the passengers, who are about to make a sojourn in "Lanka's"* verdant isle, are hard at work, packing up their traps, anxious to avail themselves of the first boat that comes off to get on shore. Many, buoyant with hope, and in the full strength and vigour of manhood, looking forward with eager anticipation to

the completion of schemes, whereby they hoped to make a fortune, resolving to devote the whole energy of their nature to ensure the accomplishment of their plans. The sun rose with unclouded splendour, casting the red blush of his morning beams around on land and sea; and now the waters appeared to teem with canoes, hastening to the steamer, some bringing provisions, others to land the passengers and their baggage, whilst large boats were heavily freighted with a supply of coals. The scene of confusion on board the steamer was indescribable; passengers tossing their various travelling appurtenances into the canoe which was to bear them to the shore; these, in descending the ladder, would encounter coolees ascending, carrying baskets of coal on their shoulders, and each would then jostle and hustle the other, in the attempt made by either party to pursue their respective roads-then would arise a confusion of tongues, only to be equalled by that of Babel: exclamations in English, Cingalese, French, Tamil, Portuguese, Hindostanee-in short, every known and unknown language in the world, assailed the ear, with comments not peculiarly compli mentary upon each other's agility. A native, with a very small portion of dirty rag attached to his person by means of a piece of coir-rope tied round his loins, would step on deck, and encounter some blushing bride, or fair spinster, going out on spec, trusting and hoping devoutly soon to be raised to the matronly dignity, who would retreat with a slight scream at the sight of the rude, dusky figure, placing her hand before her eyes to exclude the disagreeable vision. Then would follow a Moorman, with shaven head, a round, embroidered, cloth cap, thickly padded with cotton, stuck on the top of his shorn cranium, to protect it from the sun's rays, with about six yards of coloured cotton tied round his loins with a silk handkerchief, forming a kind of petticoat (called by the natives comboy), but leaving him in a complete state of nudity from the waist upwards. This demi-savage has, in all probability, brought some

articles of vertu to sell, or at least what he considers as such, consisting of knife-handles, and snuff-boxes, cut out of the molar-tooth of the elephant, some fine specimens of various-coloured glass, which he endeavours to palm off as precious stones, and gems of the first water. These are followed by divers other natives and inhabitants of the island; amongst whom are to be found regular touters for the "hottels," for so they pronounce hotel; these copper-coloured gentry, handing a card, will descant most fluently, in broken English, upon the comforts to be found in the particular hottel which they have the honour to represent; when the eloquence of the touter has induced a passenger or passengers to trust himself or themselves to his guidance, he intimates to a coolee that it is his will and pleasure that such and such baggage should be placed in a canoe, as he could not support the corporeal exertion attendant upon lifting a portmanteau. These minor arrangements being completed, he follows the gudgeon who has swallowed his bait into the canoe, and they are impelled forward by paddles to the landing-place. These canoes are very rudely-constructed vessels, made of the hollowed trunk of a tree, with some transverse sticks by way of benches, and a frame-work platform occasionally placed across the stern, to form a seat for the convenience of European passengers; to one side of the canoe is attached an outrigger, formed of a slender spar of nearly equal length with the vessel, to which it is united by two curved arms: this outrigger floats upon the water, and prevents the possibility of the canoe being capsized. These canoes are propelled by three or four men, as the case may be, by means of paddles, roughly wrought into a shape, somewhat resembling that of a battledore ; a man is seated at either extremity, and the other or others place themselves as inclination dictates. This description of primitive craft vary in length from twelve to twenty feet, and in width from two to three; the paddles are about three feet and a-half long.

The landing-place is a pier, extending some 200 feet into the water, to one side of which is attached a per

and the long black hair combed back from the copper-coloured face, and twisted into a thick knot, close down to the pole of the neck, sticking out beneath the head-dress. In each ear were three gold rings, studded with coloured stones; these earrings were about thirteen inches in diameter, resting upon the shoulders, and a square piece had been cut out of the lobe of the ear, to allow the insertion of these ponderous ornaments. He wore a white cotton jacket, open in the front, exhibiting his copper-coloured, hairy chest, although to one side of the vest were attached innumerable jewelled buttons; round his loins was longitudinally rolled several yards of white cotton, forming a petticoat or comboy, the end being brought round. the body, where it hung down the front; this petticoat was confined round the waist by a silk handkerchief folded crossways, the points of which hung down angularly behind, forming a novel caudal extremity. In his hand was a Chinese umbrella made of black varnished paper, with a bamboo stick. The comboy reached to his ankles, which appeared below naked, as well as his unshod broad splay feet, in all the native ugliness of brownness, and pristine simplicity of dirt.

