ques

as a perfect man of business and master of all tions that come up, and the facts bearing upon them ; but still more highly of the great duke as the most candid, satisfactory diplomat he had ever met: patient in listening, courteous in manner, seeking information, and, when his judgment was settled, clear, liberal, and decided in stating it. "Now, Mr. McLane,' he would often say to me in such discussions, I do not understand that matter. Explain it to me. Up to such a point we are agreed. There we begin to differ. You hold that course, I think this view best; now then explain,' etc. So that," Mr. McLane added, "I never left him in any doubt as to his opinion on any controverted question, nor as to how far we agreed, and where and how we differed."

Returning to a hasty dinner before embarking, the doubtful question arose as to how we were to travel on the Continent. This speculation soon received a solution in a very kind note from Sir Robert Inglis, urging or rather insisting on our use of his travelling barouche, to be found at Ostend, an order for it being inclosed, for our summer tour on the Continent, and to be redeposited, on our return, at an hotel named, either at Calais or Paris. This liberal offer, twice repeated, was at length accepted with thanks, as giving us more of comfort and freedom of movement in our journey than we could otherwise have commanded. And so, good-night to England! Henceforth Germany, or France, or Switzerland is to be my theme, which, if you feel with me, will be a change

for the worse. The ladies of our party are confident, and promise themselves great things; but for myself, I cling to England with filial affection doubly strengthened by our present visit.

I

CHAPTER XIII.

THE CONTINENT: 1830.

WRITE from this old town of Ghent on the twelfth day of August. Our passage across the channel was stormy, but daylight soon brought us into smooth water and alongside the pier of Ostend, surrounded by strange faces and strange sounds. The morning opened dark but soon brightened. The custom-house, our dread, gave us no trouble. The revolution in Paris had converted all into Republicans, and the very name of "American" was sacred in their ears. "Je suis Américain," was an 66 open sesame" for all that I wanted to see, know, or do. My passport was viséd without being looked at, my baggage unquestioned, my trunk keys refused when proffered, and the usual fee declined. All this I received as a tribute to my country, and warmly thanked the chief official for it. His rejoinder was "Ah, vous êtes Américain! C'est une Paradis Terrestre !" Finding, on inquiry, that Sir Robert's barouche was not here, but at Brussels, I made choice of a comfortable vehicle and good driver to take us there. .

This morning, Thursday, breakfast was scarcely finished when Mr. Cornelisson of the University of

He

Ghent, to whom I had sent my card and letter of introduction the evening before, was announced. immediately planned our day for us, and while our carriage was getting ready set off for the university, there to meet us. This is a noble specimen of royal patronage, doing in six years the work of a century in fostering education and science. Its present number of students is five hundred. Fortunately this was the day of the commencement ceremonial, which, however, was not till three P. M., so we bade Mr. Cornelisson farewell till that hour. Finding our way to the cathedral, we entered during high mass, the splendor of which and its impressiveness on the imagination, I had never before witnessed, nor even conceived.

Three o'clock found us again at the university, where, with great pomp, in the quasi presence of majesty, amid the flourish of trumpets, the rewards were declared, and medals of honor hung round the necks of the successful students as they kneeled to receive them at the hands of the president of the university. One touching incident occurred. The father of one of the first medalists, a chief burgher of the city, was seated on the stage when his son advanced, about to kneel to the president, but a wave of hands directed him to his father, on kneeling to whom the chain of gold, with its accompanying medal, was hung upon his neck amid the plaudits of all.

After a drive through the public grounds we visited the convent.of, the last great nunnery remaining in the Netherlands. Having inspected the interior,

we attended the chapel at vespers, where seven hundred kneeling figures without form, except here and there two outstretched arms from under their long veils, black below and white above, formed a spectacle as striking as it was new. But the interior of the convent was neither melancholy nor romantic, being self-supporting through teaching and needlework. I heard as hearty a laugh from the lady abbess, in answer to some simple question of mine, as I ever heard. The sisters take no vows, and may quit at any time they please, though my conductress said that in her own case she was not likely to do so, as she was happier than a queen; "for queens," said she, "sometimes have to flee from their homes, as the Queen of France the other day." We parted with mutual kindly feelings.

The Belgians appear to be both by nature and habit a very thriving, contented people. They work moderately, live comfortably, and look healthy and long-lived. The men you see toward evening gathering into circles in their picturesque caps and large silver shoe-buckles, playing at quoits, or with their favorite pipe and pot of ale, not carousing, but quietly sitting on the "dry, smooth, shaven green," or on benches under the shade of some ancestral tree at the door of a temperate-looking, quiet ale-house. The women, meanwhile, at such hour, appear in their best, — gold earrings, rich lace caps, or fringed cloaks and hoods, spinning or knitting just outside their door, with children in groups of eight or ten engaged in play, or work so light that they make play of it.