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tions still remain of the superior mind || Majesty. The dedication is so pleasthat once reigned over it. The viewing, and speaks so much, that we from the principal apartments em- cannot do better than conclude the braces this sweet little lawn, filled article with it. with luxuriant flowering shrubs, bounded on the one side by trees and shrubs of a powerful growth, intermixed with the holly and the rose, that finely group with the sombre tints of the evergreens. On the other side is seen, beneath some fine elms, the silvery Thames winding its silent way. A sequestered walk of singular beauty, formed by the overhanging wood, leads to a wicket that communicates with Grove - House, the property and occasional residence of the Princess at the time she held the cottage. It is a pretty monastic edifice, standing on the verge of Old Windsor church-yard.

In our Repository for March of last year, we had occasion to notice many ingenious works, with some original designs of great merit, at Frogmore, by the Princess Elizabeth. Among others, is a classical work, "The Power and Progress of Genius," consisting of a series of etchings by herself, and dedicated to her

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"The etchings that are now laid at your Majesty's feet would never have been executed, if many of those who looked over the drawings had not wished them to be published: but that, my dearest mother, you will see was impossible; for it would have opened a door to much criticism, which in every situation is unpleasant, and particularly in ours. therefore undertook to do them myself, as they might then pass unnoticed, and protected in the pleasantest manner to me by one whose affections would kindly pardon the faults of the head of the inventor-I trust those of the heart will never be known by you, as its first wish has ever been to prove grateful for those tered and improved; and if they meet talents which you have so tenderly fosthe approbation of those friends who will have them, believe me I shall feel that the merit will be less mine than yours, who have occasioned them to be brought forward. I remain, with the greatest respect, your dutiful and affectionate daughter,

STOKE-FARM,

THE SEAT OF THE EARL OF SEFTON.

Tis charming residence may be truly termed a fermé ornée. Its situation is favourable, and nature has been so far only assisted as to permit its natural beauties to spread over the demesne in uninterrupted ease. The woods, shrubberies, and gardens, immediately about the house, are so judiciously arranged as to present many interesting points of view; laying the house partially open to the south, and screening it completely to the north and east, on

“ELIZABETH.”

which side the offices are situated and planted out, with the exception of some portions, that add to the general effect of the entire scene.

Our View is of the Front from the lawn, on which side are some of the principal apartments, elegantly fitted up, the windows extending to the floor, forming door-ways, that open beneath a spacious verandah, along which flowering shrubs twine in rich luxuriance, exhibiting, when seen from the apartments, natural festoons

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of the richest colours. The lawn in front is so judiciously laid out with evergreens intermixed with deciduous shrubs, that the greater portion is embellished with rich foliage in the winter season: combined with the verandah, or rather corridor, it forms a pleasing winter walk.

Here is a small park of about forty acres, through which there is a pleasant drive to the lodge, which is pretty and chaste. It is rendered pleasing by the deep thatched roof, which, overhanging the dwelling, forms a pretty rustic colonnade. The

supports are unbarked stems of trees, around which grow the rose and the jessamine.

The estate was purchased by the late Lord Sefton of a Mr. Johnson. The house was then a mere farm, but served as an occasional residence. The whole of the alterations, both in the house and grounds, have been effected by the present noble owner; and they have been guided by such taste and judgment, that Stoke-Farm now forms as delightful a retreat as can be desired,

FLUCTUATIONS IN THE FASHION OF HATS.
TO THE EDITOR, &c.

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hundred years. I have commenced of course with France, because, as every body knows, that sprightly nation has led the modes since Europe first emerged from barbarism, it would be an injustice not to give her the preference. I have compressed this beginning of my undertaking into as brief a space as possible, for the purpose of offering it to your acceptance, since I am desirous to see what reception it will meet with from the public, before I set about completing my voluminous undertaking. By inserting this sketch, Mr. Editor, you will give my work a fair chance; and as a recompence for your politeness, I shall have the honour of dedicating it to you, as soon as it makes its appearance in at least twenty-five volumes folio. I am, sir, your constant reader and very hum

SIR, So much has been said and written by you lords of the creation, to shew that women are incessantly changing the fashion of their clothes, that one would imagine your own modes were really stationary; that is to say, in ancient times, for certainly the beaux of the present day alter the shape of their garments nearly, if not quite, as often as the belles; and I believe, if we were inclined to do you the favour you have so often done us, that is, to trace the changes in your dress for some centuries back, they would be found to have been as frequent as our own. As I have a great deal of leisure, and also some taste for these researches, I shall perhaps some time or other give the public an account of the various changes which have taken place in male costume during the last thou-ble servant, sand years or so. I have already commenced this grand undertaking, and, beginning with the covering for the head, I have traced the various forms of the hat for more than eight

TERENTIA TRACEMODE.

CHAPEAU.

The first covering that we find regularly used for the head by the

French was called chaperon; it seems to have been a kind of hood attached to the robe, and ornamented with a very long tail. Some whimsical people took a fancy to roll this tail round their heads; a fashion which did not meet with general approbation, and which was the cause that the tail was retrenched altogether.

As those élégans who had a fancy for the queue were determined not to wear chaperons without them, they invented a new kind of headdress for themselves, which was known by the appellation of bonnet, and which differed from the chaperon only in the height, each being made of the same material, which were cloths of different kinds and velvet. It could be thrown back by means of strings. We see models of these head-dresses in the coats of arms of cardinals, archbishops, and bishops. In a little time the bonnet assumed a new form and a new name: it was called barrette, because of the seams which divided it into compartments.

When a foreign clergyman is promoted to the rank of cardinal, it is said that the pope has given him the cardinal's hat; but in reality it is the cap or barrette, which his holiness sends to the sovereign from whose dominion the cardinal is chosen. A cardinal can receive the hat only from the hands of the pope himself,

About the year 1180, in the reign of Philip Augustus, an alteration took place in the form of the bonnet, which then began to be worn with a brim all round.

Louis IX. (St. Louis) introduced the fashion of hats with large brims turned up.

Philip III. (the Bold) brought in the fashion of wearing a large calotte,

that is, a kind of skull-cap, with a very small-brimmed hat placed on one side.

What may be properly called the chapeau bras was first introduced into France in the reign of Charles le Bel: they were composed of felt, and carried in the hand.

The form of the hat under Philip de Valois is exactly similar to that of the English coal-porter's hat of the present day: its large brim was turned up in front, and was attached to the dress behind.

In the year 1341, three different sorts of hats were worn, under the names of chaperons, bonnets, and chapeaux.

Under Jean II. (the Good) the crown of the hat was very high, and the brim extremely small. Some of these hats were ornamented with feathers.

Until the time of Charles V. hats had been used only by distinguished people, but in his reign they became

common.

The hat of Charles VI. was of the helmet form.

Twenty years afterwards we find that the brim of the hat was cut in points.

Henri le Bon, the Duke of Anjou, generally wore a bonnet; Louis XI. his uncle, wore a very small-brimmed felt hat, over a large calotte. The chapeau in the days of Charles VIII. was ornamented with a panache.

The head-dress of Louis XII. was a cap, the top of which was almost flat, and trimmed with fur. The lords of the court wore caps or hats with high crowns, and brims more or less broad, but always turned up.

Francis I. introduced the singular fashion of adorning the brim of the hat with the coat of arms of the

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