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It certainly does not convey an ade- always to head-quarters; for finding quate idea of the actual height; but that the steamer was lying at no great the whole, as a richly beautiful and distance, we went, and discovered diversified picture, is singularly en- from the captain that she was going chanting and unique.
at her usual hour. We had time Schaffhausen is pleasantly situated enough to see all that is worthy of directly on the Rhine. It is peculiar observation in Zurich. Though the for the antique architecture of its most important manufacturing town houses, whose fronts and projecting in Switzerland, with its 14,000 inhaoriel windows are decorated with bitants, it presents none of the draw. carvings and stucco-work. There backs of such towns in general, but are a few remains of the fresco paint- is a remarkably pleasant and inviting ings with which many of the houses locality for a residence. It lies on were originally entirely covered out- the Limmat, just where it issues out side. But no tourist ought to place of the lake in a rapid and healthful himself elsewhere than at the Weber stream, as clear as crystal. We looked Hotel Though remote from the at the cathedral, or Gross Münster, town, and consequently not much with respect and interest, not only as frequented, save by tourists in the venerable from its age, having been season, the charges are as reasonable built in the 10th or 11th century, but as at other hotels, while the comfort also as having been the scene of the and pleasure of it are first-rate. A labours of the bold and faithful Reforvoiture took us very early on Monday mer, Zwingle. The house where he morning, at the same small charge as passed the last six years of his life, is the omnibus, to Schaffhausen ; and still standing; it is No. 185, in the at seven o'clock we found ourselves Gross Stadt. The church of St. Peter, seated in the coupé of the diligence, with the large clock, on the left bank of the conductor or guard making the the Limmat, had for its minister, for third, for Zurich. After his polite- twenty-three years, Lavater, who was ness had effected as long an absti- born at Zurich. On the capture of the nence from his cigar as he could well town by the French army,in Sept. 1799, endure, he placed himself on the top he was shot within a few steps of his of the vehicle greatly to our relief, own door, by a brutal French soldier, and to the advantage of his own fa- to whom, but two minutes before, he vourite occupation. The morning had given wine and offered money, was beautiful, and the country was and while he was in the act of assistpretty, though presenting no peculiaring another soldier who had been features of interest, save our first in- wounded. A high reward was offered troduction to the snowy Alps with the by Massena, the French commander, Rigi in the middle distance. The for the discovery of the murderer ; descent upon Zurich, between vine- but though known to Lavater and his yards and gardens, amidst neat villas family, he refrained from informing and taverns, with the windings of the against him. After lingering through Limmat, and the lake and town of three months of excruciating agony, Zurich in front, is very pleasing. We he expired at the parsonage, Jan. 2, arrived at the Baur Hotel, a large, 1801. We visited the town library. It handsome, and comfortable house, contains 45,500 printed volumes and about twelve o'clock. Wishing to get MSS. We saw the three autograph to Zug that night, we enquired about Latin letters of Lady Jane Grey, ad. the steamer, which we had learnt dressed to Bullinger, in a beautifully sails every afternoon up the lake at clear and regular hand: also Zwingle's three o'clock. The waiter informed Greek Bible, with marginal notes, us that it was laid up under repair, chiefly Hebrew, by himself: also a and that we could not proceed. Roman inscription, giving the ancient Whether he spoke according to in- name of Zurich, Turicum; a very old formation, or it was only a trick to and curious globe of large dimensions: detain us, I cannot say: but it was and a very interesting model in relief one instance amongst others in which of a large part of Switzerland. It was is learnt the importance of going impossible not to contemplate with
peculiar interest a place so historically landed at Horgen soon after five remarkable in connexion with the o'clock. We were told at the Schwan Reformation. It was here that it first that there was no carriage of any kind commenced in Switzerland, under the to be had. We suspected a trick to guidance and preaching of Zwingle, detain us, and as the place looked in 1519. It had, at an earlier period, anything but inviting, we sallied forth afforded shelter to Arnold, of Brescia, to enquire in all directions. Presently when driven out of Italy for inveigh- the ostler came to tell us that he had ing against the temporal power of the got a voiteur, and that we could proPope. It was the asylum of many
ceed. We had no
sooner started eminent British Protestants, banished than we found our poor horse was so by the persecutions of the reign of lame that it could scarcely move. Queen Mary, who met with a friendly The sun was nearly setting, and we reception from its inhabitants during knew that under the most favourable their exile. The first entire English circumstances, we had a drive before version of the Bible, by Miles Cover- us of nearly three hours. We began dale, was printed here in 1535. to think that we had done wrong in
Zurich is the native place of Ham- not making the most of our quarters merlin, the reformer ; of Gessner, the at the Schwan. However, soon we poet; and Gessner, the naturalist; of were amply repaid for the step we Lavater, and of Pestalozzi.
