once the splendid capital of Lydia, the famous residence of Croesus, the resort of Persian Monarchs, and one of the most ancient and magnificent cities of the world. Now, how fallen! The ruins are, with one exception, more entirely gone to decay than those of most of the ancient cities which we have visited. No Christians reside on the spot: two Greeks only work in a mill here, and a few wretched Turkish huts are scattered among the ruins. We saw the Churches of St. John and the Virgin, the Theatre, and the building styled the Palace of Croesus; but the most striking object at Sardis is the Temple of Cybele. I was filled with wonder and awe at beholding the two stupendous columns of this edifice, which are still remaining: they are silent but impressive witnesses of the power and splendour of Antiquity. I read, amidst the ruins, the Epistle (Rev. iii. 1-6) addressed to the Church once fixed here. What an impressive warning to Christian Churches! A name to live, while dead!-Is not the state of Religion in Britain precisely such as to threaten punishment like that which has befallen Sardis? A certain portion of religion is at present popular: the world approximates a certain distance towards Religion; and many persons who would pass for religious seem disposed to advance at least half-way towards the world. Does not this neglect of watchfulness end in many defiling their garments? And if this negligence does not give place to remembrance, and repentance, and to a strengthening of the things which remain and are ready

to die, the consequences will be equally fatal!-May God preserve us from the fate of Sardis !

FROM SARDIS TO THYATIRA.

From Sardis we took the direction of Thyatira; and first had to cross the celebrated plain, on which Cyrus overthrew the Empire of Lydia. Upon arriving on the banks of the Hermus, we found that the ferry-boat had been destroyed; and that it would be necessary, in consequence, to ford the river. This appeared to be rather a dangerous enterprise, as the river is both wide and deep. Happily, a fine Turkish Youth undertook to be our guide; and, riding gallantly at our head, he conducted us to the other side in safety: the water reached to the breasts of the horses. We now approached the immense multitude of lofty Barrows, or Tumuli, which have so justly attracted the admiration of Travellers. They cover a very large extent of ground; and are, in general, of very regular formation. We were particularly struck with that which is considered the Tumulus of Halyattes; and which is, probably, the largest artificial hill in the world. But the tout ensemble, more than all, engaged my attention. What a most extraordinary burying-ground! Here, you are ready to exclaim with the Prophet-all the kings of the nations, even all of them, lie in glory, every one in his own house! (Isaiah xiv. 18.)

Beyond the Tumuli, we passed the Gygaan Lake, to the right. After a ride of six hours-and-a-half we

arrived at Marmara. This is a fine large village, with a northern aspect; and defended on the south by a rocky and precipitate hill. Two Mosques, with domes and minarets, are very conspicuous. I heard only of five or six Greek Houses, and one Church.

Thyatira: April 27, 1826—I have now the favour to write in the Sixth of the Seven Churches. It is about four hours distant from Marmara. On the way, we observed many columns and antiquities, notifying an ancient town. Mr. Arundell discovered an Inscription, containing the words, "FROM THYATIRA." Ak-hissar, the Modern Thyatira, is situated on a plain, and is embosomed in cypresses and poplars. The buildings are in general mean; but the khan in which we are at present residing is, by far, the best which I have yet seen. The Greeks are said to occupy 300 houses, and the Armenians 30. Each of them have a Church.

Here we witnessed a fine Turkish spectacle. The new Mutselim of Aidin arrived from Constantinople, with a retinue of 200 horse. They were all extremely well dressed and mounted: their turbans were white as snow, and the renowned scymitar of Turkey hung gracefully behind them. I was much struck with the lordly air which they displayed. "It is well," I thought, "for Europe, that such cavaliers have no discipline."

We paid a visit to the Church of the Greeks: it is a wretched structure. Upon opening the door, we had to descend four or five steps into the body of the building. We found a Priest, a native of Milo, who was

engaged in hearing the confessions of the people. On returning to the khan, I conversed for a considerable time, with four or five Greeks, on the study of the Scriptures-the predicted apostacy from true Christianity, and the means which were furnished for detecting it—the inutility of alms for the salvation of man—the necessity of forsaking sin, &c. Nicolas afterwards sat up with the same party till midnight, reasoning with them on important subjects. I presented the most interesting of these young men with the New Testament; and cannot but indulge the hope that a useful impression has been made on his mind.

The language addressed to Thyatira (Rev. ii. 18-29) is rather different from that of the other Epistles. The commendations (v. 19) are scarcely surpassed even in the Epistle to Philadelphia, while the conduct of some (vv. 20, 21) was impious and profligate. The Church thus exhibited a contrast of the most exalted piety with the very depths of Satan. In too many parts of Christendom we observe a similar state of things, even at this day: how important, then, the admonition, That which ye have already, hold fast till I come!

And this language is not only designed for those who have recently been brought to the knowledge of Christianity: it is a caution very needful for those who have long been acquainted with its infinite value. The most ostensible danger to Christians is rather after a perseverance of some years, than in the commencement of their Christian career. When religion appears to

heard of 800 Greek Houses and one Church, and of two Armenian Churches: the Jews also have a Synagogue. The Scriptures have been sent hither from Smyrna, by Mr. Barker; and very readily purchased.

April 29, 1826-This morning we ascended part of the steep hill on which the Acropolis is seated. On producing a compass, we found the needle powerfully affected by the iron-stone of which the hill is composed. The prospect from this eminence is extremely beautiful. The Hermus is seen dividing the plain to a great distance : and there, we recollected, was fought the great battle in which Scipio Asiaticus routed the forces of Antiochus.

From Magnesia to Smyrna is a ride of eight hours. The way leads over Mount Sipylus, and is of the most rugged and toilsome description. After travelling for thirty-one days, it was no small pleasure to me to catch sight once more of the Gulf of Smyrna; and to be approaching a place where I might enjoy a season of repose, and return once more to my regular duties. The last steps of our journey were over the delicious Plain of Smyrna. For fertility and beauty it is, probably, unrivalled in Asia.

How can I conclude, without expressing my gratitude to the Almighty, for His watchful care, extended towards us during our whole tour! The hope of His love and favour is the Christian's solace and happiness, as long as he lives upon the earth. And now, having had this new evidence of them, may I be excited to more fervent devotion and to more active obedience !