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the crocks. That day I suffered mentally, also--the inconstancy of the fair sex was the cause ; for having ravished a long black lock from the sable tresses of an ancient Egyptian damsel, who lay, a mummy by the wayside, I put the dusky treasure into my breast coat-pocket, but, when I drew it forth next morning, behold, it had crumbled into snuff! Courteous companion, trust not the beauties of a mummy. pit, nor any other beauties of the race of Eve-live and die a bachelor, es. chewing young maidens, widows, and old maids. Soundly slept old Remesisfather of sleepers the Arabs term him -as he took out his siesta, untrou. bled with a yoke-fellow, calmly recum
bent in the mud. We rode by him and Mitraheeny, as the shades of night were falling, and arrived in safety at the boats. A gentle breeze murmured through the palm-trees--the glimmer. ing stars gleamed fitfully across the broad, deep, flowing waters of Old Nile-lights twinkled from a neighbouring Bedawee encampment- the distant baying of some houseless dog, or the wild cry of the prowling jackal, alone breaking the stillness of the night, we dismounted from our long-eared friends, the donkeys, and, at the wel. come summons of our Arab cooks, closed, with a most substantial dinner, our little go at the pyramids.
CHAPTER IV.-OUR “ GREAT GO," OR THE PYRAMIDS OF JIZEH, WITH SOME
STRICTURES ON THE SEX AND PHYSIOGNOMY OF THE SPHINX.
Great at times are the vicissitudes of four-and-twenty bours in the life of a traveller ; but one-half that period had scarcely elapsed, when our slumbers were broken by the din and bustle of the war of life. In simple English, we went to bed near Mitraheeny, and got up at Jizeh, right opposite Old Cairo. Some heavy rain had fallen during breakfast, but at the expiration of the fourth pipe (we counted by pipes, not bells, on board our boat, The Commodore), we got ready for our start to the pyramids of Jizeh. Donkeys, with the latterly unusual appendages of bri. dle and saddle, had been sent us that morning from Cairo; and having provided ourselves with three tickets each, not to leave on the ghost of old Cheops, but to bestow on the fortunate indivi. duals we should select as guides, we disembarked for the excursion. On landing, we were at once involved in a scene of new and unanticipated tumult, some forty ragamuffins rushing to the water's edge, each claiming our sepa. rate and undivided patronage, as guide at the pyramids. In vain did the irri. table Hadge Bourri with the kurbash ply the clamorous crowd, equally, and without respect of persons; in vain did Paulo harangue, with more tongues than Cerberus, and the lungs of Stentor. The guardian genius of the Nile himself, or Father Neptune, backed by his police of Tritons, could not have commanded silence. Yielding to destiny, I at once surrendered to the
three first gentlemen, who, despite of habeas corpus, had seized on my body corporate, while B., determined to exercise his right of choice, was lite. rally encompassed by Philistines ; his hands were pinned into his pockets, his knees held, and his donkey forcibly taken possession of. One guide, at whom he scarcely nodded, was taken by the nose, and pulled over from behind. However, off at last we did get, the triumphant fifteen (three guides a-piece) shouting and jumping like mad-donkeys frolicsome and frisky (ass-drivers prodding them behind)—and ourselves like boys let out for a holiday, up for anything, and in great heart, relieved from the pressing occupations of your every-day life at home, amidst new scenes-in a glo. rious climate, and enjoying unaccustomed health, the days of boyhood sweep over the spirit, and carking care appears the phantom of some by-gone dream-verily, one lives again.
