Tribune that we found in camp. From this we learn of the death of President Polk, Mrs. Madison, Mr. Ogden, and others; and that the cholera has been raging in the United States. This camp is nine miles from San Diego. Spending an hour at the camp, we rode on and arrived in the afternoon at San Diego. The carpenter of the surveying commission, as soon as we arrived, invited us to his tent, giving free access to every thing he had, and the name of Moses M. Conner will always be remembered with peculiar satisfaction.

REPORT OF DR. JOHN A. VEATCH ON CERROS OR
CEDROS ISLAND.

CERROS OR CEDROS ISLAND.

LOOKING at a chart of the coast of Lower California, about midway betwixt Cape San Lucas and San Diego, fronting the great bay of San Sebastian Viscaino, the island of Cerros, or Cedros, will be observed, between the parallels of 28° and 29° N. (See Appendix K.) In Lippincott's Gazetteer its position is given as in latitude 28° 12′ N. and longitude 115° 29′ W. The point assumed is probably that of the well-known watering-place on the east side of the island, about one-third its length from the southern end. It is correctly laid down on the old Spanish charts, and was doubtless visited by the early explorers of the coast more than 250 years ago. The remains of rude huts along the shore, and occasionally in the interior, probably mark some of their temporary sojourning-places.

The bay was named after Don Sebastian Viscaino, who was sent by the Viceroy of Mexico, Don Gaspar Zuniga, in the year 1602, to survey the coast of Lower California. Cedros lies immediately west of the bay, and forms, with the island of Natividad, a kind of enclosure for the southern portion of it. It is about thirty miles in length, due north and south, commencing in a narrow but lofty and precipitous headland at the north, and gradually expanding to a breadth of about eighteen miles at the southern extremity, with an average width of

ten miles.

From the extreme southeastern portion of the island, to Point San Eugenio on the mainland, is a distance of twenty miles. About midway lies the barren sandstone island of Natividad, above named, five miles in length, pointing east and west, and some half mile in width. It is about six hundred feet in height. Its position serves as a barrier to the southern winds and waves, thus aiding Cerros and Point San Eugenio to fence in, so to speak, the southern part of the bay. This sheltered condition and the fresh water on Cerros attracting passing vessels, may account for the early correct knowledge of this portion of the coast; while the magnificent bay of Magdalena, much farther south, remained almost unknown, until Sir Edward Belcher, in 1839, and Du Petit Thouars, about the same time, surveyed and published charts of it. The eastern side of the island has long been a place of resort for whalers and coasting-vessels as a watering-place. A more comfortable and convenient point for the purpose could hardly be found. A spring of water, not exceeding thirty feet from the margin of the sea, with an anchorage scarcely a cable's length away, protected from the prevailing winds, with scarce a ripple on the surface, renders the filling and taking on board of casks an easy task.

I spent the months of June, July, and August, in the year 1859, on this island. The object was to search for minerals, especially copper ores. It was believed, from some cause or other, that a very large vein of the latter ore, of great richness, existed somewhere on the island. No nearer designation of the locality than "somewhere on the island" could be obtained. The evidences were, however, sufficient to induce a few capitalists of San Francisco to fit out an expedition to find the coveted treasure. I engaged to conduct the exploration. The following observations I gathered during my three months' labors :

TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGICAL FORMATION.

THE general appearance of the island is broken and rugged in the extreme. The sombre and pensive grandeur of its barren peaks attracts in a forcible manner the attention of passing voyagers. On a near approach to the eastern side, the naked granitic cliffs of the north, and the broken, upheaved, and contorted slate strata of the south, present striking and interesting features. The whole island at a little distance presents the look as if a collection of mountain-peaks had been compressed together and planted by the Titans amid the restless

sea-waves.

On reaching the field of operations, I spent the first few days in examining the east side of the island in a whale-boat, landing at practicable points, and clambering into the interior. The topography was slowly developed, and a degree of order found in the seeming inextricable confusion. Three parallel mountain-ranges, in close proximity with each other, cross the island diagonally from the southwest to the northeast. Toward their centre, and thence to› their eastern terminus, the ranges culminate in several sharp peaks, and finally terminate in abrupt precipices, descending perpendicularly into the waters of the bay. The most southerly

of the series is the least elevated. It commences at the south end of the island-about the centre-and forms the east side of South Bay. Its formation is of slate, shale, and sandstone, portions of which are highly fossiliferous, and present an attractive field to the paleontologist. The axis and western side of the range are highly metamorphosed-the fossils being found only on the eastern side. Masses of serpentine, associated with chromic iron, are found at several points on this range.

