the highest rank take into dinner the two ladies whose right of precedence is superior to that of the others. Now suppose eighteen guests are left, six only of them being ladies, the hostess prepares twelve slips of paper, upon six of which she writes the names of the ladies, and after being folded the slips are brought round on a salver; the twelve gentlemen each take a slip, and those who draw blanks go in to dinner by themselves, while he who has drawn a lady presents his slip to her, and takes her in to dinner. It is in this way her Grace's guests are seated at her table.

Every day, the weather permitting, I was in the park and around the castle with my camera, and had the good fortune to obtain several negatives which were afterwards enlarged.

I arrived on a Monday afternoon, and my visit terminated on the Saturday. On the day previous Mr. Doyle asked me whether I had seen or heard of the Duchess's "terrible" book. It appeared that at Raby, as in many country houses, a book is kept for visitors to contribute some impression of their stay. Mr. Doyle explained that after dinner this "terrible" book would be placed in the hall, and each guest who

S

was about to leave was expected to write his name and address and fill in answers to queries under certain headings.

It was a curious and interesting book, with many quaint and amusing entries in it. It is believed that it was Lord Bennet who inscribed the following farewell lines :

"A pity at Raby

There isn't a baby."

Mr. Doyle's contribution was a most charming pen-and-ink sketch. There is a lake in front of the south side of the castle; and, with the castle for a background, he had drawn the Duchess on the bank fishing. There was the float on the water, while below it were the line and bait, around which swam numerous fishes, the head of a very large one being that of Doyle himself, who evidently is on the point of taking the Duchess's bait—that is, of accepting her invitation to the castle.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Visit to the Isle of Skye, 1876 and 1877: Various Routes-The Scenery between Dingwall and Portree-Sligachan to Loch Coruisk described -Journey to Dunvegan Castle-The Landlord at the Hotel at Portrec does not open Telegrams-A Drive, and its curious Incidents -Dunvegan Castle-The House-Party-A photographic Group to be taken-Liberal Decision of the Bishop-A Week at Sligachan— Negatives taken there in 1877.

IN August, 1876, I was invited by MacLeod of MacLeod to his interesting old place, Dunvegan Castle. Mr. Reginald MacLeod, his second son, had well posted me up with the information necessary for the journey, particularly pressing upon me the importance of, on my leaving London, telegraphing to Ross, the landlord of the Royal Hotel at Portree, for a carriage and horses to meet me there on the arrival of the steamer from Strome Ferry.

In going to and returning from Skye, two railway routes are used which undoubtedly are the most beautiful in Scotland. Probably, of the two, that between Dingwall and Strome Ferry is

entitled to the palm; the second line being that between Oban and Callander.

The Strome Ferry route is viâ Inverness, Beauly, and Dingwall. The scenery is exquisite. During the journey it is necessary to watch both sides of the road, and to do this constantly and sharply, in order that some striking hill or scene should not be passed unobserved. As the train proceeds after leaving Strathpeffer, the picturesqueness of the scenery increases. After emerging from the ravine of the Ravens Rock, mountains come in sight on the right; below, on the left, is the Blackwater, a stream which flows from Loch Garve. No portion of the route is more beautiful than that by this loch.

This

Then the line skirts the margin of Loch Luichart, a beautiful lake formed by the River Conon, the outflow being discharged over a series of cascades, known as the Falls of Conon. loch, and many thousands of acres adjoining, are the property of Louisa Lady Ashburton, whose demesne is a lovely sylvan district, and as perfect in its way as anything on the whole

route.

After passing the River Luichart the railway

goes close to the Falls of Grudie, and then proceeding west, the three peaks of Scuir-na-Vuillin (2,600 feet) are seen on the south, and those of Fionn Bhein (3,060) and the clustered Alps of Loch Fannich on the north.

The country now opens up into the long upland valley of Strathbran. After passing Auchnasheen, the railway crosses the River Sheen, and then winds along the south side of the Led Gown river and the small loch of the same name. Again the route becomes mountainous, and the Allt Gharagain, a considerable stream, is crossed. Here, 32 miles from Dingwall, the summit level of the line is attained, viz., 634 feet above the starting point at the terminus. Passing along the south side of Loch Scaven, the line descends by the side of the infant Carron. The mountains rise close upon the right of the railway, while the stream flows through a deep dell on the left. The line then for some time keeps alongside the public road, passing close by a waterfall and the old Inn of Craig. Here the valley expands into meadow-land, through which the stream is seen meandering, and the hills of Skye come into view.

A few miles farther on is the shooting