whilst the fourth is a moral and reflective cardinal, which will take us to the missionary schools, in the Coptic quarter. Having satisfactorily achieved these four several cardinal points, you may trust me, Grand Cairo is used up.

But to return to poor pug. Do you see him perched up there on that window-sill how impatiently he shakes his chain; how he bustles from side to side what a world of business he must have on his little shoulders; and how indignant he appears at not being let "up and at "it. Now, let this capital C stand for the four cardinals, round O for our respectable selves, and this little m for the green monkey. Now, it is evident to the meanest capacity, that O cannot attain to C, unless strain for it like m, monkey. Hence straining m forming a link in my chain of ideas, agreeably to the established law of associations, I have, I submit it, not merely produced a practical observation at the sight of a monkey, but by the aid of pug and three letters of of the alphabet, have made a mystery of metaphysics as clear as mud: verily green monkeys as we are, let us go forth. Now, touching our first cardinal, it is as well to be candid with you at the outset. Lion-hunting I never had much taste for. I have had my share of it, and have, in fact, no stomach for it any longer. In my mind, nothing equals a quiet hand-in-pocket lounge a ramble reckless of time, place or person-a freedom that will leave you up for anything, and disposed to take your fun out of whatever turns up.

One fine sunshiny day, I well remember, as I returned from a stroll near the mosque of the Hasaneyh, my attention was attracted by a merry noisy crowd of idlers, collected in the middle of the street. The centre of attraction appeared to consist in the buffooneries of a half-naked Arab and a couple of boys, who were mutually maltreating one another, in a manner, no doubt, edifying to behold. However, not being myself up to the joke, I was turning slowly away, when the master of the ceremonies arrested me, by producing, for my especial amusement, a long, vicious-looking snake, in apparently the worst of all possible ill-humour. It erected its crest, vibrated its slender tongue, and hissed after a most choleric fashion at the retreating

spectators; but the Arab suddenly piped up a sort of tune, and in a moment the graceful reptile, returning to his master, wreathed itself round his body, and caressed him with a sneaking kindness, unenviable to share. Just then in rushed a wild harumscarum fellow, named Mohammed, an Arab servant of an English acquaintance, and stood in the centre of the ring. The snake immediately uncoiled itself, dropped to the ground, and rapidly advanced against the supposed assailant; its eyes shot fire, and all its late misanthropy revived. But Mohammed, nothing daunted, seized his adversary round the neck, and blowing violently down the distended jaws of the irritated animal, called out, in Arabic, "Die, die ;" and die it did, for the next moment the snake seemed paralyzed; the head fell lifeless on the Arab's wrist, and as soon as Mohammed released his hold, the serpent lay extended in the dust. For some moments it remained there without sense or motion, then gradually recovered from its trance.

Very much surprised, I called Mahommed, and began to blow him up for his temerity; but he laughed good-humoredly at my ignorance, telling me he had no reason for apprehending danger from any of the snake tribe-a darweesh, a serpent-charmer, having, for some good office on Mohammed's part, imparted the secret of some herb, with which he rubbed himself; and after this, no matter how deadly the species, a serpent became perfectly harmless in his hands.

That the supposed charm consists merely in some secret of this nature, I am disposed to believe from other instances that have come under my personal observation. Indeed I am convinced the reptile is neither deprived of its fangs or poisonous qualities. I remember meeting, at Waddy Halpha, with a Nubian, who came up to me, holding carelessly in one hand three or four large yellow scorpions, while in the other he carried two small serpents. The serpents were some eight or ten inches each, ash-coloured, and with a little horn, like the thorn of the rose-tree, on each side of the head. When laid down, they rolled with a sidelong motion across the path, and were scarcely distinguishable from the dust of the road. Now, if this

be the cerastes (and the reptiles in question answer the description), these snakes were amongst the most deadly of the serpent tribe; indeed the passers-by avoided them with evident alarm, keeping several yards clear of the little creatures as they toddled on. The Nubian, however, took them up again with perfect nonchalance, tossed them from hand to hand, using them completely as playthings; and, to my no small annoyance, followed me for some distance, soliciting me to purchase the lot. The scorpions lay quite stupified until my Nubian friend set them on the ground, and then they became as lively and irritable as scorpions generally are.

Now if these reptiles had been rendered innocuous, the villagers would scarcely have counterfeited an alarm they could not possibly have felt.

Although risking the charge of incredulity, I must hazard an anecdote on this subject, which I have from the best authority, albeit it is second-hand. My informant (at the time of the occurrence a resident in one of the West India Isles) told me of a neighbour and intimate acquaintance, who, in passing through a wood, was attracted by the fluttering of a bird, on the branch of a tree, some few yards distant. The bird was by her nest, and appeared to be in a perfect paroxysm of terror; the cause was soon evident: for at the foot of the tree there lay a large snake, whose eyes were intently fixed on the poor bird. Gradually the serpent raised itself to within a foot or two of the bough on which the bird still fluttered; suddenly the little creature, uttering a piercing note of terror, flew from her perch, and returned in a moment with a leaf in her bill: this it dropped on the serpent's head, who recoiled a little, but again returned to the attack; off flew the bird again, returning with a fresh supply of leaves, which she showered on her assailant, who again gave way: for some moments the attack was renewed and repulsed in the same manner-till, at length, the reptile fell stupified and powerless at the foot of the tree.