The second range commences at and forms the southwest extremity of the island as well as the southwest side of South Bay. It is a bold basaltic headland-a huge truncated cone, regular as an artificial structure when seen from a distance, but rough and ragged in surface on a closer view. It is about eight hundred feet high. In a short description of the island, published soon after my return, I called this remarkable promontory "Mount Lent," after William M. Lent, of San Francisco, of the firm of Lent, Sherwood & Co., under whose auspices the expedition was mainly fitted out. From this origin the range proceeds northeasterly with considerably less elevation, in a sharply-serrated ridge, a distance of some six miles, when it ascends rapidly in height and forms the three peaks, the most southerly of the quintuple group seen by passing ships. The one nearest the northern termination of the range, viz., near the east side of the island, was found by barometric measurement to be about 3,600 feet above the sea-level. I named it "Mount Ayres," after Dr. William O. Ayres, Corresponding Secretary of the California Academy of Natural Sciences. It is the highest peak on the island, except one in the northern range. I give the height as an approximation. The observations I directed to be made with an aneroid at the station camp, near the sea-level, during my examination of the peaks, were so far neglected as to give little or no aid in correcting my own observations.

This chain is mostly basaltic, with metamorphic slate and hornblende rock. Serpentine, with heavy masses of chromic iron, is to be found at intervals along the whole range. I have designated it as the middle or Mount Ayres Range.

The third or northern range rises on the west and runs in the same oblique direction to the eastern side of the island. The axis of this range gradually assumes a more northern direction, and finally terminates at, and forms the north end of the island-an enormous precipice of probably two thousand feet in height.

There are three peaks on this range, one of which I estimated to be two hundred feet higher than Mount Ayres. The formation is granite, porphyry, and basalt. Many curious and interesting features exist. In one place a group of basaltic pillars occurs. They are mostly pentagonal, of from four to six inches on the side; they dip about 45° to the south. The base of the mountain at one point is a dark-colored porphyry, much diked by a lightercolored rock of the same character. Toward the summit the latter overspreads the first entirely, and forms the crest of one of the peaks. The island partakes of the volcanic and igneous character of the adjacent mainland.

The Mount Ayres and north ranges are separated by two ravines heading close together near the centre of the island and running to opposite sides, one to the east and the other to the west. These ravines form an easy passway across the island. That on the east expands into a kind of valley, half a mile wide at the mouth. It is designated as Dearing's Gulch or Valley-named for Captain R. N. Dearing, well known on the Pacific coast as a whaling commander. Up this valley or ravine and down the opposite gulch there is an easy passway from one side to the other of the island. The dividing ridge is about 1,500 feet high. A good road might be made, with very little expense, up Dearing's Valley to the summit, the grade being very regular and gradual. A grove of pines crowns the crest of the third range, and almost overhangs the right side of the valley, about three and a half miles up it. On the left side opposite there are good springs of water. There is a fine landing-place, and the schooner Odd Fellow, Captain Howes, lay at anchor near the shore during part of our stay. There are several other landing-places between this and the north end of the island. Wherever ravines have broken through the front wall, comfortable landings can be effected. A large ravine, six miles north of Dearing's Valley, affords good water, less than a mile from the shore. Indeed, springs occur in nearly every ravine; all about on the same level, say six hundred or eight hundred feet above the sca. Toward the north end these springs become brackish, and farther on intensely salt. This is to be regretted, as at the extreme north there is probably a valuable lode of gold, if not several of them. Of this I shall have occasion to speak further on.

THE terms "rough and broken" might be applied to the southern extremity, and convey some idea of the actual condition; but the addition of " craggy and precipitous" would convey but a faint notion of the confused jumbling of sharp ridges, deep ravines with perpendicular walls, high peaks and beetling cliffs, of the northern portion of the island.