had taken. For no consideration At Fuseli's shop, near the stone would we have missed the effect of bridge, we bought Keller's admirable the sun-set on the snowy Alps, as we map of Switzerland, which every one leisurely went up the long ascent should possess who travels through from Horgen. The distant peaks and that country. Soon after three o'clock, glaciers of the Alps of Glarus, Uri, we started in the steamer up the lake and Schwytz were tinged with the for Horgen. The lake has no pre- most delicate pink by the sinking tensions to grandeur of scenery, but rays. The effect was most enchantit has a charm peculiarly its own- ing; and we agreed that it was worth that of life and rich cultivation. Its any sacrifice. We made better proborders are a bee-hive, teeming with gress however than we anticipated, for population, and are embellished and “coachman” got a nimbler steed enlivened at every step by the work at a half-way house, and we arrived
The hills around it are less at the Hirsch Hotel, in Zug, about than 3000 feet high above the sea, nine o'clock, rather too late for the and descend in gentle slopes to the lovely scenery in the valley of the water's edge, wooded on their tops, Sihl, which we crossed by a wooden clad with vineyards, orchards, and covered bridge, dividing the cantons gardens on their slopes, and carpetted of Zurich and Zug. I have never with verdant pastures, or crops of been able to make out exactly the grain at their feet. The hills from meaning of those huge heavy covers one end to the other are dotted with to the bridges which are so common white houses, villas of citizens, and in Switzerland. The only intent that çottages and farms. Every little I could hear of is to protect the bridge stream descending from the hill is from the weather. Zug is surrounded compelled to do duty by turning some by old walls, and has an antiquated mill; at the mouths of the vallies en
appearance, which, along with its ormous factories are erected, and thus position close upon the lake, gives it the shores of the lake on either side
a peculiar interest. There are rehave almost the appearance of a vast mains also of the fresco paintings outuninterrupted village. The effect of side the houses, especially in front of this lively foreground is heightened our hotel, which is very old fashioned, appearance
of the snowy peaks being built round a yard, with galleries of the Sentis, Dödi, and Glärnisch, opening to the rooms on the second which are seen at different points, story, and open at the top. The next peering above the nearer hills. The day was a market or fair, and the lake is about twenty-six miles long, town was full of the natives, which and not more than three broad. We
gave us a good opportunity for seeing
the curious variety of their grotesque
consists of a conglomerated or pudand fanciful costumes.
ding stone, formed of rounded masses Just out of the town, on a terrace of other rocks cemented together. towards the lake, we had a magnificent From the nature of the structure of view of the snowy Alps. The inha- this kind of rock, it is very liable to bitants, about 3,200 in number, are become cracked ; and if rain water exclusively Roman Catholics. There or springs penetrate these fissures, is a Capuchin convent and nunnery they will not fail to moisten or disin Zug. As our real object was to solve the unctuous beds of clay ascend Rigi, we sent our portmanteau which separate the nagelflue from the to Lucerne, by Diligence, only taking strata below, and cause large portions what I could carry on horseback. It of it to detach themselves from the was another lovely morning, and we mass. The strata of the Rossberg took a boat to the head of the lake, are tilted up from the side of the lake which is eight miles long, and not a of Zug, and slope down to Goldau mile broad. Yet it possesses exqui- like the roof of a house. We clearly site beauty. Before us, on the south, discovered the slanting direction of we had the Rigi, rising abruptly from the seams which part the strata, as the water's edge, and presenting its we went towards it from Arth. If, precipices towards it, and forming a therefore, the clay which fills these feature of considerable grandeur in seams be washed out by rains, or be conjunction with the Pilatus rising reduced to the state of a viscous or behind it. The Rossberg rising in slimy mud, it is evident that such the south-east, is lofty and steep. portions of the rock as have been The lake at its base is not less than detached from the rest by the fissures 1200 feet deep. In two hours we above alluded to, must slip down, were at the little town of Arth, at the like the masses of snow which fall head of the lake, containing above from the roof of a house, as soon as 2000 inhabitants, Roman Catholic, the lower side is thawed, or as a vessel and charmingly situated on the lake, when launched slides down the inbetween the base of the Rossberg clined plane, properly greased to and the Rigi.
hasten its descent. The good landlady at the Schwarzer The vacant space along the top of Adler, or Black Eagle, introduced to the mountain, caused by the descent us an intelligent looking guide, and of a portion of it, calculated to have strongly recommended us to take been three miles long, 1000 feet broad, him. We were now commencing the and 100 feet thick, and a small fragdifficulties of Swiss travelling; and ment at its further extremity, which feeling somewhat nervous
remained when the rest broke off, are engage Mons. Alois at least for a week, also very apparent, and assist in tellto strangeness of so doing, we agreed ing the story. The long and wide inas far as Interlachen. His terms clined plane forming the side of the were reasonable, six francs a-day, he mountain, now ploughed up and scaripaying all his own expenses, two days fied, as it were, was previously covered over-pay for return; and his creden- with fields, woods, and houses. Very tials, contained in a book which he touching particulars are left on record shewed us, were very satisfactory. of the ravages occasioned by the fall He had high testimonials from Dr. of the Rossberg. Suffice it to say, Jelf, of Oxford, Mr. Monckton, and that the effects of this terrible conother names well known to us. I vulsion were the entire destruction mounted my steed, and we proceeded of the villages of Goldau, Bussingen, up the lovely vale to Goldau, where Rothen, and a part of Lowertz; the our joyous and happy feelings were rich pasturages in the valley and on suddenly damped by the evident the slope of the mountain, entirely marks of the catastrophe of 1806, the overwhelmed by it and ruined, were particulars of which our guide pro
estimated to be worth £150,000. ceeded to give us.