Many were the remarks, and hearty were the laughs, as our party of grif fins looked at this specimen of humanity. Some wanted to catch him, and forward him by the next steamer to the zoological gardens-others to put him into a bottle of spirits, and send him to the College of Surgeons ; but all agreed "that they had never seen so rum a looking cove before."

We cannot dwell upon the impression produced on those fresh from home and Europe, as they looked at the crowd of Asiatics and unclothed natives who thronged around them, stimulated by the desire of gain, striving to induce the "steam-boat gentlemen" to buy their wares, whilst others, from mere curiosity and indolence, would stand staring, open-mouthed, gawking at them; the children, with no other covering of any kind save that which nature has bestowed on all, their long black hair streaming down their backs, would clamorously ask for pice.

"Can you tell me where I shall find

the agent's office, as I want to make some inquiries about the fare to Calcutta, and if I am likely to find a berth vacant on board the steamer?"

This was said by a gentlemanly man who had been making a tour in the island.

"If you come with me I will shew you-it's close here," said one of the passengers, who had just landed, and who seemed perfectly acquainted with the locality; and up they mounted some stairs, and entered an open door. “Can I speak to the agent?"

"I go see," said the burgher clerk, in his abominable patois. And away he leisurely walked to a portion of the room which was screened off, where voices were heard mumbling. The clerk came back, saying

"Go inside-master can see."

In our gentleman walked, and stood in presence of a square-built, sour-visaged man, of perhaps fifty years of age, who was seated at a table, in an easy chair; looking over his spectacles at the intruders, as he evidently considered them.

"I wish to learn what is the fare to Calcutta?"

"There's the bill," said the agent, pushing one of the printed bills of the "Peninsular and Oriental Steampacket Company" across the table; never asking the gentleman to sit down, although he retained his own

with their own affairs, to make complaint of his rudeness.

"Is he not a pluralist ?"

"Yes, for he is harbour-master as well as the steam-company's agent." "Well, I wonder the government allow a civil servant to act in the capacity of agent to any company or merchant. John Company manages these things better."

"Bother the old grumpy, he is not worth talking about; nevertheless, he is a rare specimen of the genus homo." "Say, rather, of the ursa major."

Very good-very good, indeed," was the rejoinder, as they walked off to enter the town, or, as it is there called, the fort of Galle, joined by the party who had left the steamer.

The fort of Galle is approached through an ancient archway, which, with the ramparts and town, was built by the Dutch, after they had obtained possession of Galle, A.D. 1640. It is generally garrisoned by a company of the "Ceylon Rifles" (composed of Malays), and a company of whatever regiment of the line is on service in Ceylon. The uniform of the Ceylon Rifles is dark green, and the Malays make tolerably good and efficient soldiers. Under the archway a sentinel is stationed; the guard-house faces the archway, as you enter, the duty alternating between the regiment of the line and the Ceylon Rifles: here the soldiers are lounging about in the verandah-if our men, they are frequently to be seen smoking cheroots with much gusto-if they are Malays, they are invariably chewing betel, spitting about, and bespattering the whole verandah and ground near them with the disgusting, filthy, red saliva, caused by chewing their favourite compound of betel-leaf, chunam, and arekanut.

"But where is the Royal Hotel ?" said one of the party, "for my inward man wants refreshing."

"Soon there now," said the touter, "only down there-hottel round the corner."

Round the corner they go, and, to the delight of their weary limbs, see inscribed in letters of gold on a greenpainted, semicircular board, "The Royal Hotel," and they walked into a capacious, airy, well-furnished house; and now, for the beneficial information of would-be eastern travellers, we

state, that the aforesaid hotel is the only house of public entertainment in the whole Island of Ceylon where decent or good accommodation is to be had all the others, including the Rest House at Colombo, being literally “amblums," or rest-houses, where you met with wretched accommodation, worse food, and high charges invariably, and too frequently with insolent, presuming vulgarity. The Royal Hotel at Galle is conducted by a young Englishman, respectably connected; and it is from kindly feelings that we refrain from giving his name, fearing to cause pain to his family, as he is honourably seeking to gain his bread in a position which they might consider infra dig. In this house the dining-room is large and airy, and the sea-breeze blows refreshingly upon you whilst you eat your dinner, entirely obviating the necessity for a "punkah." The whole of the belongings, as the Yankees say, to the table, are clean and civilised, and we are not disgusted and poisoned with dirt. The bed-chambers are cool, well furnished, and la. But we

must stop our pen, which is running riot, as we cannot write a puff of this hottel free gratis for nothing.

