We parted with him with regret and some anxiety for his safety, as the day soon after became dark and stormy. He is a fair specimen of educated young Englishmen, not over refined in sentiment or manners, but simple and polite, having learning without pedantry, and science and accomplishment without conceit. Science being common makes it sit more easily upon the young men here than with us. Mr. Hill, for instance, is a learned and skillful mineralogist and entomologist without thinking his knowledge anything peculiar. Nor, in truth, is it. Thus, on Skiddaw, we meet at least six or eight young men strolling over its varied surface, some botanizing, with their tin cases at their backs, some with their hammers and bags of specimens, and one with his little net for catching insects and bottles for preserving them, all earnest in their own pursuits and happy in them. Thus does education tell more here than with us for the gratification of after life. The same difference, too, I have noticed in female education. Modern languages, when acquired, are more familiarly understood, and such skill with the pencil as with us would make an artist, seems to belong here to every welleducated young woman.

Returning through a storm of rain, which almost flooded us in our open boat, to our inn, we took a hasty lunch and came on to Penrith, six miles; quitting with regret the region of the lakes, where the gratification of months, I may say, has been crowded into the space of a few days. The scenery in leaving Ullswater immediately changed, and, though rich,

was no longer picturesque. After leaving Penrith, twelve miles brought us to Carlisle. This began again to be classic ground. We thought of the Roman wall, and we looked with respect at the castle where the unhappy Mary was confined, the spot where McIvor suffered, and the Solway Sands, where Redgauntlet made his abode among the fishermen. From Carlisle, nine miles to the last English village on the border. Three miles further, two turnpike gates, close together, mark the now peaceful boundary line, one on the English the other on the Scotch side. Immediately after crossing we entered into a most romantic region. The banks of the Esk, with precipitous sides and noble woods and dark ravines, reminding us of Scott's finest pictures, and justifying them all. A good Scotch tea with all its accompaniments is now sending us to a welcome bed at Langholm.

A1

CHAPTER XI.

EDINBURGH SOCIETY: 1830.

T Selkirk we struck off from the direct road to Edinburgh, to take Abbotsford and Melrose in our way. On approaching Sir Walter Scott's we were struck with the noble castellated mansion, the splendid liveries, etc., an air of luxury, in short, I had not anticipated. Finding them not at home, I left our letter, together with my card, and drove on about two miles further, to "Chiefswood," where resides his daughter, Mrs. Lockhart, to whom we had also a letter from Mrs. Heber. Leaving our letter here also, from the same cause, we proceeded to visit an old friend whom we were certain of finding, I mean Melrose Abbey. While wandering among these splendid ruins, monuments equally of Gothic taste and modern barbarism, which filled us all with anger as well as admiration, a rather tall gentleman came in, and approaching us, introduced himself as Mr. Lockhart, saying that he and Mrs. L. and her father had reached home very shortly after we had quitted the house, and that he had followed us with all speed, the bearer of an invitation from both to spend that day with him and the next with Sir Walter and Miss Scott. The invitation was so complimentary, and

the manner of it so kind, that the temptation to accept was great, but, on the whole, we thought it best to go on, promising, at his request, a visit on our return. Mr. Lockhart's appearance and manner are rather American than British; of a thin and rather slight figure, black hair, face pallid, approaching to sallow, and with a dash of bilious in his sentiments as well as his complexion. After some talk he introduced us to the clerk of the parish, a gossiping old man who just then entered the abbey, as the original of one of Scott's characters, and he again to his friend, Captain C―, another original. With so many topics of in-terest, though near five o'clock, we could hardly break away, but, though the dinner might wait our leisure,. we had thirty five miles to drive before we reached it, and these became very long as the night drew on, if this may be called night where there is no darkness.. At half past ten we could still read large print by the twilight. We arrived about midnight at the metropolis of the north, and found our rooms at 19 Princess Street.

Saturday, July 17.-Up betimes and favored with a clear day, which is a rare thing with us. Walked to Dr. Chalmers', where we were kindly received by his wife, a very lovely and intelligent woman, three silent daughters, and the doctor, with characteristic frankness and simplicity. Some half dozen students or licentiates completed our breakfast circle. A chapter in the Bible and family prayers, all kneeling, was a preparation for breakfast which made us think of home. Three hours passed away

quickly and pleasantly at and around the table, and by that time we were so much pleased with each other that instead of separating we went out together, and made a new engagement for Monday morning. Before parting Dr. Chalmers wrote me a bundle of notes addressed to professors and leading literary men, in order that I might extend my acquaintance at my leisure.

At two o'clock Mr. Jeffrey called on us with an apology from his wife, who had been prevented from coming in town by the weather; we had already received a note asking us to dine with them to-day. Soon after his visit we ordered the carriage and drove out, about six miles, to Milburn Tower, the very beautiful castellated mansion of Sir Robert Liston, taking it on our way to dinner at Craig Crook, Mr. Jeffrey's country-seat. The ladies remained in the carriage. I was ushered into a splendid Gothic drawing-room, panneled with cedar, and after a short time Sir Robert came in apologizing for the delay, as he was dressing to go out to dinner. At the age of eighty-six he is as hale and hearty as with us are most men at sixty.

Just saved our distance for dinner at Craig Crook. We were received by Mrs. Jeffrey like old friends. She declared she would have known us both, and we certainly should her, by looks, probably, but, without question, by voice and laugh, which, in this land of Ossian, I may say, came o'er me like the days of very youth. Their mansion is a modernized chapelry of the palace of Holyrood, having the picturesqueness of