111 houses, and more than 200 The Rossberg is a mountain nearly stables and chalets were buried under 5000 feet high; the upper part of it
the debris of rocks which of themselves form hills several hundred feet to create a chastened and subdued high. More than 450 human beings feeling of delight which was safest perished by this catastrophe, and and best for us amidst so much that whole herds of cattle were swept away, was enjoyable. But where is the rose Five minutes sufficed to complete the without its thorn, or the cup without work of destruction.
its mixed ingredients ? There is wisThe lake of Lowertz was diminished dom and mercy in the appointment; one quarter in consequence of the and if the dark cloud sets off the avalanche of mud and rubbish which bright and dazzling picture to advanentered it, and its waters were thrown tage, we may depend upon it that up in a wave, seventy feet high, to the there is benefit in those occurrences of opposite bank, so as to cover the pic- life, the melancholy influence of which turesque island, and sweep away a we are apt to think we could dispense small chapel which stood upon it. with. We must not forget to bear in
It was a melancholy spectacle, and mind that they have a bearing on the many glances which we could not other considerations which, without fail to take of the ruptured Rossberg, their influence, might prove anything as we ascended Rigi, were calculated but for our gain.
(To be continued.)
Take in, O Sea! thy whole extent,
Like some inferior firmament.
And courteously deposit there
Of faith, thy Maker's impress wear.
Before us, a broad, shoreless sea,
Aspire to scan infinity,
(God's holy Word of light and love,)
Cast down so freely from above;
A knowledge more than meet to gain,
Whose notes no voice returns again,)
Whate'er of wisdom God has given,
And sweet was the music they sent to the shore:
Their beautiful anthem peal’d on as before.
may be glassing
Still, Lord I let my praises rise ever to Thee,
THE ITALIAN SWISS PROTESTANTS OF THE GRISONS. By
Dr. MARRIOTT. With two Introductory Prefaces by the Hon. and Rev, Baptist W. Noel, M.A.; and the Rev. James Currie, Rusholme, Manchester,
Partridge and Oakey, London. The productions of the press are not Unquestionably the grand reform to be valued by their bulk; the real that needs to be effected amongst us value is to be estimated by the quan- of this highly favoured nation, is the tum of new and useful information breaking down and bringing to the thrown into the understanding, and, ground of that spirit of selfishness above all, by the degree of practical which shuts up man within the coninfluence in a moral and religious tracted limits of his own imagined point of view to which that informa- benefit, and checks the sympathies tion leads.
which ought to be of an expansive It may be thought strange to de- and diffusive character. It is this vote to our Review department a little selfishness which forms the intolerant fourpenny tract of forty pages, but bigotry in our Church, and the secwe can promise our readers, from this tarian virulence amongst Dissenters apparently scanty source, a treat of which effectually nullifies and counno common interest, while many of teracts the law of love, and presents them, we trust, will be tempted by to the world the wretched spectacle this affecting narrative, to give them- of the Church in her sullied and selves, through this channel, the riven garments. “ All seek their luxury of doing good.
Men will “ look on their own In such reflections as are suggested things, not on the things of others." at the commencement of a new year, They will not “bear one anothers we are solemnly impressed with the burdens." conviction that if they who wield the And it is this selfishness which public press would rightly discharge presents the tremendously fearful pictheir responsibility, they must have ture in this nation of the highest their eye on the aspect of the times, luxury and self-indulgence and overand urge the professing Christian whelming wealth on the one hand, world to the discharge of such duties and the most appalling depth of as they manifestly dictate. What wretchedness, and degradation, and godly man for a moment can doubt suffering on the other. Yes, and but that God has a controversy with which presents further, the spectacle this nation? Or who can do other- of a Christian nation raised up to wise than tremble for the ark in the heaven in Christian privilege and midst of us ? The most superficial knowledge, but failing to manifest a observer of passing events must be diffusiveness of its Christianity prostruck with the remarkable position portioned to its powers, and to the of jeopardy in which our dearest in- necessities and claims, aye, and the terests are placed. As Christians, cries, of the world at large. We have then, our evident duty is to be con- the loaf in Britain, and what poor sidering wherefore the Lord contends scanty crumbs steal out of our abunwith us, and why his jealousy is dance for foreign need! We are very burning; and to be asking ourselves, guilty concerning our brother both at individually and collectively, what it home and abroad, both as it respects is we have to put away, and what to the bread that perishes, and the bread be doing, in order that the Lord may which endures unto everlasting life. be incline to pity his people, and re
And thus selfishness, as it is our pent him of the evil; and at all events, national sin and guilt, so, if not that be able to abide the day checked, will prove our national of his coming, when he comes as a ruin. God is not mocked. He tells refiner's fire, and like fuller's soap. us plainly why some are permitted to