Our path was, for the most part, through a rich and cultivated plain, which the basha thought not beneath his notice, inasmuch as several troops of cavalry had encamped therein-tents pitched, and troop horses picketed all around. Here were also groups of fel. laheen, droves of asses, and innumerable dogs ; blue-garbed belles paraded with little squalid children, and a herd of goats did pastoral for the nonce. On nearing the objects of our excursion, I could not, I confess it, help wincing a little at the prospect of ascending the pyramid, the edge looked so sharp, and the steps at the angle so acute, that the apprehension of getting giddy, and then blown off, damped my ardour not a little. I do not know how far the rest of the party shared in a similar sensation, but, on arriving at the base of the Great Pyramid, all appearance of risk, or even difficulty, vanished in a moment. The serrated edge presented now a stair case for a giant-the giddy height was counterbalanced by the enormous bulk of the huge edifice- and even our guides were looked on as a humbug, whose assistance was wholly nominal and unprofitable. However, they at least were of a contrary opinion, and two, grasping each a hand, whilst one followed in the rere to pick up the pieces in case of accident, I was soon at the half-way house, on the eastern edge of the pyramid. Here I was permitted to take wind. Again we went at it, the second stage being even less difficult than the first; and, rather blown and heated, I stood on the summit of the pyramid. « Backsheesh, backsheesh,” roared the harpies. “ Mafeesh felons," was the reply ; and, cantabit vacuus, I felt out of the power of the robbers. One by one, the rest of our party made their appearance, and, seated on some fallen masses of stone, well be-scribbled by souls thirsting for immortality, we began to look about us, and cool down. Splendid was the view from the summit of the pyramid the distant Nile, winding with tortuous course, the plain we had passed through, luxuriant in fertility, dotted with little hamlets, and waving palm-groves, spread like a vast carpet, green as the emerald, and intersected by numerous water-courses, that intertwined, like sil. ver threads, athwartits surface. Beneath the sterile Mokatum, Cairo, with dome and minaret, peeped through a mass of
foliage, and all was gladdened by one unbroken flood of glorious day. We turned, and the desert, drear and desolate, was stretched before us, the white sand glowing under the cloudless skyno sound to break the stern stillness of the scene-no object to enliven its dull monotony-except the distant pyramids of Dashoor and Sakara, and they spoke only of solitude, decay, and death. On rolled the Lybian waste, onward, still on-till the weary eye grew dim with wandering over vacancy. Well, we sat down, and wrote letters to friends at home, dating from “Psramids of Cheops"_sand was plenty, and elbow-room abundant. We descended, saw the inside, and set off for the Sphinx. Now the sphinx has been a much-misrepresented monster. First, all travellers have, until late, combined in depriving him of his gender : he is masculine, my good lady, and not one of your sex at all. Witness his beard, which has lately been grubbed up. Now a beard is not an adjunct of even an Egyptian gentlewoman. Next, tourists have talked twaddle by the bucketful about this Brobdignag's “ solemn beauty, mild benignity, serene repose." All humbug-not one word of truth in the whole of it. As an honest man, I will tell how he really appears. View him in profile, take a side-glance at his battered face, and noseless physiognomy -- you have the image of a superanntated baboon in a judge's wig. Now take bim in front, face him, and behold a beau-ideal of the ghost of Old An. tiquity.
Yes, he has braved the brunt of centuries--their characters are written on his brow. Father ofcountless sphynxes, he has buried almost all his offspring, and now seems but awaiting the desolation of his old compeers, the pyramids, to congè time, and glide into eternity.
CHAPTER V.-SHOPPING IN CAIRO, WITH A PREVIOUS DIGRESSION ILLUSTRATIVE
OF THE MODERN USE OF AN ANCIENT SARCOPHAGUS.
Revenous nous à Moutons. Let us come back to our cardinals. Pre. sently, most patient auditor ; but allow me just a few lines of digres sion, by way of a preparatory canter. We are passing the very pretty gardens of Roda. Let us land for ten
minutes, whilst I tell you on the spot the story of the pilfering Arab and the stone sarcophagus. Well, out with it, but be concise. The tale is as follows; but first look about you. These grounds are laid out in European rather than oriental style ; and so much the better, say I. What does a Turk know about gardening ? Look, for instance, at the far-famed gardens of Damascus. An incon: gruous mass of tree, shrub, under wood, and red dust, an old kiosk, and a muddy stream in the middle. Wood, water, and his nargilleh, are all the proprietor cares about: he is averse to walking, and his segadeh enables him to squat where he will. But here are well-laid walks, luxurious and rare exotics; the palm, bamboo, and fig, the aloe, and a thousand other choice productions of the glorious eastern clime, spread their umbrageous foliage across our path. The kiosk is tawdry, I grant you, and the grotto somewhat too closely resembles a chance medley of woolpacks, dusted over with all varieties of shell. But take the gardens on the whole, and you must confess they beat the “ Groves of Blarney" by a long chalk, which is saying a great deal. Now, sit you down by those fine pomegranates, till we have our chat out. Some three years past, I was intro. duced to Mr. T., the basha's head gardener, a shrewd, intelligent, gentlemanlike Scotchman, who kindly piloted me through the marvels of this garden. Amongst other subjects, he in troduced his troubles, from the indolence and roguery of the Arab labour. ers. He tried kindness, and an appeal to interest and moral feeling ; he might as well have "whistled jigs to a milestone." Then he had recourse to severity, but the labourers were as used to the bastinado as an eel to skinning. At long last he bethought him of an hitherto untried expedient, worthy of a political economist, as no doubt he is. In one corner of the garden lies an old sarcophagus, with a well-fitting lid, and a convenient aperture near the head. Moreover, this sarcophagus is long, narrow, and by no means deep. The bright thought struck Mr. T., that solitary confinement, in this said stone coffin, might produce salutary results. An opportunity for testing its efficacy soon presented itself.