The serpent-charmer then, first enticing the reptile from his den, by the notes of his pipe, must next have recourse to some herb of a narcotic quality, as well as an antidote to the poison of the bite.

And herein lies the charm of the charmer it is a pity that all honest travellers are not permitted to have a share in the secret.

"Behold," said a Bedawee, bring. ing an enormous snake that he had murdered into the presence of Mohammed Ali-" behold what I have slain in the desert!-where is my reward?"

"And was not the desert wide enough for it and you?" was the quiet rejoinder, as the disappointed hero was sent empty away.

But let us continue our stroll. What a set of good-for-nothing vagabonds these darweeshes are!-juggling darweeshes-snake-charming darwee

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shes-howling darweeshes-dancing darweeshes-and all, begging, borrow. ing, humbugging darweeshes. Beyroot I have met with them; their caps tricked out with shreds of cloth and scraps of looking-glass, and coats of divers colours adorning their lazy backs. In Damascus, perambulating the bazaars, in a state of undissembled nudity in Jerusalem, a gentleman of that same persuasion used to parade the streets with a ragged possé commitatus, under the badge of a pea-green banner; and woe betide the Frank who did not, like Barney O'Reardon, give his reverence and suite a “good, bould offing.' But the exhibition of the dancing darweeshes at Pera tickled me amazingly.

On my first essay to witness the performance, the sultan and I most unfortunately fixed on the same time of attendance; SO on the principle, I suppose, of "too much of a good thing, &c.," while his honor was ceremoniously admitted, poor I was unceremoniously kicked out. However, like Sandy, I determined to try it again-stay, till I tell you about Sandy. You must know, then, in a rural district of the "land o' cakes," the minister of the kirk was wont annually to assemble the grown boys of his district, to display their annual proficiency in the deep study of theology. The theologians assembled at the kirk, and, batch by batch, they were admitted, to be catechised by the painstaking minister. Each batch, as it was disembogued from the interior, was naturally assailed by the expectant polloi, with "what's the question?what did the minister say?" Amongst

others, out marched our friend Sandy, an overgrown bumpkin, with a shock of fiery red hair-"and what did the minister ask you, Sandy?" "Why he asked how many commandments are there? and how many may they be?" suddenly inquired Sandy, turning questioner on his interrogator. "Why ten, to be sure, mon," replied the youth. "Try ye on-try ye on," said Sandy, eyeing the sinart respondent with a glance of pity-"try ye on, try ye onwhy I said twanty, and it would nado!" So next show-day, after the advice of Sandy, I did try on, and was admitted to the penetralia in an old pair of matslippers; opposite, and at the further side of the apartment, sat a venerable old man, with a long silvery beard: before him marched his darweeshes, in long, loose, white tunics, and caps of felt, like chimney-pots-the orchestra on my left meanwhile discoursing very execrable music on the identical instruments, as I verily believe, first fabricated by Tubal Cain. Presently the zikr, in good earnest, began; the dance commenced, and in a few moments the apartment was in a per fect whirl. The graceful girations of the performers-the face upturned to heaven-one hand with upraised palm, as if receiving blessings from above, the other bent down towards the earth, dispensing the imaginary gifts received. Each darweesheeh revolving on the left foot with such rapid motion, that the inflated robe stood out on all sides, like some monstrous parasol even the wild music kept harmony with the exciting scene-and at the instant one forgot the absurdity of the mode of worship, in the absorbing earnestness of the devotees.

Fanaticism in religion pervades every portion of the globe-from the same fell source spring the friars of Italy, the fakeers of India, the darweeshees of Egypt; yet the universal sufferance, if not actual homage, these darweeshes meet with amazes me exceedingly. Quick-witted and imaginative as the Arabs are, their superstitions are deeply imbued with the rich poetry of eastern romance. Witness the legend of the mystic light that hung in air-beams nightly upon the prophet's tomb.

Witness the fable of the fallen race of Ginn-once sole masters of this world, with their long and illustrious

line of monarchs, from Sulimann to Ghan-ìben-Ghan, all reigning in proud supremacy before Adam or Eve were thought of. Nature herself supplies matter for the marvellous; the Arab believes the falling star to be the bolt of God discharged against some wandering marid-"Saham allah fee' adoo' Ed-deen," May God transfix the enemy of the faith," is the ejaculation of the true believer, as he marks the flying meteor.