The southeasterly portion, flanking the first range, is far less rough and much more accessible than any other part. By means of the ravines that open into the sea the summit of the range can easily be reached. This is important, as the ravines have laid bare many masses of chromic iron, which might be transported along their beds to the shore. This

condition of surface extends on the east side up to the ships' watering-place. Beyond that, north, especially above Dearing's Valley, is found the utter confusion above described. The existence of numerous deep ravines excavated in the solid rock, and that cut and score the mountain-sides from near their summits to the sea-shore, deepening and widening as they descend, puzzled me greatly at first to account for their formation. They were evidently water-worn, and presented the appearance of the channels of our California rivers, where they cut through the solid rocks of the slope of the Sierra Nevada. Such streams certainly never existed on the island; how, then, were these ravines made? It soon became apparent that the sea itself had formed them as the island was gradually uplifted. The immense quantities of boulders and rounded pebbles of every size, hurled by each wave against the face of the perpendicular cliffs, wear them irregularly, as they present a harder or softer surface. A slight cavity once made has its floor covered with heavy pebbles at each lift of the sea, which roll back as the wave retires, thus scouring and wearing with neverceasing action. As the shore is gradually upheaved, a ravine is the result. This excavating process can be seen actually at work now in numerous spots on the east side. Some of the ravines have just been commenced; others are a few yards in length, just lifting their heads above the sea; while others again stretch away to near the summit; while tons of stones are forever swept in and out with a growling, melancholy sound, deepening and widening their mouths.

These ravines attest the gradual upheaval of the island. There are other sea-marks disconnected with any ravines, proving the same fact. On the side of Mount Ayres, two thousand feet high, a horizontal water-worn line is to be traced, once marking the water level. At that period the peaks alone were above the surface, presenting a cluster of rocky islets.

There are proofs, too, of the alternations of depressions and upheavals. At one point near the middle of the island the stratification of the slate stands perpendicular, but much bent and contorted, rising out of the sea some fifty or one hundred feet in elevation. On that is laid an immense mass of perfectly horizontal slates, many hundred feet in thickness. The same thing occurs on the mainland at San Bartolomé Bay, a little south of Point Eugenio.

BAYS AND HARBORS.

SOUTH BAY, in the southwest extremity of the island, is the only bay of importance. It is formed, as before stated, by the projection of the first and second ranges at their southern extremities into the sea, holding the bay betwixt them. It is a snug, quiet place, sheltered from the prevailing winds, but open to southwest blows, which, however, I am informed do not often occur. There are seven fathoms of water up close to the shore. The anchorage is excellent. There are a few rocks covered at high tide, rendering caution necessary in entering. The shore is a shelving, sandy beach, and was, in the palmy days of sea-elephant hunting, a great slaughtering-ground. Many interesting shells are found here. The Chinese visit the bay for the purpose of collecting abelone shells and preparing their flesh. From the number of stone huts on its margin, having, many of them, a very antiquated appearance, I judge this bay to have been the recipient of protracted visits for many years back.

I observed head-boards marking the graves of several New Bedford seamen, I suppose from whaling-ships. There are no bays or harbors of any kind on the west side of the island. The northwest winds, and the waves they raise, beat forever against the rock-bound shore, fringing with a line of surf the entire length of the island.

The eastern side of the island is one great harbor its entire length. Sir Edward Belcher speaks of the importance of Magdalena Bay as a point from which the coast of Mexico and California could be observed in case of a war. Cerros Island and the bay of Viscaino would, doubtless, be far more eligible for such a purpose, as the harbor would admit of ingress or egress with any wind.

The anchorage is excellent everywhere, especially toward the south. The water is generally as smooth on the surface as a small lake. There was no day during my stay that a small boat might not have been sculled ashore by a single man from a vessel lying in the harbor, without risk or danger from the surf.

On the shore side of the bay of Viscaino, opposite Cerros, is the entrance to Scammon's Lagoon. The whaling-ground and the salt-fields to which it leads have rendered it a point of no inconsiderable importance. I cannot do better than to introduce Captain Scammon's notes on this as well as the Ballenas Lagoon, and on the coast of Lower California generally. These notes were kindly placed at my disposal, together with the accompanying charts and sailing directions, not heretofore published. These notes and charts give the only reliable information in detail of this part of the coast. Captain Scammon's observations are as follows:

"Scammon's Lagoon was first commercially and geographically known in the year 1855. The entrance is wide enough to afford a beating channel for vessels of 200 or 300 tons, that do not draw more than 12 feet. There are three fathoms at high water in ordinary tides on the bar, and the channel is so plainly marked by the line of breakers on the south side, there is no difficulty in sailing in. After once entering the true channel, vessels of 400

1

tons, drawing 15 feet, have passed the bar in safety going in, but have been obliged to wait a fair wind out again.