These pomegranates beneath which we sit were placed under the peculiar charge of a most trusty Arab, a fellow fit to protect the garden of the Hesperides, could you take his character from himself, and a very Argus in
the matter of pomegranates. Watch and ward did the Arab keep, but the fruit, as it ripened, disappeared. Every underling was suspected; none were proved guilty of the charge; and T.'s fidus Achates repeatedly averred he could never see the plunderer with all his eyes ; hard for him, for he turned out to be the pillager himself. Mr. T. took him at once into custody, marched him off to the stone coffin, and inducting him into all the rights, privileges, and temporalities thereof, the lid was fastened down, and Argus left to his reflections. For five long days and five mortal nights the fellah remained incarcerated, unable to turn to the right hand or the left, and, to crown all, fed solely on his favourite pomegranates : they were meat and drink to him. Now mark the moral effect from the day of his release, thenceforward, the emancipated Arab was never known to look a pomegranate in the face, and became an efficient and most disinterested guardian of the grove. Mr. T. now made the sarcophagus a regular state prisonArabs, short, long, fat, or lean, all taking their turn therein, and emerging therefrom invariably both wiser and better men. Now, I call this a noble example of the practical value of antiquarian researches.
Considering some half-hour ago I totally disclaimed lion-hunting, I find I have fallen into the very snare I had determined to avoid ; for short as is the time which has elapsed since we left the Hotel d'Orient, we have contrived to charm serpents, overhaul darweeshees, hang a Bedawee, shoot a hyena, climb pyramids, with sundry other divertissements, too numerous to detail. So let us get on board again; and here we are at Cairo.
Now we go shopping. Shopping ? What a bore! I grant you shopping is at times a bore, especially if you go to shop with ladies. A man is never more out of his element than when he enters the haberdasher's. There you stand, perhaps, at the shop door, for the time a discarded appendage-a mere fag-end of humanity-whilst your fair friends plunge into the mysteries of silks, satins, laces, and mousselinede-laines, winding up with the purchase of a yard of bobbin, or a pennyworth of pins. I have admired the patience of a Job, but am astounded at the endurance of a shopman. And yet is patience his only virtue? Verily, as Madame de Stael said of Bonaparte, “ He is a system, not a man ;" a regular combination of physical and moral excellencies. The labour of a Hercules, the winged heels of Mer cury, the lying versatility of Edipus, the eloquence of Cicero, the good looks of Ganymede, the craft of Ulysses, the polish of a Paris--all are mere items in the composition of a shopman. But as far as is the east from the west, so far different is shopping in London from shopping in Cairo. Mount your indefatigable donkey, and make the experiment. Up you are. Drago, in all his flaunting finery, before you : it is a great day for him ; in fact a day of harvest; he per cents the purchases. The assdriver brings up the rear, poking, prodding, and shouting his incessant “Yemeenak shemalak oua riglak ya Bint" (" Old women are invariably in the way"); and off we go as if Grand Cairo belonged to us "in fee-simple." On we pass by Clot Bey's mansion; up that broad street, i. e., broad for Cairo. Listen to the shouts from the Moristan, the lunatic asylum on your right, now reformed, by the way, cleanly, and quite convenient to go mad in. Now we plunge into a lady. rinth of lanes, not to be equalled on the other side of the Mediterranean, nay, not in Leghorn itself; the style of building on each side peculiarly eastern, and sui generis ; the bare, dead wall bedaubed with stripes of red and white alternately; ranges of projecting lattice windows, Mesherabeyeh, as they call them, defining the second story; a large stone portal, and marvellously shabby gate, acting as portcochere to the court within ; while the flat-terraced roof that terminates the edifice, appears as if the builders, like those of Babel, meditated an endless altitude, but got disgusted with the job. Now, from a facetious method of constructing the second tier of Mesherabeyeh, so as to project over the first, and the third in like manner beyond the second, you find yourself beneath an arbour of lattices, protrud. ing amicably, till they almost touch across the street. One necessary consequence of which arrangement, if you take snuff, your neighbour opposite you sneezes. Now, underneath those
parasols of timber, down in the lane below, like any people kept in constant darkness, every one does what seems right in his own eyes. There trains of laden camels, curiously strung head and tail together, tramp it in the middle of the populace, their pon. derous feet portending manslaughter; the high-raised, supercilious noddles careless as unconscious of the casualty. Now comes a howling footman, heralding some dignified equestrian ; sakas, with leaky water-skins, bedewing luckless bystanders; whilst your donkey modestly makes way for some half. score of perils in perspective, to back you into countless dangers from behind. Then beggars, that take 110 denial, crowd you ; pipe-cleaners, with their ungainly reeds of wire, poke into your face; the sherbet-seller tinkles his everlasting drinking-vessels ; venders of doorah, bread, and anomalous eatables; moping darweeshees; women, endless women, each less humanlooking than her neighbour ; brats, black and blear-eyed, squalid, naked, with paunches like infant Bacchus's; lazy, growling, mangy curs innumerable, snarling over a stray piece of offal, or sleeping amidst the turmoil ; grunting fellaheen, trotting under burdens. Ohe jam satis. Who could count the curiosities of one chance alley in Grand Cairo ?
