CHAPTER XVIII.

A second Visit to Scotland: Again at Cultoquhey-" If I had a Tail I would wag It:" a sad End-Comrie and its Scenery-Earthquakes -Rob Roy's Country-Balquhidder-The Drive from Kingshouse to Callender- Bracklinn Falls - Illustrations of Sir Walter Scott's "Lady of the Lake"-The Trossach District-Another combined Picture-Visit to Mr. Cunliffe-Brooks at Drummond Castle-Two deer-stalking Stories-A Day's Grouse-shooting in October.

ON one of my journeys to Scotland I left King's Cross by the usual night train, which is timed to reach Darlington at 1.56 a.m. When it arrived there I was alone in the compartment and asleep, but as the train slowed into the station I awoke.

There were few people on the platform, and but little light from the station lamps. Close to the door of the carriage stood two men who had the appearance of navvies.

The guard's whistle sounded, and the train was in motion, when these men made a dash at the door and jumped into the compartment with

me. In those days there were no means of signalling to the guard.

Speed was soon attained, and the train was well on its way to Newcastle, the next stoppage, a distance of forty miles. Immediately one of the navvies said he wanted a fight, and would fight me. But, calmly and quietly, I reasoned with him; told him that I was sure he was a kind, good-natured fellow, and that there could be no cause or reason why we should fight. 'Somehow, fortunately for me, my reasoning seemed to impress him, and he put out his great hand and heartily shook mine. In the meantime his mate had gone to sleep, his head resting against the plate-glass window of the carriage. My late antagonist then formed the notion that he would like a dance; so, turning to his companion, he seized him by the hair and knocked his head against the glass until he roused him. Then he insisted upon the latter whistling him a tune, and to the music so supplied the other one danced.

It would not have surprised me if the dancer had driven one of his feet through the bottom of the carriage, so energetic was he. And this went

on for a time that seemed to me very long, but at last, quite exhausted, he fell back into the seat, and in a few moments both men were sound asleep.

When the train arrived at Newcastle I got out, and went in search of the guard, who could barely credit my statement. He, however, came with me to the carriage, and then saw the two men asleep. They were awakened and quickly got out, and I was rid of my unacceptable companions.

I was asked to make a report of the occurrence, but as my time was valuable and I thought I should have to attend the inquiry that might be held, and, further, as I had taken no harm, I declined to interfere.

August, 1866, saw me again at Cultoquhey, working with the camera in the beautiful district between there and St. Fillans. Staying at Cultoquhey at this time was a little fellow six or seven years old-a nephew of the hostess-who occasionally came into the dining-room to dessert. Once he in some measure misbehaved, and was sent out of the room.

Shortly afterwards a young lady asked per

mission to fetch him back.

She returned in a

few minutes alone, and, laughing, said, "Oh, what a funny child Willie is! I asked him if he was not very sorry, and he replied, 'No, I am not; indeed, I feel quite pleased and glad, and if I had a tail I would wag it.""

Poor little fellow!-a few years afterwards he came to a very sad end. He and his sister were crossing a plank over a mill-stream. She fell in, and, crying for help, he rushed to the bank, plunged into the seething water, and succeeded in bearing her up until assistance came. was saved, but he, quite exhausted, was drowned.

She

From Cultoquhey I went to Comrie, with the intention of going to Glenartney, one main object of this visit to Scotland being to obtain a series of negatives for the purpose of illustrating certain passages in Sir Walter Scott's "Lady of the Lake."

It will be remembered that it was in Glenartney where the stag was driven from his lair, and the scene in the opening of the first canto is thus described

"The stag at eve had drunk his fill,

Where danced the moon on Monan's rill

And deep his midnight lair had made
In lone Glenartney's hazel shade;
But when the sun his beacon red

Had kindled on Benvoirlich's head,

The deep-mouthed bloodhound's heavy bay
Resounded up the rocky way,

And faint, from further distance borne,
Were heard the clanging hoof and horn.
As chief who hears his warder call,

To arms! The foemen storm the wall!'
The antlered monarch of the waste

Sprang from his heathery couch with haste."

Canto 1st, i., ii.

Selecting for my first purpose such points in the glen as appeared to illustrate the line

"In lone Glenartney's hazel shade,"

I obtained the negatives that were needed.

Comrie is prettily situated on the north bank of the Earn at its confluence with the Ruchill and Lednock, and is the centre of very beautiful scenery. Staying there several days, I was able to make myself well acquainted with its many

attractions.

About a mile to the north of Comrie the river Lednock descends through a wild ravine, where a turbulent stream, overhung by broken, impending