Now, while the passengers are taking tiffin, we will sally forth and look round the fort of Galle, which encloses three principal streets; and these are intersected by several minor ones, with houses built on either side, consisting of ground floors, the roofs tiled, and projecting beyond the outer walls, supported by wooden pillars, thus forming a verandah, in front of which are suspended tats, to subdue the glare of the sun, and shut out the gaze of the inquisitive passers-by. These tats, or blinds, are composed of split reeds, attached together by the intertwining of thin coir or string, and are suspended from the roof of the verandah by rope. The roofs of these domiciles slope outwards from the centre walls, which are considerably higher than the external ones; the timbers rest upon the walls, leaving a space between the wall-plate and the tiles for the admission of air-thus allowing a thorough current to pass through the residence; and this arrangement of roof is generally met with in all tropical climates. The rooms are usually large, and instead of glazed windows, Venetian blinds are used, doors and

windows are kept wide open, with a white screen placed before them to prevent the actions of the inmates being observed by all who choose to look ; in short, all privacy is sacrificed to the great desideratum in a hot climate, namely, that of obtaining and being in as much cool air as practicable. The town of Galle is a clean little place, and looks like a crossbreed between a Dutch country town and an Asiatic one. One street is inhabited principally by Moormensome of them being very wealthy, although the external appearance of their dwellings indicates poverty combined with uncleanliness. These men trade in precious stones, rice, spices, cottons, prints, hardware, fruits, salt, saltpetre, poultry; in short, in every imaginable commodity whereby money is to be made; nay, they even trade in that valuable commodity itself, for if a military or civil servant is hard up before his month's pay becomes due, they will furnish him with the needful for a consideration, as there are not greater usurers on the face of the earth than these Moormen.

But stop-surely our passengers have finished their tiffin by this time. To be sure they have, for there they are all standing at the door of the mail-coach office. We will be with you directly, my boys.

"Ha, ha! ha, ha, ha! This is a rich idea European gentlemen, £2 10s.; Moodliars and their descendants, £1 10s.; Proctors and natives, £1.'"*

" Then, by George, I will black myself, so as to look a native nigger. The idea's a rich one, to pay according to your colour."

"But, my friend," said a young, fresh-coloured, good-looking fellow, "how do you know that I am European? Suppose I am a half

caste.'

"Master too white."

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They not high caste; all same me."

"Your logic is queer, old fellow. A Cingalese gentleman is not a native, although, like an oyster, he was born and bred in one place; but a poor man is a native because he is not a gentleman, or, as you say, 'not plenty high caste. ''

"But," said another, "have you ecclesiastical courts here? if so, they must be at a discount, as a proctor ranks with a native. What is a proctor?"

"Proctor man go talk judge in court; he burgher.'

"My dear fellow, you will never make that chap understand you. Can't you understand plain English, you black nigger?"

"I no talk plenty English. Misser Christoffoletz inside, he talk plenty English; I go call he."

And out comes a portly, goodhumoured looking man, as black as a crow, dressed entirely in white clothing, smiling, and disclosing teeth which would be the envy of many a British belle.

"Good morning, gentlemen; is there anything I can explain to

you?"

"What is the meaning of proctor? I can't make out that fellow's lingo.”

"A proctor, sir, here, is what I have heard say is called in England an attorney."

"Thank you; but about these different fares, what does it mean?" "It is the custom here, sir, to pay like that."

"Well, if we must pay for our complexions, we must, that's all, as it is the custom. Can we have the whole coach ?"

"Yes, sir; I will put on an extra one to accommodate your party." "You are a very civil fellow; but how can you put on an extra coach ?" "I am the proprietor, sir."

"Well, then, Mr. Chris-ChrisChris-proprietor (for I cannot pronounce your jaw-breaking name), what time will the coach start?"

"At gun fire."

"When's that?"

"Five o'clock in the morning, sir."