But here we are at last at the Turkish Bazaar, Khán el Khaleelee, as it is designated. Some of these sooks are covered overhead with matting, supported by beams stretched across the street. The ground is usually kept moist with frequent watering, and the whole place steams like a hotbed. But there is a chain across the entrance ; here we must leave our donkeys. And are these what you call shops—little cells, with the plat. form in front? And is that the « counter-jumper," that grave, longbearded, heavy-sterned Moslem, smok. ing like a chimney, and fiddling with a string of beads? Yes, sir ; you be. hold both shop and shopman. And now the bazaar is before you ; seek what you need, from a diamond ring to a penny trumpet. Here is the fancy goods' department-pipe mouths and perfumery ; segadéh, Cashmere shawls, wax candles, robes of honour, silk sashes, sabres, and munitions of war. What can't be had for money?
There a busy Arab tempts us with new braveries ; here a wily Greek solicits our distinguished patronage. We will stop at the establishment of this worthy Turk, who sits as calmly careless of our presence as if you and 1, good sir, were not in the world at all. I recommend one of these voluminous silk sashes-it will act as girdle or occasional saddle-girth, enable you to cut a dash in Syria, and then, resplendent from the wash-tub, split into three, each strip converted into a lady's scarf, will serve as a first-rate present for some fair friend at home. My wife and sister-in-law, sister and long-backed cousin, glorify themselves in two I purchased at Beyrout. There is a good segadeh; you don't need it for a “prayer carpet," but will find ample occasion for its services, in turn, bed, blanket, camel saddle, horsecloth, or when you can afford to cut a dash, a carpet for your tent. Would Dot that fine embroidered jerkin tempt any sinner with a taste for distinction ? Here are sabres that would raise the cockles of the heart of Rustam. Take your shebuk; up on the Mastabah; poff a few seconds, and begin. Prome. theus, pitch a spark into that Turk, or, if he has it in him, rouse him! Stir bim up! Now he brightens; the pipe is parting from his lips (I thought it grew there); and the commercial conflict flares up forthwith. EI Tagir Dames the value, not of the article you have chosen, but the value he imagines the Giaour sets on it. Drago comes indignantly forward, and offers
one-half the real worth. The hitherto inanimate trafficker now swears by his head and eyes, the beard of his greatgrandmother (if she had one), or some other 'imprecatory object, quite as nearly to the point. Drago mountsEl Tagir descends. You look on at first, amazed at their heat and loud vociferation. Are England and the Porte about to join issue on some five yards of striped silk, value two hun. dred piastres ? But now your blood gets up, and you egg on Drago, as in every known tongue he apostrophises the rapacious merchant.At length the price is struck, and you are confidentially apprised by your dragoman you have got your sash a dead bargain, albeit you have paid at least onethird more than the price current for the article. Dragoman, in parting, receives his private douceur, and the donkey boy pouches the new purchase. But now, like the love of gambling, the excitement of shop-hunting has come over you. On you travel, from stall to stall, like a bee over a flowerbed, till signs of closing the bazaar warn you to give over for that day. What a heterogeneous mass of commodities you find by nightfall piled in a corner of your bedchamber. How you re-examine your new property, and wonder what to do with half of it. Then a qualmy vision of misspent piastres steals over your spirit, and you lie down to rest, determined on the morrow to wake up a cautious purchaser, and more prudent man.
CHAPTER VI.-THE BATH AT GIRGEH-A SKIMMING DISLOCATION, AND A
“You get up, Mr. Pea," said Paulo, as I lay in the arms of Morpheus in the inner cabin of my boat; “ you get up, Mr. Pea : time to come ashorethe bath is waiting.”
* There let it, Paulo," I answered, and turned on the other side; but Paulo was not to be put off so easily; and, fairly badgered into my br-ches, I slipped on slippers, and tuinbled sleepily on deck. I had never tried the experiment of a Turkish bath illness had prevented my going to the baths in Cairo; and we had now ar. rived at the balf-ruinous town of Girzeb, pleasantly situated by the Nile.
VOL. XXXII.--NO. CLXXXVIII.
Our fellow-voyagers in the Pasha had already got on shore; and, with Paul and Hadge Bourri, we proceeded to make trial of what the veritable Mr. Lane terms “one of the greatest luxuries enjoyed by the people of Egypt." The bath had been previously engaged for our especial ablutions, and was cleared out and ready for our reception after the indigines had luxuriated in their morning's wash. Needling our way through narrow lanes and ruinous buildings, we reached the highest portion of the village, and entered a small, shabby sort of square, one side of which was occupied by a