"I have beat out over the bar twice in rough weather, without difficulty, in a ship of 300 tons, drawing 12 feet. Vessels now run regularly between San Francisco and this lagoon, bringing return-cargoes of salt, which they procure at the head of the lagoon, from natural salt-ponds-an almost inexhaustible uantity.

"Both Scammon's and Ballenas Lagoons are fronted by low sand-hills, and shoal water extends a long way off shore. If bound for Scammon's Lagoon, the land should be approached within two or three miles, in latitude about 28° 41 N. Keep the coast aboard, if clear weather, and run along the southward, where you will see 'Lagoon-head.' It makes like an island; steer a course to pass a mile to the westward, and if near night you may anchor under Lagoon-head, and await daylight, when, with the accompanying chart as a guide, there is no difficulty in finding the entrance and passing the bar with a commanding breeze.

"Ballenas Lagoon is situated near the head of the open bay of Ballenas, in latitude 26° 40′ N. and longitude 113° 15′ W. This lagoon was first geographically known in the year 1860. In the month of December, 1860, a fleet of four whaling-vessels, under my command, passed the bar and entered the lagoon in safety. We entered by the North Channel, which is not more than half a cable's length wide; and 12 feet of water is all that can be depended on in crossing the bar at high water with average tides; but where the shoalest is, there is but little or no swell. In the South Channel there is 15 feet of water at high tide, but much more swell. The only safe way we found to pass the bar of this lagoon was, first to sound out the channel and put buoys at convenient distances apart in mid-channel. South Channel is about the same width as the North, and the distance across the bar is not more than a cable's length.

"Neither of these channels would be of any practical use, if it were not for the certainty of the strong land and sea breezes which make a fair wind to pass either in or out of the lagoon. "In the months of December and January, and a part of February, north and northeast winds prevail, which destroy the heavy ocean-swell that prevails at other seasons of the year. During the smooth season there is but little difficulty in sounding the channel with boats, and placing buoys as you please. Neither wood nor water can be procured at this place. A ranchero,' who lived eighteen miles inland, furnished the vessels with plenty of cattle to kill for beef. The price was usually about sixteen dollars for a bullock. From the head of this lagoon to the east coast of the peninsula-to the shore of the Gulf of California—is only about 40 miles; and we frequently had people from Loreto and to visit the vessel for the purpose of trade, bringing dried figs, dates, and the wild oranges of the country, to exchange for bread, flour, and clothing."

NOTES ON THE COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.

"IN sailing along the coast of Lower California, I have always made it a rule to never run a ship through thick kelp before sounding it. By adopting this plan I avoided all hidden dangers, for the space of eight years, which time I was almost constantly cruising close along the shores and in the bays or lagoons adjacent.

Formerly there was a great deal of kelp along the coast, but from some cause in 1861 it almost entirely disappeared, and up to the spring of 1863 had not grown again to any extent. "Deeming the information might possibly be worth the reading, the following remarks are

made:

"From San Martin's Island to San Geronimo Island, which lie north and south, and south of the port of San Quentin, there are many shoal places, and rocks, which are not laid down on any charts of the present day. Off San Quentin, bearing about south by compass, distance five or six miles, a rock or shoal exists that the sea breaks heavily upon in moderately rough weather. Much foul ground is found between San Geronimo Island and the mainland. Rocks exist in the passage betwixt the islands of Cerros and Natividad, but nothing that will bring a ship up till near the shore on either side. The passage between Natividad and the main should not be attempted by those unacquainted, as it is known that one ship has been seriously injured by striking a rock in going through in the night.

"At Cerros Island, at the east side, near the southeast end, there is a small stream of water coming from the side of a mountain, near the base and running close to the beach. From 1,200 to 1,500 gallons of water may be procured during 24 hours' time. The casks are filled by rolling them to the upper side of the beach, and laying a spout from the stream to the bung-hole of the cask. The water is difficult to find, and the only sure way of finding it is to begin near the southeast point of the island, and search the shore carefully to the northward till it is found. Directly abreast of the watering-place it is deep water close to the shore; 20 to 25 fathoms would not be more than two cables' length from the beach.

"About half a mile to the southward the land is quite low, close to the shore, and low land extends back some distance. It is fronted by a gravel beach. Here good anchorage may be had in 17 to 20 fathoms. There are no hidden dangers on the east side of Cerros, and, with the usually westerly winds, it is generally calm and smooth at the anchorage. At times when the winds get to the south of west, which is not often, heavy nillies blow from the mountains.