times that may be a month or two earlier or later than would best suit your wishes. Not many came from distant islands, because of scarcity of boats, and another reason was the destitution of the people after the great storm. The delegate system is not in vogue here; therefore any member in good standing is privileged to take part in the deliberations, and to vote.

As in America, the Sunday-school convention preceded the conference, and at eight o'clock on the morning of the fifth we assembled in the little chapel, with General Superintendent Tapu in the chair. There was not a great deal of new business to come before the convention, but among other things was to be the selecting of two division superintendents, and it was thought best

to elect the same ones chosen by the conference, which was to follow, as presidents of the divisions. It was thought to be necessary to call together the convention at the close of the conference, and attend to that work, but some one moved that the choice of the conference be the choice of the convention as superintendents of the two divisions, but the motion was lost by a large majority. "How can we elect them now, and not know their names?" "Who will you elect at the close of the conference?"

"The ones chosen by the conference."

"Then why not say so now, and save calling the convention together again?"

"How can we, we don't know who they will be?"

At the next session after conference, those two were selected without a dissenting voice.

Questions are always discussed before the motion is made, and many times, for quite a while afterwards, each one being so much in earnest that a new comer among them would think they were all ready to come to blows. We have the "talking negation" with us, as well as in America. In fact, we have all the peculiar freaks of a general conference.

The afternoon was devoted to the "Oaoa," and the house was filled to overflowing, many outsiders being present. The time was occupied with recitations from the Bible, Book of Mormon, and Doctrine and Covenants; whole chapters being recited in a singsong voice, and so fast that any one not a native would not catch a word. There were many hymns, purely native, and some that were quite well rendered. There is always a rivalry between the companies from different islands, and on these occasions it is especially manifest. There was one company from Amanu that kept us continually laughing. Their leader was a natural clown, and although you might not understand a word he said, it was laughable to see him, with his long black coat buttoned tight, his hand between two buttons over his breast, as great orators are often pictured; and to see him turn round and round, like a peacock, was mirth-provoking indeed.

"Friends, I want you to take a good look at this little company of mine, see how small they are, just little things; but they can sing; just listen to them. This one, especially, see how small he is [a six-footer], listen for his voice." All this, in a strong, well-modulated voice that was befitting the star performer of the day.

I will give you an idea of the introductory remarks of most speakers. The following is the rule, and not the exception:

"Eho'ma, te mau taeae e te mau tuahine, tae noa 'tu to tatou huaai tamarii, tamarii tamaroa, tamarii tamahine, tae noa 'tu to tatou mau taata tupu, te tane e te vahine, ia ora na tatou atoa mai te ioa o Iesu Mesia, te tumu o to tatou ora; amene."

"Friends, brethren and sisters, reaching unto our children, children boys, children girls, reaching unto our neighbors, the man and the woman, may we all have life in the name of Jesus Christ, the source of our life. Amen."

An elders' court was appointed by the conference to try about fifty of our membership for teaching and practicing false doctrine, such as going to the bush in companies of men, women, and children, and spending the night there in prayer, seeking for the gifts, dreams, visions, prophecy, and tongues.

As the trial proceeded, the leaders would accuse us of trying to turn them out of the church because they fasted and prayed and exercised the gifts of the gospel. This charge would be repeated over and over again by each speaker on their side of the question. We tried to show them that they were being deceived by the evil spirit and that they were not being tried for any good work, but rather because of the extremes to which they carried on some parts of the work to the exclusion of others, and further that they were causing a division in the church. It was very sad, indeed, to see those that had always been considered among the brightest minds

and best living Saints of all the mission, so deluded, and, withal, so stubborn.

Not much else of importance was transacted at this conference, with the exception that it was decided to build a wall around the land at Tarona, and fill in to some extent. According to past experiences, I am afraid it will be a long time in the future before the work is completed.