Graveyards are tenanted by ghools; efreets will rise from wells and lonesome pits to affright the consciencestricken; even the superstition that gives birth to the ktub, is not without its share of poetry-that mysterious chief of the wellees, or holy men,everywhere and nowhere-most visible in action where least visible in appearance. But what of poetry or mystery can invest the darweeshees? How Egyptians can tolerate these drones; nay, allow them to take offensive liberties with the very women of their harem, I am at a perfect nonplus to conceive.

But as we are "on the tramp," let us walk, or rather ride, to the citadel, and take a peep into the courts of justice. You can visit the new mosque and palace by the way, and even (for a consideration) have a game at the basha's billiard-table.

What western would take this bare, unfurnished hall for a high court of judicature? or these seedy-looking gentlemen in turbooshes, perched on a shelf in that corner yonder, for "judges of assize?" Where can a judge's wisdom be concentrated, unless under the judicial wig? Yet these wigless depositories of legal learning are "very Daniels" in deciding causes. Alexander never cut the Gordian knot more cleverly than the Alexandrian bench their poser in the case of the Transit Company v. Towarah thieves unknown.

The case occurred whilst I was staying at Cairo, and a curious case of Turkish jurisprudence it turned out to be. The circumstances were the following:

As one of the officers of the Transit Company was travelling, unattended, near the fourth station, in the short desert, he was accosted by four Bedawees, who presented him with a paper, folded in the shape of a letter.

Whilst occupied in opening it, the four set upon the poor Italian, strip

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ped him to the skin, and turned him, Nebuchadnezzer like, to graze, or let alone, as he thought fit; it is needless to add, the Arabs decamped with their booty, and were no more seen. Roasting under a burning sun, and many a weary mile from the city, the credulous Italian took refuge at the Stationhouse, and having borrowed a few garments, set off in due time for Cairo, and thence, without drawing bridle, he proceeded to Alexandria. company made a formal complaint to the civil authorities. The authorities made a strict investigation of the circumstances were convinced of the truth of the alleged outrage-tidings were sent to Cairo, and a search after the offenders was instituted high and low-they might as well have searched for a needle in a bundle of hay. The Alexandrian sages now assembled in Divan-it was a bad business, indeed -an officer of the Transit company had been robbed-the English were offend ed-what was to be done?-the perpetrators of the deed were heaven knows where yet the English were offended, and somebody must be hanged. The myrmidons of justice, wearied and outwitted, pounced at length on a Towarah Arab, a miscreant of established notoriety he had pillaged, plundered, and maltreated countless individualsnay, it was even whispered he had committed as many murders as if he had graduated in Tipperary, and crusaded under an altar-denouncing priest.

The Bedawee was accordingly brought up, and confronted with the Transit man. The Italian declared he could swear to the persons of his plunderers, but this was not one of them. The justices were annoyedthe case at a stand still-again they consulted-again the old argument was repeated the English were offended, and somebody must be hanged; at last the bright thought suddenly struck their worships, that although the Towarah was not concerned in the outrage in question, he was quite bad enough to have taken part in it, or any similar; so as he had already honestly earned a halter, and the real Simons Pure were not present to dispute the honor, the Towarah must be hanged. Forthwith the hapless Arab was mounted on a dromedary, and under escort of the military, set off for the desert.

Now near the fourth station-house, there is an ancient solitary tree, by Europeans named the Tree of the Desert, by Arabs, the Mother of Ragsthe Mecca pilgrims, for reasons best known to themselves, decking its gnarled boughs with votive offerings of the same. Beneath this aged patroness of old clothes the Bedawee and suite in due time arrived; a halter was suspended from a bough, and dangled ominously in mid air, the dromedary and rider led beneath it, and the noose adjusted to the Arab's neck, the dromedary was then driven out, and the poor miscreant left struggling in the agonies of death. An India passen

ger whom I met just after this occurrence, told me his party passed the place of execution while the criminal was suspended from the tree; the body was still warm, the feet but a few inches from the ground, and a placard in Turkish was affixed to the breast, purporting that the culprit having been a person of general bad character, it had seemed good to the Basha to have him put to death. There swung the Arab robber, in the lone and savage wilderness, a strange and stern monument of Turkish justiceit was the first and only instance I ever heard of being hung by proxy. What

ever may be our opinion as to Turkish justice, no one can hold a second respecting the celerity of the Turkish executive.

When sentence is passed, down goes the culprit, and in the presence of his judges, the bastinado gives him "his condign;" if it be hanging matter, he must be taken out of court, it is true, but then the nearest public fountain serves his turn, and there he swings. All this must save the conviets a vast deal of anxiety, and whilst this relief from all suspense as to his fate, is, doubtless, no small consolation to the criminal's own mind, it serves a double purpose, by testifying to all whom it may concern, that justice has both eyes open, and is wide awake.

Now lion-hunting, as I told you, being far from my intention, you must visit mosques, tombs, and palaces, as best you may, in fact, kill your lions by yourself; but before you go out on your adventures, I will "enter" you on your antiquities by setting forth

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