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Leaving the Danube at Ulm, famous in history, the Rob Roy was sent by rail to Frederickshafen, on the Swiss Lake of Constance, upon which the canoe was soon launched, and a sail was taken around that romantic sheet of water, then down its outlet, the "arrowy Rhine," to Schaffhausen, the finest of European waterfalls; then by rail again to Lake Zurich, the centre of the region where gather the Swiss tourists, for whom arise the huge hotels which seem to be managed with the special view of demonstrating the problem of giving the least accommodation for the most money.

to have had his only serious occasion for faultfinding during his whole voyage. His pet, the Rob Roy, was badly treated. He had confided her to the care of a man who seemed to be a stolid, honest fellow; but she had "been sadly tumbled about, filled with water, the seat cast off and floating outside, the covering deranged, the sails untied, and the sacred paddle defiled by clumsy hands. The man who suffered this to be perpetrated," says Mr. Macgregor, "will not, I hope, forget the Anglo-German-French set-down he received (with a half-franc); and I shall not in future forget the time-honored practice of carrying the canoe, invariably, into the hotel."

This practice of carrying the canoe to the hotel every evening gave rise to a multitude of pleasant scenes; the children, whether of larger or smaller growth, taking immense delight in following the vessel in its land passage, and, in case of need, aiding in its transport. Let the following serve as an example of many :

"Frequent intercourse with natives of strange countries, where there is no common language between them and the tourist, will gradually teach him a "sign language," which suits all people alike. Thus, in any place, no matter what was their dialect, it was always easy to induce one or two men to aid in carrying the canoe. The formula for this was something in the following style:

"If you wish to live well in Switzerland," says Mr. Macgregor, "go to German hotels, and avoid the grand barracks reared on every view-point for the English tourist. See how the omnibus from the train or steamer pours down its victims into the landlord's arms. The whole party, men, women, and children, are so demure, so afraid of themselves, that the hotel-keeper does just what he likes with them, every one. As a helpless bachelor, and without a courier or heavy baggage, I enter too, and venture to order a cutlet and potatoes. After half an hour two chops come and spinach, cach just one bite, and cold. I ask for fruit, and some pears are presented that grate on the knife, with a minute bunch of grapes-good ones, I will acknowledge. For this I pay two shillings. Next day I row down the lake and "I first got the boat on shore, and a crowd order, just as before, a cutlet, potatoes, and of course soon collected, while I arranged its fruit. Presently appear two luscious veal-cut- interior, and spunged out the splashed water, lets, with splendid potatoes, and famous hot and fastened the cover down. Then, tightenplates; and a fruit-basket teeming gracefully ing my belt for a walk, I looked round with a with large clusters of magnificent grapes, kind smile, and selecting a likely man, I would peaches, pears, all gushing with juice, mellow address him in English deliberately as follows apples and rosy plums. For this I pay one shil--suiting each action to the word, for I have ling and sixpence. The secret is, that the Germans won't pay the prices which the English fear to grumble at, and won't put up with the articles the English fear to refuse."

always found that sign language is made more natural when you speak your own tongue all the time you are acting: 'Well, now, I think as you have looked on enough and have seen At a village on the lake our canoeist seems all you want, it's about time to go to a hotel, a

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Gasthaus. Here! you -yes, you!-just take that end of the boat up, 80- -gently, langsam! langsam! - all right, yes, under your arm, like this- now march off to the best hotel, Gasthaus.'

"Then the procession naturally formed itself. The most humorous boys of course took precedence, because of services willing to be performed; and, meanwhile, they gratuitously danced about and under the canoe like the Fauns around Silenus. Women only came near and waited modestly till the throng had passed. The seniors of the place kept on the safer confines of the movement, where dignity of gait might comport with close observation."

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From Lake Zurich to Lake Zug is some ten miles, over a high neck of forest land, over which the canoe was taken by cart, the driver whereof was vastly proud of his novel freight. After sailing around this pretty lake, studded with islands, the Rob Roy rumbled by cart over to the Lake of Lucerne, the Sea of the Four Cantons, famous in Swiss story, which Mr. Macgregor thinks "the prettiest lake in the world." "Like other people," he says, "and at

SHIRKING A WATERFALL.

SAILING ON LAKE ZUG.

| other times, I had traversed this beautiful water of the Four Cantons; but those only who have seen it well by steamer and by walking, so as to know how it juts in and winds around an intricate geography, can imagine how much better you may follow and grasp its beauties by searching them out alone and in a canoe. thus I could penetrate all the wooded nooks, and dwell upon each view-point, and visit the

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rocky islets, and wait long, longer-as long as I pleased

before some lofty berg, while the ground-swell gently undulated, and the passing cloud shaded the hill with gray, and the red flag of a steamer fluttered in a distant sunbeam, and the plash of a barge's oar broke on the boatman's song; every thing around changing just a little, and the stream of inward thought and admiration changing too as it flowed; but all the time, and when the eye came back to it again, there was the same grand mountain, still the same."