Conference over, arrangements were made for wife and me to go to the low islands, or the Tuamotu group. We were to sail within a week or two on a trim two-masted vessel, newly fitted with gasoline power. I had a look at the accommodations, and was very much. pleased with the prospects of a trip aboard her. "Man proposes and God disposes," and it was not so to be; we were not to have the best vessel of all for this trip. When within a few days of the appointed time for sailing, the owners of the vessel sent word to me that they would make a trip to the westward first, and that it would be at least a month later when we would leave for the Tuamotus. As that would make our start quite late in the season, I began looking about for another chance to go, and found a vessel, owned and manned by natives, that was to leave soon, and hastened to see the man, an American, who had chartered the vessel. He agreed to take us at what I then thought was a very reasonable price, much cheaper than would the other vessel, consequently was congratulating myself on the way we seemed to be favored, and the prospect of reaching the islands so early in the season. After numerous postponements, we were towed out of the harbor, and started on our journey.

One day out was enough to teach us that we had better have waited for the vessel with power; we were becalmed, and for three days did not get out of sight of the mountain peaks of Tahiti. Perhaps some of my readers have been becalmed at sea, and can sympathize with us; if you have not, I hope you never may be. For the first time in the writer's experience he was seasick, and not because of the roughness of the sea either; but to hear the constant rattle of the blocks, the flap of the sails, and to feel the rolling, pitching, whirling, and churning motion of the vessel under me, was more than I could stand. The fourth day out brought a breeze, and it seemed to blow away all my troubles at the same time. How exhilarating it is to sail with a steady breeze, when you can have all sails set; no symptoms of seasickness with me then; no difference how high the waves may run, we were going.

Towards evening we passed Makatea, going quite near the shore. We had a good view of the high cliffs, and as I looked upon the peculiar looking rock, I was curious to know what caused that broad tableland to be raised two hundred or more feet above sea level. It does not have the appearance of volcanic rock, and I am sure it is not coral. What is it? I would have been glad of the opportunity to examine it more closely. Have since learned that while I did not know what it was, I had formed a pretty good idea as to what it was not. Just now speculators are very anxious to purchase any part of that island, and would be only too glad to control the whole of it, for when landed in America or England it is worth

all the way from twenty to thirty dollars a ton, both for the soil and the rock. The soil is guano, and the rock is phosphate.

In the remote ages of the past, that island was similar to the other low coral islands about it, but the sea birds, possibly some extinct species, chose to make that their resting- and breedingground, and who can estimate the countless millions there must have been, and who knows where they are now? As the guano accumulated, the action of the salt water upon it formed a hard, rocklike substance, that, when pulverized, makes the best of fertilizers.

For hundreds of years men have lived on a mountain of gold, as it were, and never realized that it was of any more value than the sands of the seashore. Nor do they now realize its value, for many have contracted to sell their portion for but twenty cents a ton, and have accepted money in advance from the speculators with which to build themselves nice frame houses, that will rest finally upon the bare coral rock but a few feet above the sea, with no trees or any growing thing about them. If they would only buy a home for themselves in Tahiti, it would not make so much difference whether they saved any money or not, they would always have a home at least. It is estimated that it will take but fifteen years in which to take away the whole island. We are expecting to visit that island on our way to Tahiti, and I may learn other items of interest at that time.

We soon left Makatea in the rear, and the next island sighted was Rairoa, where we were to stop long enough for the ship's boat to go ashore. The wind had been blowing for about twenty-four hours, and quite a sea was running, so that it was quite exciting to see them launch the boat. The vessel tacked back and forth for about two hours, and it became very tiresome indeed, yet not nearly so wearisome as was the calm of the few days previous. When the boat was finally aboard, and we had started for Kaukura, the wind was blowing a gale and dead ahead, so that it took us as long to get out of sight of Rairoa, as it had to leave Tahiti. While the waves were probably no more than fifteen to twenty feet high from hollow to crest, I can understand why they are generally spoken of as "running mountain high." We were five days beating our way about seventy-five miles, with occasional showers that drove us below into the foul cabin, where bales of cloth, boxes, and chests were piled promiscuously, so that it was necessary to climb or fall over them to get to our single bunk, which we two were expected to occupy. Every crevice and crack which might possibly admit some fresh air would be closed tight, and if I should protest, the captain would point to the companion-way and say, "plenty of air comes in there," but when I looked that way, it would be to see one of the crew sitting in it smoking a cigarette.

It was surprising how many of the crew were permitted to sleep in the cabin, and when it would rain for an hour or two and keep us all confined there, ours was not like the proverbial "bed of roses," yet similar to one in a hot house, well fertilized. Had the captain permitted, I think we would have preferred the deck, rain or no rain.