The outlet of the Sea of the Four Cantons is the Reuss, which falls into the Aar, and this again into the Rhine. The Reuss is a rapid stream, and nobody could tell whether it was boatable, though there was a

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VOL. XXXIII.-No. 197.-QQ

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story of a man who had gone into it with a boat, was arrested by the police, and punished for thus periling his life. However, Mr. Macgregor resolved to try it. The voyage turned out rather perilous, and he had more than one occasion to shirk a waterfall. At length he came to a place where the river ran swiftly through a gorge with steep, rocky banks, the channel filled with rocks and rapids. He had been warned of this bad place, but had forgotten the admonition. The river here makes a series of sharp turns, almost like the figure 8, gliding over a sloping ledge of flat rocks lying athwart the stream only a few inches below the surface. Over this the Rob Roy swept, the keel and sides grinding and bumping on the stones, or slipping over the soft moss which clothed their sides. Right in front was the peculiar wave, always raised when a

main stream converges as it rushes down a narrow neck. The trough of this wave was two feet below the level of the surface, the crest of the wave four feet above, so that there was six feet of wave through which the Rob Roy must plunge bodily; behind this main wave was another but smaller. What was behind that? If it was a rock, then the last hour of the Rob Roy, and most likely of her Captain, had come. The canoe plunged headlong into the shining mound of water. The canoeman shut his eyes, clenched his teeth, and clutched his paddle as he saw her sharp prow deeply buried, and before she could rise the mass of solid water struck him with a heavy blow full in the breast, closing round his neck, as if cold hands had gripped him, quite taking away his breath. An instant after there was another slap and

PASSING THE RAPIDS OF THE REUSS.

clutch, but feebler, from the lesser wave, a whirl in the eddy below, and the gallant little Rob Roy slowly rose from under a load of water. The peril was seen, encountered, and overpast in a moment. Hardly a drop of water had got inside under the waterproof covering, and though the breast of the voyager and all his front was drenched, his back was hardly wet in driving through the waves.

From the Reuss the Rob Roy passed into the Aar, not without some adventures, such as being fixed on a waterfall, and from the Aar into

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the Rhine, once more, at Waldschut "Forest | spectacled personage, most likely a University End." It was now late in September, and the Professor, or a Doctor of Philosophy at least, Rob Roy had wet her keel in the waters of En- called out, "Ah, ah! Valtarescott!" manifestgland, Holland, Belgium, France, Wurtemburg, ing thereby his own acquaintance with the novBavaria, Baden, Rhenish Prussia, the Palatin-els of the great Wizard of the North. ate, Switzerland, and the Grand Duchy of Hohenzollern Sigmaringen, with a population of 52,000, and a sovereign bearing the sounding title of "His Royal Serene Highness the Hereditary Prince of Hohenzollern Sigmaringen," of sufficiently pure blood, we believe, to entitle his family to furnish husbands or wives to the reigning families of Europe.

Down the Rhine once more, but still far above the point where the Rob Roy had sailed two months before; but whither the fame of the little canoe had preceded her, and where the good burgers made unavailing efforts to pronounce her name; some hailing her as the "Roab Ro," others as the Rub-ree; while a

WASHING LARGE.

Down the rapid Rhine again, paddling vigorously, and shooting the rapids in all sorts of ways until Bale was reached. Here at the turning point, where the Rhine bends from west to north, and seeks the sea, there were routes innumerable which might be taken homeward.

The one finally chosen led across the range of the Vosges, over which the Rob Roy was borne by rail and cart to the head-waters of the Moselle, down which she was paddled for a while; thence again carted to the upper course of the Meurthe, which seemed lined with washing barges and fishermen, patiently waiting for a nibble, which they rarely got; then again

by canal and railway to the Marne, down which the little canoe floated for 200 miles, with little of adventure, saving the annoying passages of a few barrages or "barriers." One of these consisted of three low steps reaching quite across the stream, each having a line of iron posts, with connecting chains, reaching from the top of one to the bottom of that below. The space between these posts was only an inch or two greater than the breadth of the Rob Roy, and to steer

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through was a delicate task. But a group of navvies had gathered to see what the Englishman would do. So he resolved to try the passage; but the boat got entangled in the chains, and the Captain got out quietly into the water, whistling as though all was just as it should be, lifted the canoe through, and got in dripping wet, and paddled off amidst the cheers of the crowd.

Again, hoping to cut off a long bend, he turned into a narrow canal. But soon the channel became so thoroughly filled with grass and weeds that it was just like a

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hay-field, with grass four feet high ready for mowing. Through this the canoe was pushed for miles under a hot sun. But at length the canal struck the river again, and the Rob Roy glided down Paris-ward until it entered the Seine.

trees get fewer as walls increase; barges line the banks; commerce and its movements, luxury and its adornments; 'spires and cupolas grow out of the dim horizon, and the hum of life gets deeper and busier, while the pretty little tinkling sound of the river waters yields to the roar of traffic, and to that indescribable thrill which throbs in the air around this capital of the Continent, the centre of the politics, the focus of the pleasure and splendor of the world."

"The gradual approach to Paris by gliding down the Seine," writes Mr. Macgregor, "was altogether a new sensation. By diligence, railway, or steamer, you have nothing like it-not certainly by walking into Paris along a dusty road. For now I was smoothly carried on a wide and winding river, with nothing to do but to look and listen, while the splendid er thence to Dover, and then by rail again to panorama majestically unfolds. Villas thick-London.

Here ended the voyage of the Rob Roy. Homeward she went by rail to Calais, by steam

en, gardens get smaller as houses are closer; Our country furnishes a field for canoe voy

ages which would exceed in pleasure and interest that of the Rob Roy. Forty-eight hours from New York, by steamer or rail, would land the canoe at the very head-waters of either the Connecticut, the Hudson, the Delaware, or the Susquehanna. For a bolder journey, why not go down the Saint Lawrence, from Lake Ontario, sailing or paddling among the Thonsand Isles, shooting the Rapids, passing Montreal and Quebec, and going up the lakelike Saguenay?

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